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#1 |
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Aquarium Advice FINatic
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Sump design - help!
I am in the process of designing a DIY 30 gal sump/fuge. I am going to be using an existing 30 gal long tank for my sump. I have a couple of questions before I get started.
I have decided to go with the following set up (from left to right) : intake from tank / return / fuge. I am planning on having the return line "T'd" off to the fuge so it flows back into the return section. Question #1. I was planning on using glass for all of the walls and baffles. How tall should they be? is there a specific height in relation to how tall the sump is? Question #2. Since I am using glass, how could I make the water flow back into the return portion from the fuge? Do I need to have holes drilled or can it just flow over the wall? I have been researching on melevsreef.com and all of his have teeth cut into the top of the wall. (of course he is using acrylic) Question #3. I have seen a lot of people using LR rubble in the intake section of the sump. I am going to put a skimmer either in the intake portion or hanging on the side of that section. Could/should I make a box for the LR rubble within the intake section so the water would flow over the lr then into the intake section? Would it be easier just to make the walls out of acrylic? Thanks for all your help! |
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#2 |
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SW 10 yrs and over
Community Moderator
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Mine is a little different. Mine from left to right is fuge,bio balls soon to be LR and return . That way it flows from left to right and right out the tank
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#3 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
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Glass to glass is a far more reliable bond then acrylic to glass (silicone makes a molecular bond to glass, they both contain silca)
Baffles in the skimmer section to keep the water level consistant will help keep your skimmer in tune as well (not everyone gets those plug and play skimmers personaly, I would want to skim ->fuge ->LR rubble ->main tank (LR can become a N and P sink if exposed to unfiltered water first, you want it to be a biological filter only) I have this cooked up theory that sump flow should be roughly equal to your skimmers water prosessing capsity as well (so that unskimmed water doen't pass it) and the rest of your flow could be handled by a closed loop or similar.. JMHO though. |
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#4 |
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Aquarium Advice FINatic
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Well, I think I have all the answers I need EXCEPT for How tall should the baffles be? I would like to get the glass cut and start putting this thing together. I am going to have one baffle that seperates the intake/LR section from the skimmer section. Then 3 baffles (middle one raised for bubble trap) to the return section. Then one tall baffle for the fuge. I am assuming the first baffle and the 3 for the bubble trap can be the same height since the center one will just be raised. I would also guess the last baffle qould have to be taller so return water can be pumped into it and gravity would overflow it back to the return section. I hope I'm making sense!
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#5 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
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Hmm.. how high you'll want it will kind-of depend on the water level the skimmer needs. and the gaps between for the bubble trap are caculatable (reefcentral has calculators) for the flow you want.
You can plan out the other hights by how you want the water to flow when its pumped back to the main, you have the correct general idea |
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#6 |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Moderator Emeritus
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I just made a sump with a 30 long using acrylic.. I have to look and see if I posted pics in the DIY section.
Did 2 wet runs with a hose and return pump and all worked out well. Water levels were right where I wanted them. I have it set up as the return pump on the left, Skimmer and a return to tank line in center and I will have a fuge with another line from the tank. I may T off this line into the center if the flow is too much in the fuge. link to DIY section http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?t=80218
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9/02-125 REEF, 125 lbs LR,LS 4x160 VHO, Reef Devil /Sump, Fuge 7/03-55 FOWLR 60lb LR, 50 lb SD sand 2x40 NO strip light, Reef Devil/sump, Fuge TANK PICS http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?t=98202 |
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