Go Back   Aquarium Advice - Aquarium Forum Community > Saltwater and Reef > Saltwater Reef Aquaria
Click Here to Login

Join Aquarium Advice Today
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on AquariumAdvice.com
 
Old 07-19-2015, 11:03 AM   #1
Aquarium Advice Addict
 
dmolavi's Avatar


 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Sewell, NJ
Posts: 2,123
Sump build questions

I have had to resize my sump due to space contraints. The new size is 15 gallons, vs the 20 gallon original. From a size standpoint, the only difference is the new one is 4 inches shorter than the old (length and width are the same). I have a few questions though:

1. How far down into the sump should the drainpipes extend? Obviously they need to be below the waterline, but how far below?
2. How do I set the waterline? Is it based on the drain pipe depth, flow rate of the return (a Sicce Silent 3.0, with approx 4ft head), baffles, etc?

(I know I need to leave enough room in the sump to handle the volume of water in the overflow box plus the pipe.)

WRT the return line, I'm going to run that up and over the lip and down into the tank. I'm guessing I should drill a small hole in the top of the line under the waterline to act as a siphon break in case my return pump fails, correct? How big is a "small" hole (I'm thinking 1/8 inch or less).

I'm using the BeanAnimal overflow, hence the 3 drainpipes. See the attached for progress pics:






__________________

__________________
20 gallon nano-reef torn down to make way for the 40B Reef (original thread and current update).
dmolavi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2015, 11:57 AM   #2
Aquarium Advice Addict

POTM Champion
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Southern Cali
Posts: 1,734
Yes, you control the water level in the sump sections by how high the baffles are.
Your drains don't have to be under the water level, but it will help sound wise. I would think at least a few inches off the bottom.


You should have it so the drains are full open and the return pump can pump a higher volume of water than is draining. Then use a ball valve or similar valve to adjust the return flow and that is how you "balance" it.


I would strongly recommend getting a quality check valve on the return line and not rely on a vent hole to save you if power goes out. I went that route for a while but compared to a simple check valve, it's a royal pain and not as reliable.
Get a check valve, you'll sleep better at night...LOL
__________________

__________________
PB_Smith is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2015, 12:02 PM   #3
Aquarium Advice Addict
 
dmolavi's Avatar


 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Sewell, NJ
Posts: 2,123
Yeah I was thinking of a check valve. I was thinking of using 1" flex vinyl tubing for the return line w/ a check valve in line.

Would this sump design still be valid for the 15 (it was originally intended for the 20):


Note that my emergency overflow is going into the center section (if that one needs to be used, I don't care if it's skimmed or not, I just need the water out of the DT. Also, I'll be using a BRS mini reactor w/ carbon and Phosguard in there as well.
__________________
20 gallon nano-reef torn down to make way for the 40B Reef (original thread and current update).
dmolavi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2015, 12:16 PM   #4
Aquarium Advice Addict
 
dmolavi's Avatar


 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Sewell, NJ
Posts: 2,123
Just to be complete, here's the equipment that will be in the sump:
- Skimmer - Eshopps PSK-75 (uses Sicce SE-200 pump, 357gph)
- BRS mini-reactor (uses Cobalt MJ-1200 pump, 295 gph)
- Sicce Silent 3.0 return pump (714 gph max, adjustable)

I just want to make sure I get my baffle heights and compartment sizes correct. The sump dimensions are 24x12x12.

Edit to add: I'm thinking that perhaps a 2 chamber design would work better than a 3 chamber design here. I'm not going to have any lighting underneath, so no fuge. My goal for the sump is to hold all the filtration, heater etc...
__________________
20 gallon nano-reef torn down to make way for the 40B Reef (original thread and current update).
dmolavi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2015, 02:27 PM   #5
Aquarium Advice FINatic
 
Reefing Madness's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: AZ
Posts: 577
No check valves should be used, they can fail, then you'd be in trouble.
What is a sump? | Melev's Reef
__________________
Reefing Madness Tank Pics
Reefing Madness is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2015, 03:10 PM   #6
Aquarium Advice Addict

POTM Champion
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Southern Cali
Posts: 1,734
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reefing Madness View Post
No check valves should be used, they can fail, then you'd be in trouble.
What is a sump? | Melev's Reef
then a check valve and an anti-siphon hole would be the best solution.
redundancy is always good.
__________________
PB_Smith is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2015, 03:27 PM   #7
Aquarium Advice FINatic
 
Reefing Madness's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: AZ
Posts: 577
If you say so.
__________________
Reefing Madness Tank Pics
Reefing Madness is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2015, 03:42 PM   #8
Aquarium Advice Addict

POTM Champion
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Southern Cali
Posts: 1,734
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reefing Madness View Post
If you say so.
no, logic and physics dictates that it would be overall safer than either solution alone.
__________________
PB_Smith is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2015, 03:45 PM   #9
Aquarium Advice FINatic
 
Reefing Madness's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: AZ
Posts: 577
No logic would not dictate that, check valves are not recommended to be used in overflow for sumps nor returns, period, not for back up or primary. More than one anti siphon holes is recommended.
__________________
Reefing Madness Tank Pics
Reefing Madness is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2015, 04:25 PM   #10
Aquarium Advice Addict

POTM Champion
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Southern Cali
Posts: 1,734
I guess you don't know how logic or physics work.


Who in the world would put a check valve on the overflow/drain?
it would be utterly pointless and you mentioning it greatly calls into question whether you have any idea what your talking about.


I've seen lots of recommendations to use check valves and redundancy in these systems is always desirable.
__________________

__________________
PB_Smith is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
build, question, questions, sump

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on AquariumAdvice.com

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sump tank questions gor 135g build. Jonnypro Saltwater Reef Aquaria 2 04-22-2013 08:17 AM
135 build sump questions Jonnypro Saltwater & Reef - Getting Started 2 04-21-2013 05:12 PM
220G reef build, sump and stand build ShadowNoob DIY Projects 20 06-10-2012 09:23 PM
55g sump build questions Sgoodwin3 Saltwater & Reef - Getting Started 6 05-26-2012 12:03 AM
220G reef build, sump and stand build ShadowNoob DIY Projects 0 05-14-2012 02:59 AM







» Photo Contest Winners








Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:22 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.