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Old 04-30-2010, 09:24 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by mrg02d View Post
Yeap, 20g. MH is more than I can spend anyways. T5 was a splurge for me. :-(

I dont want them to grow like crazy, (no space for a large colony), just want to make sure they arent dying.

I have no idea what kind they are (I really should ask more questions before buying!). I was warned that acros are tricky! Google makes me believe the green one is called Green Acropora and they seem to be a slow growing kind. I didnt even try to look up the other since there seem to be countless purple brown acros.

Maybe I should switch to 14000k bulbs? Theres only 6in of water above them now.

A side question: I have a xenia problem. Can I use some aiptasia control products to kill them? I yanked a ton out last week and had the xenias start a nuclear war. There are more in places that I cant get my hands into easily enough to yank. They are taking up good spots for better corals!

Matt
You can consider swapping out your actinic T5 bulbs for ATI Blue Plus bulbs. They are still blue so you tank will still look nice, but they have useful PAR lighting and typically the actinics do not. Many T5 reefers are using these with no actinics.
As far as identifing those two acros....good luck. That can be extremely hard to do for certain species, even the experts can have a hard time differentiating different types of acropora while it is alive.
If I were you I would raise the SG to 1.025 or 1.026 (do you use a calibrated refractometer?)
and I would switch out the actinic bulbs for ATI Blue Plus bulbs.
Some Acros just need time before they feel comfortable and start to grow. One month isn't really that long. You will typically see growth on the base first.
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Old 04-30-2010, 09:27 PM   #12
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Oops, Didnt read the 20g.

Still, T5HO will not grow acro's no where near as good as MH.
althou i will let other people who know lighting better then me clrify this comment but im not sure its accurate. but my only reasoning behind this is with t5 you get more bulb combos. you can mix and match to get growth and color.it just takes more bulbs and you cant do it with cheap ones.
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Old 04-30-2010, 09:32 PM   #13
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Hello,
Good tips guys! ATI blue plus bulbs, here I come! I hate that those actinics dont contribute to anything but aesthetics. The reflector is a single reflector bent such that each bulb has its own reflecting region. (Current Sundial fixture).

My salinity is actually half way between 1.025 and 1.026 when I checked with my hydrometer. (Yea, I need to get a refractometer). I figure this is good enough for salinity, no?

How does my flow sound? I am trying to cure some live rock rubble I got so I borrowed my tanks Koralia 1 power head. So now its just 700GPH flow in my 20g tank. The Koralia 2 is pointing to the top if the water right above the acros. No idea if this is creating enough flow for them.
EDIT: I checked the bulbs that I am using and the actinics are actually 460nm, which is a blue wavelenght. (wavepoint bluewave bulbs). Might these be fine then? They are called actinics, but their wavelenght peaks at 460nm.

Matt
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Old 04-30-2010, 09:47 PM   #14
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This is not entirely accurate. A lot depends on the reflectors
Yes, Ofcourse.
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Old 04-30-2010, 09:50 PM   #15
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althou i will let other people who know lighting better then me clrify this comment but im not sure its accurate. but my only reasoning behind this is with t5 you get more bulb combos. you can mix and match to get growth and color.it just takes more bulbs and you cant do it with cheap ones.
Ofcourse you can have more bulbs and what not, But MH will give you better growth.
A 150w-250w (High above the tank cause its 20g) with a 14k bulb, You will get better growth then t5's.
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Old 04-30-2010, 09:51 PM   #16
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Hello,
Good tips guys! ATI blue plus bulbs, here I come! I hate that those actinics dont contribute to anything but aesthetics. The reflector is a single reflector bent such that each bulb has its own reflecting region. (Current Sundial fixture).

My salinity is actually half way between 1.025 and 1.026 when I checked with my hydrometer. (Yea, I need to get a refractometer). I figure this is good enough for salinity, no?

How does my flow sound? I am trying to cure some live rock rubble I got so I borrowed my tanks Koralia 1 power head. So now its just 700GPH flow in my 20g tank. The Koralia 2 is pointing to the top if the water right above the acros. No idea if this is creating enough flow for them.

Matt
Ive got my ATI 80w Blue Plus showing up today once the UPS driver gets here. (I use it with my halides)
I say get the refractometer even before you change out your actinics. I bet your salinity is off if you are using a hydrometer. When I used a hydrometer it read 1.025 and when I got a refractometer it showed I was really at 1.022. Get a refractometer and calibration solution too. I have this: Marine Depot Aquarium Refractometer
and this: American Marine Pinpoint Salinity Calibration Fluid
Your flow sounds like enough to me, just make sure it is NOT direct flow.
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Old 04-30-2010, 10:02 PM   #17
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MRG,

first, i would say from what i am seeing your doing a great job!

Here's a few idea's to try...

1) do large weekly water changes, after about 2 weeks you will be surprised at how well you tank looks. Also, it will just about rid you of your phosphate and nitrate problems if you are using nice clean RODI water (if your not, that could be part of your problem). By doing larger water changes each week, you will keep the coral's supplied with the trace elements they need to survive and grow.

* i have a 10g nano and do 50% water changes every sat.

2) Flow... i cant express enough how important this is.. the only way your corals can grow,eat, and release waste is through flow! I would suggest 10-15 times your tank vol.

* again i have a 10g and a vortech Eco MP10 set on 1/2 of its power.. roughy 700-900 gph

3) Lighting.. you say you want growth? well, by changing your water daily and a good 10K bulb you will see great growth over a few months. MH is not as much as people think.. you can get a nice set up for around 200$. Dont get me wrong T5s are great lights, i had one on my 55g and got rid of it because of my corals...just didn't see the results i wanted.

If i were you i would keep doing what your doing and just bump up your water changes and see if that helps some... i am sure you will see improvements in all parts of your tank.

GOOD LUCK! and keep the pictures coming !
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Old 04-30-2010, 10:09 PM   #18
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I have no advice on the coral just interested really, but I do also agree you should switch to a refractometer. My hydrometer showed 1.025 and refractometer showed 1.031 It wasnt even close.
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Old 04-30-2010, 10:10 PM   #19
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By the way.. how much LR do you currently have in your 20g?
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Old 04-30-2010, 10:33 PM   #20
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I would personally suggest a maxspect over a halide for a tank that small. On my 180G tank, 2x 250W and a 400W halide raise the temperature of the tank 6 degrees without fans working. Even with, 2 degree rise. A maxspect 60W led is $168.
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