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Old 06-12-2015, 07:29 PM   #21
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I still think turning the wet side so the closed area is in top will help.
What setting and percentage are you running at?


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Old 06-13-2015, 02:55 PM   #22
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I fought cyano for a year when a giant old engineer goby died way back in my reef. Water exchanges helped a little. But I am not a fan of adding antibiotics and I thought my ATS would do the job, but P04 stayed up at .4ppm. I hate GFO, for several reasons I have described in lengthy detail, but I decided to try Rowaphos for the first time. Good news and bad news. I brought my P04 down to .08ppm, destroyed the cyano over about 60 days, but it also killed a couple of my favorite corals as the levels fluctuated. Just another example of how stability is the main factor in reef keeping. I keep Rowaphos tumbling in a reactor, it doesn't clump like GFO does and my levels are now once again stable. You have to eliminate the nutrient source to get rid of cyano for good.


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Old 06-14-2015, 01:40 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniperhank View Post
I still think turning the wet side so the closed area is in top will help.
What setting and percentage are you running at?


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Not sure what you mean? They are both at 100%.
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Old 06-14-2015, 01:41 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregcoyote View Post
I fought cyano for a year when a giant old engineer goby died way back in my reef. Water exchanges helped a little. But I am not a fan of adding antibiotics and I thought my ATS would do the job, but P04 stayed up at .4ppm. I hate GFO, for several reasons I have described in lengthy detail, but I decided to try Rowaphos for the first time. Good news and bad news. I brought my P04 down to .08ppm, destroyed the cyano over about 60 days, but it also killed a couple of my favorite corals as the levels fluctuated. Just another example of how stability is the main factor in reef keeping. I keep Rowaphos tumbling in a reactor, it doesn't clump like GFO does and my levels are now once again stable. You have to eliminate the nutrient source to get rid of cyano for good.


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I've been running ROWA since day one in my tank.
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Old 06-14-2015, 03:06 PM   #25
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That should have done the trick. Sorry.


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Old 06-14-2015, 03:10 PM   #26
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Yeah, Im guessing it's just a flow issue now.I really don't know.
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Old 06-14-2015, 04:09 PM   #27
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Look at the wet side of the vortech. There is a solid plastic area and then grated area on the side. Make sure grated is down to get some minimal flow down there.

That said, depending on the setting 100% can still be lacking. What mode are they in? Even just saying the color will help.


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Old 06-14-2015, 04:51 PM   #28
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It varies during the day (reeflink) but it starts at 6AM in 100% Gyre until 10AM which it then goes to Nutrient transport mode, until 6PM. Next is reefcrest until 8PM, followed by tidal swell until 10PM then night mode.
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Old 06-14-2015, 06:34 PM   #29
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Mine just go on and off, I'm feeling technically being left behind...


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Old 06-14-2015, 08:38 PM   #30
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Ditch gyre. It is one of the ones that I don't see much water movement out of. That and short pulse. Originally liked them...until I was able to try out reef crest and tidal swell. I think the default reeflink sync for them is just that. Constant speed during lights out, but reef crest into tidal swell into lagoon before back to constant during lights out.
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