Supplemental food for turbo snails
- Thread starter tigger
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
I bought the 20 gal QT. I removed some LS from the 10 gal QT and added it to the 20 gal. What is the least stressful way to move the fish from the main tank to the QT? The butterfly looks really rough. He is covered with ich & his fins are frayed.
How long should I wait until I move the fish?
How long should I wait until I move the fish?
S
steve-s
Guest
If you filled the 20 gal with water from the main tank, then as soon as the temp is stable the fish can be netted and moved. As long as the butterfly's gills are not infested it may yet be saved. I do not normally recommend this but considering your description of the fish, you may also want to perform a FW dip on the fish before they enter the QT. If the fish's condition is extreme there is also a chance of death so use at your discretion.
The dip must be done very carefully and if unsure do not do it. Use RO water with methylene blue added. Ensure the "bath" is at the same ph and temp as the QT tank, monitoring both for accuracey. Net the fish, place it in the FW container for about 3ish minutes. If the fish shows unusual high stress, transfer the fish sooner.
Leave the lights off and begin the process for treating with <<hyposalinity>>.
Cheers
Steve
The dip must be done very carefully and if unsure do not do it. Use RO water with methylene blue added. Ensure the "bath" is at the same ph and temp as the QT tank, monitoring both for accuracey. Net the fish, place it in the FW container for about 3ish minutes. If the fish shows unusual high stress, transfer the fish sooner.
Leave the lights off and begin the process for treating with <<hyposalinity>>.
Cheers
Steve
We moved the fish before we received your reply (we were freaking out). The butterfly looks alot better. The visible ich spots are for the most part gone. The yellow tang died "Master Tang" 
He hasn't looked well for awhile. He was a very light yellow, almost white. I bought "Zoe" to add to their food to help, but I guess it was too late. The two other remaining fish look o.k. The butterfly is really going to miss his buddy Master Tang. They were together everywhere in the tank.
Should we buy any other food additives? I've seen on this website that some people add garlic. Is this just regular human garlic extract or a different one for fish?
I'm also worried about overfeeding in this smaller tank. The butterfly loves to eat! I guess that's why he will eventually be huge. Any suggestions?
Thanks again!
He hasn't looked well for awhile. He was a very light yellow, almost white. I bought "Zoe" to add to their food to help, but I guess it was too late. The two other remaining fish look o.k. The butterfly is really going to miss his buddy Master Tang. They were together everywhere in the tank.Should we buy any other food additives? I've seen on this website that some people add garlic. Is this just regular human garlic extract or a different one for fish?
I'm also worried about overfeeding in this smaller tank. The butterfly loves to eat! I guess that's why he will eventually be huge. Any suggestions?
Thanks again!
S
steve-s
Guest
Sorry to hear about the loss of the tang
Keep up with water changes and make sure you monitor ph/alk during the hypo process. It has a habit of falling off and may need to be buffered. Also keep tabs for possible signs of secondary infection.
Cheers
Steve
Garlic can be a great aid in helping the fish repel C irritans but be clear that it is not a cure. Also be sure to use sparingly. A few drops in the food will be enough. To much and you will have water quality issues. Kaolic garlic from the local health food store will do just as good and is often much cheaper than the LFS but must be refrigerated. You can also use a small fresh clove of garlic. Crush it is a bowl slightly, add some tank water and allow to sit for about an hour. After the wait time remove the garlic and add the food. Wait another hour or so and then feed to the QT sparingly. The ingredient allicin in the garlic comes from the oils and is all you really need.tigger said:
Feed only small amounts and once done, syphon out any leftover foods and/or detritus with a small air tube. One of the benefits of the barebottom QT is wastes as well as parasitic cysts are more easily seen and readily removed.
Keep up with water changes and make sure you monitor ph/alk during the hypo process. It has a habit of falling off and may need to be buffered. Also keep tabs for possible signs of secondary infection.
Cheers
Steve
Gill (Butterfly) died last night. He was my favorite fish. Hopefully, the gramma & clownfish will survive. They never seemed to be as affected by the ich as the other fish. The gramma won't come out of the sunken ship. I think he's still upset about being moved.
I'll leave the main tank fallow for 6 weeks. Should I do any water changes too? I'll also treat with the Cuprisorb and find the polyfilters.
Thank you for your help. I really do appreciate it.
Natalie
Hopefully, the gramma & clownfish will survive. They never seemed to be as affected by the ich as the other fish. The gramma won't come out of the sunken ship. I think he's still upset about being moved. I'll leave the main tank fallow for 6 weeks. Should I do any water changes too? I'll also treat with the Cuprisorb and find the polyfilters.
Thank you for your help. I really do appreciate it.
Natalie
cmor1701d
Aquarium Advice Addict
If you leave the main tank fallow for 6 weeks there is no need to treat it. C irritans can NOT survive without a host (fish) and will therefore perish in 4 weeks (the life cycle of C irritans).
You may want to treat the fish in QT.
HTH,
Cmor
You may want to treat the fish in QT.
HTH,
Cmor
Thanks for the reply. I treated the main tank w Cupramine several weeks ago & it didn't work. I have the 20 qt for the now remaining clownfish & royal gramma. The Cuprisorb is to remove the copper from the main tank. So, you don't think I need to do any water changes for the main tank? The clownfish looks weird now too. He is swimming at the top & is having a hard time keeping himself upright (keeps turning over on his side). Hopefully, he'll be able to pull through.
S
steve-s
Guest
Water changes will continue to dilute the copper concentration so that will help in addition to the Cuprisorb and polyfilter.tigger said:
Could be acclimation shock if the main tank and QT did not have matching parameters if transfered without acclimating the fish first. One of the important benifits of filling the QT with the water from the main tank. It could also be netting damage when caught, a bladder infection or blockage. Try feeding some brine with soft mashed peas mixed in. If a blockage that will clear it. If it becomes neccessary an antibiotic may be needed in which case a Nitrofurazone based med would work best.
Swimming at the surface could mean excess ammonia/nitrite or low ph/alk. Make sure you check those a few times a day and do water changes or buffer as needed.
The ich will not go away on it's own and requires an effective treatment, preferabley <<hyposalinity>>
Steve,
Each time I click on "hyposalinity", I get an error message & it sends a report to microsoft. What is hyposalinity? I did a search on this forum & everyone talks about it, but I haven't been able to find out exactly what it is.
What brand name antibiotic do you recommend?
I really appreciate your patience. I just want to save my fish.
Each time I click on "hyposalinity", I get an error message & it sends a report to microsoft. What is hyposalinity? I did a search on this forum & everyone talks about it, but I haven't been able to find out exactly what it is.
What brand name antibiotic do you recommend?
I really appreciate your patience. I just want to save my fish.
S
steve-s
Guest
Hyposalinity is a treatment that slowly lowers the salinity of the QT water to 14 ppt.tigger said:
Try copy/paste the link into your browser instead.
http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-jones/hyposalinity.html
In the event it is needed, Furacyn by aquatronics would work well.
Cheers
Steve
S
steve-s
Guest
A water change will take care of the ammonia but the ph is fine.
Cheers
Steve
Cheers
Steve
