jeffaquarius
Aquarium Advice Addict
The easiest way is I would just do a large pwc with the right parameter. I choose my salinity to be at 1.026 since it will have the right level of those elements that I want.
Symptoms of bad KH
- Thread starter Breakthecycle2
- Start date
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mr_X
Aquarium Advice Addict
I'm assuming you mean wellsophyllia? If so, they are low to medium light IME, and they are bleached because of the LED lighting, not alk. I've noticed that most LPS don't tolerate extremely strong lighting without a very long acclimation. The same goes for certain anemones.
Breakthecycle2
Aquarium Advice FINatic
They are all on the sand bed. I guess why I didn't think it was LED related because they came from tanks with LED's already and I had them set very low. So in your experence, it's def the LED's? How can I make them bounce back? As I said, they have been this way for months and even when I was using very low light, they still didn't bounce back.
jeffaquarius
Aquarium Advice Addict
How long were your salinity at 1.020 before you raised it up to 1.025? Did you already have those coral problems before or during your salinity went down?
Breakthecycle2
Aquarium Advice FINatic
Hoenstly, I don't know. I wish I could have a better answer. I had two hydrometers that kept reading between 1.25 -1.28. It wasn't until last week that I had the water tested with a refractometer and it read 1.20. I was floored. I knew hydrometers were not 100% accurate, but I never thought they were that off. My best guess is the salinity was down for a while. Maybe a month or more.
mr_X
Aquarium Advice Addict
Hmm..lots of variables here. My lps did best under very low light, like that of a 150 watt halide (50 PAR where they sat). They were the most colorful then. Now these LEDs have forced me to do super long acclimation, since I can't turn the display tank down to accommodate. So i end up putting my new additions in the back tanks and starting them at maybe 50% blue and 0% white, and going up from there weekly.
BTW, 50% blue and zero white is enough to keep sps alive with the units I am using. Not brilliantly colored, but growing.
BTW, 50% blue and zero white is enough to keep sps alive with the units I am using. Not brilliantly colored, but growing.
jeffaquarius
Aquarium Advice Addict
I would check calibration of refractometer first.
furrymurray
Aquarium Advice Freak
- Joined
- May 12, 2011
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- 277
Just checking. You said salinty is at 1.25 etc. Do you mean 1.025? There should be a zero there. If it is 1.25 that is way too salty.
Breakthecycle2
Aquarium Advice FINatic
I did. I calibrated it.
Breakthecycle2
Aquarium Advice FINatic
Yes. I meant 1.025
jeffaquarius
Aquarium Advice Addict
Once you get your salinity stabilized with the help of your refractometer and regular pwc, your alk should go back on track. I would stop dosing until you have figured out how much it drop in a week. You may not even have to dose once you do your pwc religiously.
Breakthecycle2
Aquarium Advice FINatic
I do 5 gallon water changes every week.
jeffaquarius
Aquarium Advice Addict
Do you take the parameter readings of your new saltwater before pwc? Just to verify the alk content.
Breakthecycle2
Aquarium Advice FINatic
I don't know where to do from here. I've done two to three water changes using Caribsea boxed water. I did not test it yesterday, but on friday tank 1 was 8.5, tank two was 8. tested it today, tank 1 was 8, tank 2 was 7. why is it being used up so much? I am dosing nearly every day with Elos KH and buffer. I am also still using the Elos KH test kit. The only thing I have added to each tank as a GFO reactor. Could this be causing the KH swings?
jeffaquarius
Aquarium Advice Addict
The GFO does lower alk. You might have to increase your dosage to maintain the right level. You also need to know the dkh of new salt water before pouring in. Some salt mix are just below 8. At 7 it is still acceptable which is the neutral level. If you can maintain it at 8 that would be fine.
New member with a question about my Dunkins. Bought a five-headed frag a year ago and they grew a lot and added several new heads. Then I lowered salinity to fight ich but have brought salinity back up several months ago. They seemed to be fine but recently, the heads have started one by one to not extend and then die. I feed them sometimes with a dropper full of brine shrimp or myses. Can't give you many parameters because I don't have test kits at the moment and am too broke to buy any right now. Salinity: 1024, temp.: 78. I have a canister with nitrate remover beads, carbon, a power head for circulation, and a Aquaclear for additional filtration. Compact lighting. Other corals like mushrooms seem fine and are budding new heads. I thought it might be too much flow and moved them to a quieter spot yesterday. More water changes or what do I need? Any reply would be gratefully appreciated by this Texan. Thanks, Eddie McMinn
Breakthecycle2
Aquarium Advice FINatic
Which dose do I need to increase?
jeffaquarius
Aquarium Advice Addict
Increase Elos KH. I'm not sure what you mean by the other buffer since Elos KH is also a buffer. If PH is low try making more surface agitation. You may not dose Calc if it is within 400.
jeffaquarius
Aquarium Advice Addict
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