Tapwater report

[Scoot]

This is from our Metro Utilities District:

Phosphate ppm <0.05 0.52 0.56
Silica ppm 7.8 25.3 32.1
Dissolved Solids
(total, calculated) ppm 439 404 574
Alkalinity (total) as CaCO3 ppm 84 139 264

Each of the three numbers represent which water plant is being tested - I'm not sure which we're on.

Are those phostphate and silica numbers high for somebody not using RO/DI? I'm treating with Prime at the moment, but have been fighting cyano, and even with water changes its not getting better.

 

[Devilishturtles]

I don't know about the silica, but the phosphate definitley is. It may be all of your problem too. I know alot of people here has used Phosguard (or some other brand of phosphate remover) and it has helped immensely.

HTH

 

[Scoot]

I still can't get a reading from the tank - the color matches the FW test, not SW, at 0.5.

I have a couple phosphate pads coming, that are supposed to absorbe quite a bit pretty fast. We'll see if it helps.

This sucks to be happening now, since I've moved off the HOB filter, and my nitrates are starting to approach zero (or they could be zero, but I'm still not 100% sure how to read the test, I probably need to try another brand). Everything else, temp, pH, Ca, etc., are all rock-solid and perfect for a reef setup. Haven't tested hardness, but with my Ca in line, and pH very stable, it must be within range.

 

[roka64]

Can you confirm your tests with your LFS?

 

[tecwzrd]

I still can't get a reading from the tank

That’s usually because whatever algae is present in the tank will use the available po4 and cause false readings.

Testing the source water is really the only real determination of po4. While the po4 absorbing pads do work well in removing it I’d still invest in a quality RO/DI unit. Even with RO/DI po4 can be introduced to the tank via poor quality carbon and food sources. I’d still use the Poly-Bio-Marine Poly Filter or PURA pads to reduce po4 over using any chemical media.