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Old 02-10-2005, 01:17 AM   #1
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Sump - Drilled Tank questions

I've had a 72 gal salt fishonly for about 2 years and everythigns worked great. Ive had a skimmer, and uv steril but just normal canister filter.

Im going to be moving and upgrading a new 150 gal all glass drilled megalfow tank. Im looking for all info on how to set this up.

Heres what I have planned.
- Tidepool ( looks like i need two of these)?
- quiet one pump powering this
- turboflotor 1000 in sump

My question is, what are my sump alternatives? Are tidepools any good, what are my other options? I really have no experience with drilled tanks and sumps.

Thanks!
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Old 02-10-2005, 05:30 AM   #2
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Im no pro but i would go with a wet/dry filter and whatever brand is really up to you. Since it's pre drilled you wont have to bother with a prefilter/overflow box. Just make sure your wet/dry is capable of handling your 150 gal tank. Right now i have a pro clear aquatics 150 gal wet/dry with built in skimmer on my 75 gal tank but haven't set it up yet so really cant say how it works.
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Old 02-10-2005, 10:00 AM   #3
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Why do you feel you need two tidepools? Is this based upon their recommended size or flow rate?

For large tanks (above 90 gal) alot of times its better to make you own sump simply because of the volume of water. A 55 gal tank for example with some glass partions silconed into it would make a wonderful sump for a tank that size. In all honesty it would probably be cheaper or equivlent to buying one or even two comercial wet/dry filters.

On large tanks you have few choices as far as pump configuration. You can go with a massive single pump. For a 150 shoot for 1500-2000GPH flow rate and then have the returns split with a SQWD or just a Y fitting. You could go with two medium size pumps each plumbed to a seperate side. If you do two pumps each pump itself could push 750-1000GPH. The idea with two pumps is if you should have a problem with one pump you have a second pump to 'limp' along on till you can get another pump. With a one pump system if the pump fails on you your stuck with no circulation from the sump until you can replace/repair it. The final option is to add a closed loop into the mix. This can be doen with a single pump or double pump configuration. A closed loop would pull water out of the tank directly into the pump and then back to the tank. Close loops are good wasy to boost flow thru a system and at the same time not cause a massive amount of flow thru the overflows or sump.
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Old 02-10-2005, 01:32 PM   #4
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Thanks, more questions!

Hmm. Well I'd rather avoid making my own sump. So I Guess im looking for the best pre made one. Id also like to go with a wet/dry filter since it's going to be a fish only tank.

I guess many of my questions regard how to do the plumbing, bulkhead install etc.

Your correct I only said i needed 2 tidepools because of comapanies suggestion.

Tell me more about connecting both overflows to one sump, just as simple as using a "y" connection?

Id assume there is some sort of "rule" on size of a sump for a tank to allow for enough capacity in case of power.

Thanks for all your help!!
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Old 02-10-2005, 03:46 PM   #5
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Its best to plumb the two drains into the sump seperately. This way if something clogs one it wont have a chance to clog the other. The tank should come with bulkhead fittings for the tank overflows. From there I would use two true unions. This way you can disconnect the sump plumbing from the tank if/when you need to move the tank and you wont have to cut your plumbing up to get the tank off the stand.

From the true unions I would run them into either the same side of the sump or to opposite sides. If you go with a comercial sump/wetdry then you will have to plumb them to one side of the sump where as if you built your own sump you could design it to accept water on either side. Try to design your plumbing to allow for a decent down angle on the side that has to traval the furthest. To much of a horizonal run will end up impeeding the performance of the overflow.

From there they would dump into a drip plate for a wet/dry or would dump directly into the sump.

There is no real rule of thumb on sump size expecially when talking about power outages but there is some level of logic to picking the size. For example a 20 gal sump would be to small for a 150 gal tank (IMO of course). This is because you cant run the sump at full capcity when the pump is running. You need to account for power outage and account for back syphon when the pumps off. So a 20 gal sump might run with only 5 gal of water in it so it could accept upward to 15 gal of backsyphon and not overflow. Using a 55 gal tank like I iniallty suggested would let you have say 20 gal of water in the sump system and still have 30 to 35 gal of reserve capacity to accept backflow. You can reduce the amount of backflow by adding a one way 'flapper' valve to your return plumbing. This valve prevents water from flowing back down the plumbing so when the power fails water drains into the sump until the water level is even with the bottom of the overflow inlet slits.

I would affix a true union directly after and before your pump aswell. This way you can remove the pump with out having to cut it out of the system and then have to do some kind of repair job on your plumbing. A ball valve is good to put directly before the true union going into the pump and directly after the true union going out of the pump. This way you can cut off the water before removing the pump. If you dont do this you will have to drain the entire sump before servicing the pump.

To plumb the return lines just pick how you want the returns to work. Do you want one return in the tank or do you want multiple returns. If you want multiple returns I would suggest you look at the SQWD product as this is an alternating current device to facilitate two returns to the tank.

For more info on sumps in general check our articles area. In addition you might be interested in a Sump/Refug combo.
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