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Old 08-02-2014, 11:24 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by DI68 View Post
I am using API test kits and a hydrometer. I was doing fortnightly wc and just once stretched it to 3wks with the larger tank-testing all the while. I am doing my 3rd wc in as little as 10days right now. Replacing with RODI at the moment, dripping around 40-50 litres to bring the SG down.


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Just to make sure, but you're not dropping salinity on a tank that contains live rock, corals, inverts, or a copper treatment are you?

Hyposalinity kills inverts and coral including many of the things that are on live rock such as sponges which could cause a huge ammonia spike.

Combining hyposalinity with copper is also deadly for fish.
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Old 08-02-2014, 12:07 PM   #22
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No I have set up a separate QT tank with bare bottom....no rock


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Old 08-07-2014, 10:17 AM   #23
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Update.....Well after the sailfin looking ok again , I reduced the SG further as still too high and he broke out in major cysts and tonight was hyperventilating. I checked the SG again and it was 1.011. Still work to do on that. Nitrates a bit high but nitrites out the window so applied emergency meds to eliminate the toxicity of any nitrates, nitrites, ammonia and chlorine. 2hrs later and he is dead. Don't know if it was the nitrites or meds. Am turned right off the hobby at this moment. But at least my mandarins have come good again in the DT and my clarki is full of life after I reduced the SG in that tank within a healthy range. Lost my anthea, a dartfish, dotty back,banner and bi colour goby in the process. Not buying any more fish for that tank or trying hyposalinity again. If I finish setting up my 250litre, I will be QT everything first!


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Old 08-07-2014, 11:53 AM   #24
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The issue going on in your tank is two fold at this point. You have ich in your tank. The cysts you saw on your sailfin is just one of the life stages of this. Another is where it matures in the sandbed before swimming up to infect your fish. Most likely your other fish were infected, as you can only tell that this is the case during the cyst phase. A tank needs to be fallow for 6-8 weeks to ensure it is ich free.

A healthy fish doesn't get overwhelmed by ich. If your tank has any readings of ammonia or nitrite, these are toxic and deadly. So are nitrates, but only over 40. You need to keep up with your nitrates levels with water changes.
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Old 08-11-2014, 07:40 PM   #25
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Another thing is your hydrometer. These are inaccurate and could be off by enough to cause your entire problem. You need a refractometer.
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Old 08-17-2014, 07:52 AM   #26
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Through proven treatment for you...which is better-copper or hypo salinity tr...

I have a refractometer and am doing weekly water changes in the DT, siphoning the sand as well. I have gotten to the point where I am maintaining the DT and waiting. The problem with white eyes has disappeared once I dropped the SG and my clown is looking healthy again. I am not attempting QT treatments anymore as it has resulted in certain death with each fish. I am more concerned with my mandarins pulling through in the DT..


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