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Old 06-16-2005, 12:08 PM   #1
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Sump Diagram Update

I made some changes to the original diagram as suggested by my peers on here. Does anybody see any problems with the new changes, or will it work fine like this? Thanks again for your advice!

Mike
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Old 06-16-2005, 12:25 PM   #2
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Looks good!

Out of curiosity... what extra function would the spray bar in the fuge serve?
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Old 06-16-2005, 12:31 PM   #3
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You could increase the height of the dividers a little bit unless you where expecting 15 gal of back flow on a power outage.
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Old 06-16-2005, 12:51 PM   #4
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I figured the spraybar would give the fuge more filtration and water movement.

fishfreek - So you're saying I need to raise all the dividers up? That is the part I am confused about. I certainly don't want 15 gal of water on the floor. Thanks

Mike
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Old 06-16-2005, 01:15 PM   #5
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Im saying you probably could. The diagram looks like all your dividers will be at about 1/2 height so the tank will have about 15 gal of water in it and be able to hold another 15 gal of back wash in the event of power outage. You might be able to get away with rasing the dividers up a little to gain more water in the system. Have you given any thought to how you will replace the evaporation water? The last chamber where your return pumps are will most likly never have its water level evin with the rest of the sump because of evaporation. This is where your evaporation will show thru out the day(s) between top offs.
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Old 06-16-2005, 01:24 PM   #6
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You see..this is why I post my questions here. That is the part I am most curious about. If I have all these chambers, how will I handle topoffs? I know the chamber with the pumps in it will be the one that evaps the most, so I can top it off. However, after a day of running, will I likely have to topoff each chamber?

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Old 06-16-2005, 01:41 PM   #7
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Nope. The only chamber that will drop due to evaporation is the last chamber where your pumps are. Just like how the main tank never drops due to evaporation the first and second chambers of the sump will always be full to capacity because of water flowing into them from the previous chamber. The last chamber is uinque in that water flows from it back to the tank to complete the water cycle. This is the only chamber that will reflect evaporation as far as its water level. The only times the other chambers are at a level below full capacity is if the last chamber runs dry or your taking water out of the sump for a water change.

ALot of people setup auto topoffs that either drip or use a float to add water when it drops below a particular level and then cuts off when water gets back up the the working level. You might be able to run 2 or 3 days with out adding water before the pumps run dry. That will depend on the overall size of the final chamber. If its fairly small and only holds a few gal's of water then you will need to top off more frequent to keep your pumps from running dry. If your final chamber is large you might be able to go a week but should still get on a regular daily or every other day top off schedule.

It doent look like you have calculated out the sizes of each chamber yet as I dont see dimensions above. It might be good to start thinking about that in respect to how large the fuge will be and how much water will be in the pump chamber, etc. I see you have heaters in the first and last chamber. That might push the middle fuge chamber to be smaller than you would like. There isnt anything wrong with having the heaters in the fuge area as I would think that would be the chamber you would want to be the largest in the system.
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Old 06-16-2005, 01:56 PM   #8
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Thanks FF. In your opinion, how large should I make the chamber with the pumps in it? Eventually I will setup an auto topoff, but for now, you're saying make it a decent size so evap will take longer correct? At this point, I can make it as large as needed. The fuge is something optional I am wanting to try, but if it is too much trouble then I will just use this as a sump. The total dimensions on the tank is 30x16x16, so there isn't a whole lot of room to work with there. I'll see what I can do here. Thanks again for your advice on this.

Mike
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Old 06-16-2005, 02:17 PM   #9
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I would shoot for around 5 days worth of evoration time before the pumps ran dry. That would require between 5-10 gal of water in the pump area depending on evaporation. I see about 1 gal a day on both of my 80 and 75 tanks. This would allow you to go on a multiple day trip an dnot have to worry about having someone come to the tnak every day to dump some water in. When you do have to have someone assist you with water additions you should add a line with marker or water resistant tape to the outside of the sump to mark the FULL level and also mark a line just above where your pumps start to suck in air and mark it LOW or ADD WATER.

A way to automate this would be to have a float switch setup with a RO filter that would start the RO filter when water dropped and caused the float swtich to open. Then as the RO filter filled the area it would close the switch and cut the flow of water. An automated procedure would permit a smaller pump chamber. When calculating sizes remember your going to be running the tank at 50-75% full during normal operations so you will only have between 8-12" of water in the system vs the full 16" deep if it was full.
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Old 06-16-2005, 02:26 PM   #10
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That sounds great. Thanks for the information!

Mike
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