Technical Tinkering-sump

[Hara]

ok, the entire box of fittings and hoses and junk looked pretty intimidating. I figured we would just start putting things that fit together and see what happened. The whole idea worked pretty well until we got to the ribbed hosesthat put the water into the sump...those hoses and 4 fittings, threaded on one side and smooth on the other, seem to be what needs to go together. Unfortunately, the hose ends and the pvc are the exact same size. Any ideas?

 

[reefrunner69]

You can use either an appropriately sized hose barb..1" (I'm assuming) and glue it into the bulk head, or you can simply glue a short length of PVC 1" into the bulkhead and the drain line should slip right over it, snugly. The end of the drain line should be fairly flexible. The fittings you have shown are new to me. You did get slip bulkheads...right? If not, you'll need to use a threaded hose barb, or a threaded to slip bushing.

 

[Hara]

The bulkhead bushings are totally threaded on both sides. The plastic end of the hoses are hard like pvc, not soft like a hose.

 

[loganj]

Measure the inside diameter of the hose end. Get a threaded barb the same size. Probably, as Kevin said, 1". Be sure to use some teflon tape on the threads too...just extra insurance against a leak. Unless these are different than the usual hoses used for this purpose, the ends will give enough to slip onto the barb. I would secure it with a stainless hose clamp even if it fits very tightly. I think this will work for you.
Logan J

 

[roadster3043]

Greetings.

Are those the remaining parts in the pictures?
Have you verified that you haven't placed something in the wrong place, etc.?

 

[Anemoneman]

The hoses you have are not the best to use IMO. I got rid of mine because of the way they fit. On my first tank the LFS guy pushed the hose end INTO the pvc bushing. I asked him what keeps it from popping out and he said "I do all my tanks like that and have no problem". ooooooK. I suggest hard piping your tank-to-sump with schedule 40 pvc (the white stuff) with a threaded union to let you take it apart. I put the union right below the overflow. No risk of poor fitting hoses coming off.

Mark

 

[maiceman]

I agree with Mark. Hose clamps and hose barbs are fine for sprinkler system because a small leak really doesn't matter. In you house though I would error on the side of safety and hard pipe it. PVC is relatively inexpensive and every combination of fitting you could possibly need HD has on the shelf... or in a box stuck where you cant reach it.

 

[loganj]

Have to agree...PVC would be better. I have used the flex hoses and haven't had trouble with them, but they were always on a barb fitting and securely clamped. They are sort of noisy...I bet the PVC would be quieter too.
Logan J

 

[Anemoneman]

barb fitting and securely clamped

With pvc there are no hose clamps to rust either.

 

[reefrunner69]

While I believe if you set up the flex hoses properly you will not experience a leak...I do agree hard plumbing it would be better. I do not agree with using schedule 40, I would use the thin walled pvc (can't remember the schedule #) there will be no pressure on the drain line, so schedule 40 isn't necessary and it will restrict the flow. The restriction is probably a mute issue, but you never know. I would also hard plumb the return with true union valves for maintenance.

 

[Guest]

Schedule 20

 

[reefrunner69]

Thanks Tim

 

[Hara]

Ok, I managed to get all the fittings except 1....it was the incorrect size. We went ahead and put it all together, the one fitting needed was from the bushing to the water pump, so needless to say, we don't know if it all works. I went ahead and used the flex tube for now. Will probably change it at some later date to pvc. I was a little nervous about not being able to shift the sump if I needed to ...silly reason, but such as it is. My big concern now is because i have no experience with sumps, I am not sure if the lines will work. The lines from the overflow INTO the sump, have dips in them and rises to the sump bushings. Does the water flow hard enough to overcome this type of thing? I could not come up with a way to shorten the flex hose.

 

[cal91666]

If you do use clamps stainless steel are available most anywhere including HD use them the won't rust.

 

[Anemoneman]

The lines from the overflow INTO the sump, have dips in them and rises to the sump bushings.

Another reason to use pvc. Cut the flex pipes to a length that would eliminate the trap. The end of the pipe should be under water to reduce noise. If you hard pipe to the sump, make the pipe so it enters at a point away from the wall of the sump so it can be adjusted and moved slightly if needed. If the sump needs to removed, you can remove the pvc via the unions you installed.
I mentioned schedule 40 not for the pressure rating but for it's availability. It is the most common form of pvc pipe. Most of the fittings you find are schedule 40. If 20 is available, it is cheaper so I would use it.

Mark

 

[Hara]

the clamps are the plastic type that seem to come with everything nowadays.

 

[cal91666]

the clamps are the plastic type that seem to come with everything nowadays.

Buy yourself some insurance and go get the stainless steel ones from HD.
A bag of 10 is like $4.99