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Old 01-23-2005, 08:43 PM   #11
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The ball valves need to go above the true unions. Think of it like this. Should you ever need to disconnect and remove the sump from the tank you will want to cut off the water from the tank and then disconnect the plumbing. This means you neeed the ball valve above the untion so when you disconnect the union the water from the tank doesnt go all over the place.

The concept of the union on the pump is so you can disconnect the pump from the plumbing with out cutting it out or doing to much damage to your plumbing setup. This is where a true untion after the pump is good as well as a ball valve above it so you can turn off the water going back to the tank and disconnect the pump.

A one way 'flap' valve can also limit the amount of water that returns when power is off. DONT get the ones that have metal springs in them. As you know metal and staltwater dont mix well. Marinedepot is one of the stores online that can sell you a metal free oneway 'flap' valve.

I second the suggestion for a larger return pump. Your going to end up with a head height of at least 4' or 5' and remember pumps dont have a consistant output at any headheight. The higher you pump your water up the lower the overall GPH output of the pump.

You could connect the tub and the refuge by drilling a hole in the tub an dinstalling a bulkhead and plumbing. Rase the tub so the outlet thats maybe 3/4th up the side of the sump spills into the left chamber of your refuge. Dont run your fuge at full capacity as you will need to allow for water to flow into the sump and fuge from the tank when power is cut.
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Old 01-23-2005, 08:58 PM   #12
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Ok, makes perfect sense now. I will run those BV's and Unions exactly as stated. I will also use marinedepot for these valves... makes me glad I didnt go to HD too soon - I put money on it that I would have picked up metal constructed ones


One other thing - when my AquaC Pro comes in - I just drop this thing in the tub and let it pick up and spit out water in the same area with no adapters or no plumbing attached to it or should I like run the output of it over to another area of my setup?

Thanks again all - kud's to you too ff
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Old 01-23-2005, 10:06 PM   #13
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I'm with FF on the unions and the ball valves, however I am not a fan of check valves (flap valves). If your running water capacity is large enough to cover for power failure then omit them if you can. I would also try to get a large of a sump as you can squeeze in there. And definately do NOT make the return chamber small. Make it as LARGE as you can or just a little evap can cause your pump to run dry.

Another reason ro go bigger may be your skimmer. You say Aqua C pro so I am guessing either a remora or an urchin. Neither of hich will work in a 10Gallon tank, they are too tall.

R-
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Old 01-23-2005, 10:19 PM   #14
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Well, I was wanting to put the Urchin in the 18g tub on the left - should I not? The water level should be at around 10 or so inches after I make my bulkhead cut to drain to the refugium tank.

The problem I see with going bigger than a 10 gallon - lets say a 20 on the fuge is that it will be more taller with a few more inches in length. The top of the 10 that I have sitting there now is already cutting it close as far as being almost as tall as the rubbermaid sump which is about as tall as I can go in itself stand space wise. If the aquarium fuge gets any taller, I wont be able to run the gravity drain over the top and will have to take a chance on it being tempered and try to pop a hole in the side glass to run through it. (not that it was espensive, but....)

I can't really raise the sump tub any because I wont have any room to work in it/dump water etc. The darn drawers are already right above it already with a few inches of workspace. I hope all of this makes sense - if not, ask and I will clarify.

TIA
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Old 01-24-2005, 07:47 PM   #15
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Anyone?
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Old 01-24-2005, 08:09 PM   #16
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Sorry Spencer, it sounds fine. An 18 gallon rubbermaid should be taller than your 10 gallon so make sure your bulkhead is higher than the 10, also make sure it is large enough diamater to accept the flow. Should be fine.

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Old 01-24-2005, 11:46 PM   #17
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Aight, the building shall commence!! Well, off to the Depot tomorrow then. Once again, thanks again everyone and a special thx to Sump.

To anyone following this thread - I will try to add an updated drawing of my final design and the parts/cost of the project when I get a chance.

Spencer
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