Tim's 54 Gallon Corner -> Going Reef

[cabezon]

He probably used to fit in that hole. :-(

Another thing I use is a fluval 405 filled with floss to help do a massive filtration. You definitely have something wrong with this dust cloud. If you were near tampa I would lend you a couple.

[TLTGF]

That's what I'm saying - if this was the worst of it... then I'm all good - Just hate to see such beautiful corals lying on their sides.

Luckily for me I only have (7) total!

[cabezon]

Nothing worse than seeing your $40 acan covered in sand.

[TLTGF]

Well... looks like at the cost of a chromis, I may be closer to finding the culprit that is wiping out my tank.

Please look at this fish and let me know if you know what this is.

The chromis is covered in an orange / red / pink patch.

He is currently in the QT.

[Gregcoyote]

That fish is bleeding under the skin, could be from injury, or disease.

[TLTGF]

Update:

Here is what I have found / been told:

Ammo - 0
Trites - 0
Trates - 20

PH - 7.8 (taken 1st thing before lights kicked on) Testing again tonight.
Alk - 273

Salinity - 1.023

Temp - 80F

Went to LFS and spoke with owner - extremely knowledgable about everything I've ever asked.

He stated that my pH is on the low side, but he would expect a small swing 8.2-7.8 during the night when the corals and algae start making their own food and using oxygen and producing CO2... I'll buy that.

However he did say that my alk was just outside the range on the low side, so he recommended seachem buffer, which I got and dosed.

I also picked up a API Master kit, so I actually had my own pH kit.

Furthermore, he stated that the signs, symptoms that I was facing in his opinion would not be caused by anything to do with any readings that he got from the water. He did state however that it sounded like a bacterial infection commonly found in Green Chromis. He also stated that USUALLY it doesn't transfer to other fish, however, it is possible.

He also stated that there could have been factors that led to stress which caused the infections to show up more quickly.

His advice was to monitor all the fish very carefully for anything out of the ordinary. Act accordingly. He also stated that he wanted me to test my pH tonight after a full day of lights on, and ensure that it is up to 8.2. He stated to call him if not, and we would look to a plan of action.

Any thoughts?

[rob_mango]

From everything I have researched if ur p.h. is at 7.8 -8.3 there is nothing wrong with that although 8.3 is recommended so I would say dose the buffer but dot get to worried if it don't reach 8.3

[Gregcoyote]

Do this very slowly. When adding the buffer, watch your Kh and Ph readings, monitor a few hours after you add the buffer. Lots of people use different chemicals to affect Ph and Kh, but in the end it becomes a balance with Calcium. Older reefs can acidify and need more buffer. My 20 year old reef needed buffer when I didn't do a good job of vacuuming detritus last year. Once I did that clean up, my buffer needs went pretty much away.

[TLTGF]

Update / Question:

It's been (5) days since my last post, and knock on wood, everything seems to be going well. None of my remaining fish have showed or exibited ANY strange behaviors. Everyone is eating well, my sixline is very very active all day long, the chromis still hide out when I'm not sitting in front of the aquarium, and the diamond is a sand sifting hot mess.

Question:

Equipment - my PH started making noise at about 3:00a, like a rattling / vibrating sound. I tapped the magnent holding it on, and it stopped, started, and stopped for about 30 minutes and then back to ultra quiet.

The only thing I've noticed is that the PH's are getting covered in brown algae and whatever else - whats the best way to clean them?

Thanks!

[carey]

I take mine out and scrub them in hot water with those long brushes they sell for cleaning aquarium tubing. If its a koralia I take it apart and scrub in there as well.