Those that have used chemiclean

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
I still think turning the wet side so the closed area is in top will help.
What setting and percentage are you running at?


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice
 
I fought cyano for a year when a giant old engineer goby died way back in my reef. Water exchanges helped a little. But I am not a fan of adding antibiotics and I thought my ATS would do the job, but P04 stayed up at .4ppm. I hate GFO, for several reasons I have described in lengthy detail, but I decided to try Rowaphos for the first time. Good news and bad news. I brought my P04 down to .08ppm, destroyed the cyano over about 60 days, but it also killed a couple of my favorite corals as the levels fluctuated. Just another example of how stability is the main factor in reef keeping. I keep Rowaphos tumbling in a reactor, it doesn't clump like GFO does and my levels are now once again stable. You have to eliminate the nutrient source to get rid of cyano for good.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice
 
I fought cyano for a year when a giant old engineer goby died way back in my reef. Water exchanges helped a little. But I am not a fan of adding antibiotics and I thought my ATS would do the job, but P04 stayed up at .4ppm. I hate GFO, for several reasons I have described in lengthy detail, but I decided to try Rowaphos for the first time. Good news and bad news. I brought my P04 down to .08ppm, destroyed the cyano over about 60 days, but it also killed a couple of my favorite corals as the levels fluctuated. Just another example of how stability is the main factor in reef keeping. I keep Rowaphos tumbling in a reactor, it doesn't clump like GFO does and my levels are now once again stable. You have to eliminate the nutrient source to get rid of cyano for good.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

I've been running ROWA since day one in my tank.
 
Look at the wet side of the vortech. There is a solid plastic area and then grated area on the side. Make sure grated is down to get some minimal flow down there.

That said, depending on the setting 100% can still be lacking. What mode are they in? Even just saying the color will help.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice
 
It varies during the day (reeflink) but it starts at 6AM in 100% Gyre until 10AM which it then goes to Nutrient transport mode, until 6PM. Next is reefcrest until 8PM, followed by tidal swell until 10PM then night mode.
 
Ditch gyre. It is one of the ones that I don't see much water movement out of. That and short pulse. Originally liked them...until I was able to try out reef crest and tidal swell. I think the default reeflink sync for them is just that. Constant speed during lights out, but reef crest into tidal swell into lagoon before back to constant during lights out.
 
Ditch gyre. It is one of the ones that I don't see much water movement out of. That and short pulse. Originally liked them...until I was able to try out reef crest and tidal swell. I think the default reeflink sync for them is just that. Constant speed during lights out, but reef crest into tidal swell into lagoon before back to constant during lights out.

So what do you recommend as far as settings go?
 
Well, I moved down the other MP40. I still have growth on the sandbed, but it's patchy now. The rocks "appear" to be clear. If it is a nutrient issue, I have no idea where it's coming from. I have probably "changed" the entire 200+ gallons of water through all my water changes and only feed once a day.
 
I'm amazed. When I have used it, every bit of visual cyano disappeared within a few days. One time, it was a customers tank that had a half inch blanket of it over everything.
 
Back
Top Bottom