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Old 01-22-2005, 08:30 PM   #1
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Sump Drawing - fill in gaps?

Ok here is what I have so far. I have a few questions before I build though and I dont have the refugium glass tank yet - I'm going to buy it tonight. I have about 24" of room max next to the tub so I will probably have to get the 10g tank.

1) Where should I place the cutoff ball valves in this config for future maintenance/ease of operation?
2) I am getting the AquaC Urchin Pro with the Mag3 pump.. where does it tie in and how? I would like to keep it in the sump area for neatness of the fuge.
3) Should I put lr rubble in bottom of sump or in the left compartment of the fuge?
4) How should I connect the tank and tub? I will cut the tub if I have to.
5) Can I run a MJ1200 for the return or is this too big/small?
6) Is this generally an efficient setup? Should I change anything in the layout for safety etc?
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Old 01-22-2005, 08:41 PM   #2
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MJ1200 seems a little small for a return pump... what head height do you have? For a 75, I would recommend a Mag 5 or 7... depending how big your intake hose is. (correct me if a refugium setup is different).

Put the Urchin in a spot in your sump where the water level will remail constant. This will maximize efficiency and will cause less headaches down the road. I believe Aqua C recommends any water height up to 9 inches. Just make sure the pump never goes without water, and that the skimmer is put before your baffles leading to return pump (set up a micro-bubble trap).

LR should always be underneath water. Can go anywhere really, maybe keep it in the tub so that it's away from the pumps just in case debris falls off a pebble & gets stuck in the pump impeller.

Blind leading the blind... I love it.

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Old 01-23-2005, 02:21 AM   #3
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Send Sumphead a PM. He is our resident expert regarding sump designs.

Mike
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Old 01-23-2005, 01:01 PM   #4
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Will do
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Old 01-23-2005, 03:39 PM   #5
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The MJ1200 is way to small for that setup. The amount of water comming out of the powerhead at that headheight will be like 40-50GPH. You should shoot for 700-1000GPH thru the sump. I would also invest in some true unions before the pumps and just below the tank. This will allow you to remove the pump if you need to repair/replace it as well as disconnect the plumbing from the tank when you need to move it. Put ballvalves on the take side of the true unions comming from the tank. Put the ball valve on the side opposite the pump. THis way you can cut the water off and then seperate the plumbing at the union.
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Old 01-23-2005, 04:24 PM   #6
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V2 drawing attached....let me know if this is what you were talking about.
OK, I will go with a mag5 or 7 for return instead. Is the item called a "true union" at the hardware store? I am about to ride to Home Depot and will get 10' of the airline tubing, some metal adjustable clamps to secure them to PVC, a few ball valves, some PVC cement, PVC primer, etc. and two true unions.

Another thing - the oceanic rr kit came with the ribbed 3/4 bulkead insert for the return and a 1" same for the drain (hard plastic ribbed pieces) Do most people run PVC glued to these or airline tubing? How do I connect to these things? Do I just get 1" and 3/4 pvc and push it over these ribbed pieces? Also. do I glue the actual return pipe and drainpipe into the bulkead or no? Sorry for so many q's.... just don't want to screw this up the first go-round
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Old 01-23-2005, 06:36 PM   #7
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Can anyone give advice on how I should connect the tub (sump) and the 10g aquarium (fuge)?
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Old 01-23-2005, 07:56 PM   #8
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OK, got your PM and will help where I can. Let's start with the megaflow; You describe a ribbed bulhead. This is either a threaded bulkhead or a barbed adapter. If it is threaded like a screw you will need a PVC adapter to hard plumb it or a PVC adapter to a barbed end. If it is barbed you will need flex tubing (kind of like air tube onlt larger) and clamps. I recommend all plastic clamps and threaded tubing as it is stronger.

As for connecting the rubbermaid container to the fuge, simply raise it slightly and cut a hole in it for a bulkhead and let gravity feed your sump/refugium. I would also suggest that you reverse the multiple bubble baffles to the return pump side. On that note, as said above a larger pump will be required for a desired effect. I would recommend a good pressure rated external pump, but that would require another hole in your sump/fuge for return. I would at least recommend a Mag12.

Keep in mind the rate of eveporation in your sump will weigh heavily on the size of your return chamber for your pump. This is where you will see your evaporation.

I can draw a diagram if you like.

HTH,
R-
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Old 01-23-2005, 08:38 PM   #9
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Ohh snap! now you're talking business! Yeah, after I anchor the bulkheads on the tank with the soft rubber washer and huge threaded nuts, there are pieces which can be cemented into the bottomside of the bulkeads I just seated (no threads on the tops of them - just flat so it takes cement to make em stick) and then about 2 /12 inches of huge barbs on the other end. So basically I have two black plastic big ribbed 3/4" and a 1" ends just sticking straight down into my cabinet area. How the heck do I get PVC on there? And what size PVC do I need?

WAIT - I just thought of something.... I can not glue on those barbed things and I still have a lot of the thread on the bottom of both of the bulkheads showing that I can apply some adapters to them if needed - is that what you are talking about? Just going without the ribbed deals?

Will do on the bubble baffle side change. This is a brand new AGA 10g plain tank... I'm not sure if the side is tempered to get a bulkhead drilled in there for an ext. pump so I may have to do an in-tank return.

Wow. will I really need a pump that big... I am going at a 45 degree angle 43" to bottom of tank and then 19" up to water surface.

As for the evap - is that due to the pump heat? Do I want that chamber as tight as possible?

Thanks again - kudos to you
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Old 01-23-2005, 08:40 PM   #10
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Thanks for helping out Sumphead.

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