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Old 12-30-2009, 03:16 PM   #31
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Aww that sucks .Well get better soon !!Happy new year to you to Floyd!!
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Old 12-30-2009, 04:52 PM   #32
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Floyd, if you mix the aragonite and the crushed coral, they will seperate and form two layers. One, the aragonite will help buffer your tank and two, the crushed coral will eventually lead you back to where you started....Nitrate city.......Looks to me it might have been easier to just tear the whole tank down and start from scatch. imo
Anyway, nice work and I'm sure you have learned a ton of experience.
Nice job!
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Old 12-30-2009, 07:49 PM   #33
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Looks to me it might have been easier to just tear the whole tank down and start from scatch. imo

yeah, but customer wasn't up for that and I probably would have lost the puffer if I tried to move it.

Gonna go with just Aragonite, now the next question is: do I bother to keep any of what he already has? Is it doing any good after a deep siphon? It may have harbored some anaerobic bacteria, but that colony A) wasn't doing it's job and B) is probably 1/4 or less of what it was before deep siphoning. So would it be beneficial at all to just cover it up with another layer of new and leave the old stuff in there?
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Old 01-05-2010, 11:40 AM   #34
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Turning dead rock into live

I have searched through several threads regarding curing live rock, etc, but didn't see an answer to my question. I have 110+ lbs of fiji & florida rock that I bought via craigslist that is dry and dead. I want to turn this into live rock. I understand that since it is dried out, it most likely harbors no organisms, and they would be dead it anything and just need to be rinsed away and soaked to ensure no ammonia spike, etc. What I was hoping to do is turn this into live rock quickly. I read one thread along the way where someone took a piece of fully cured LR and crushed it up with a sledgehammer into sand (essentially) and poured that over the dead rock and let it cure up, and this quickly turned the dead/base rock into LR, organisms and all. Has anyone else done this with success? Is this an acceptable technique, and are there additional steps that need to be taken to ensure the curing takes hold, other than the usual large water changes, heater, powerhead, skimmer, etc?

Also, can this be done in a rubbermaid tub with no light, or would it be better to do this in a tank with a light?

I have an empty 92 corner that I am intending to eventually turn into a SW reef, but I would have to re-arrange my office and move my 55 to make that happen.
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Old 01-06-2010, 05:56 AM   #35
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Floyd, If you syphoned that sand out pretty good I would just add the additional sand to make up for what has been syphoned out. The way that tank is now I would just rinse that Baserock out really well and just add it directly to the tank. The faster it starts to become live the better for the fish that are left . As far as crushing the liverock....You already have the sand that should have some life to it. Just add some LR for diversity of lifeforms and monitor in case of a small ammonia or nitrite spike and PWC as needed and you should be good to go.
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Old 01-06-2010, 09:06 AM   #36
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I'd put the rock in a rubbermaid with SW and a powerhead. Then, I'd check the water readings to make sure there isn't any die-off occuring. Just cause it's dry doesn't mean some water added won't start further decay. With that much (100lbs you say?), I wouldn't chance it. Rinse the dry stuff off with FW and brush just in case and you'll likely be OK.

Forgive me for not reading back, but would this 100lbs be added to the stuff in the previous pics?
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Old 01-06-2010, 09:26 AM   #37
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Yes, I will be rinsing it well and soaking in a tub of SW w/power head before doing anything with it. I will probably not add all of it, but quite a bit would go in. Based on what I think everything weighed when I pulled the existing LR out to clean the cyano off (which I'll probably have to do again) there is about 40-60 lbs in there, plus some non-reef rock (and ugly decor) that I will take out in favor of the new base rock.

Still one more major job to go before tackling that - clean the power head & replace the hoses. That's this week's job.
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Old 01-07-2010, 01:52 AM   #38
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Yes! THE BARREL MUST DIE!!!!
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Old 01-13-2010, 05:42 PM   #39
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Sixth cleaning 1/11/10

I did a big water change on Monday this week. 2 batched of 40 gallons each, I emptied and cleaned the sump, rinsed the bio-balls, then filled the sump up with 15 gallons, pulled 45 out of the tank and filled it with the remaining 25, then pulled about 20 more out while mixing up the other 40 and filled all the way - effectively about 74 gallons, or just under 50%.

I took apart the power head, which wasnít as dirty as I thought it would be. I replaced the return hoses, which was a darn good thing, because I took off one of the clamps and the hose came off the bulkhead with just a wiggle, and it was dry and hard. It could have been bumped off at any time, so it was good that I took care not to disturb it this whole time!!

I was going to remove the intake bulkhead and clean inside the overflow, but skipped that part for now. The insides of the return pipes are pretty dirty, goo gooped up on the inside, but thatíll have to wait for another day.
I didnít do any gravel siphoning, but I did notice that the gravel, LR and glass are growing quite a bit of green hair algae.

I ran the Magnum overnight, on a brand new cartridge, and when I got there the next day it was sucked in on itself, so the cleaning job really stirred up a lot of gunk. I had to take a toothbrush all around the edges, and a stiff scrub brush and algae scraper wand to the overflow towers to get the calcified dead algae off of it. It looks a lot better now. No pic, sorry. The job took me 4 hours, and I was exhausted after that.

I tested the water yesterday 1/12 and here are my results:

Temp 80.2 F (Digital)
pH 7.8 t 7.9 (API)
KH 11.5 (Salifert)
Salinity 35 (refractometer)
Ammonia 0 (API)
Nitrite 0 (API)
Phosphate between 2 and 4 hard to tell (Salifert)
Nitrate 80 (API extrapolated)

The Phosphates are interesting to note, because back on 12/29/09, they tested about 2. Now after about 2 weeks of soak time and a 50% water change, theyíre higher. This can only be from feeding practices, but he feeds them ľ of a piece of frozen shrimp a day, so would that cause a phosphate rise?

What interesting about the Nitrates is that 80 now extrapolates to 160 before, which is lower than or equal to what it was after the last water change. Itís possible that some de-nitrification is happening, but then again, it is an API test kit weíre talking about.

I plan on doing another 50% water change to get the nitrates down to 40 and hopefully the phosphates down to below 2, then I will add a phosphate remover to the sump and install the protein skimmer (which should have arrived already, but for some reason has not)

I am also scheduled to get my 150 GPD RO/DI unit TODAY! Itís on the truck, out for delivery. The wait is killing me. NO MORE TRIPS TO WAL-MART!!!

Also, Iím going to soak a bunch of the base rock I have to make sure thereís no dead organisms that would give off ammonia, and put a ton in there. Also need to replace all the bulbs, and scrub the LR again to get the algae off. Iím guessing that the absence of the Yellow Tang is probably not helping, he probably kept the algae under control a little bit.
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Old 01-14-2010, 02:29 AM   #40
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Keep it up Floyd! Has the barrel suffered an unfortunate demise yet?
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