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Old 04-30-2010, 10:59 PM   #21
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Ive got about 25lbs of rock right now, and will be adding a bit more. LED lighting, eh? Seems better to wait on that technology to get cheaper, better first. I could likely build something similar. (Getting my major in electrical engineering). Just need to find the actual high power LED array and the rest is just a current controller.

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Old 05-01-2010, 12:39 AM   #22
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a 150 watt over your 20g would do great.. i dont see any major temp fluctuation in my 10g and i have my light about 3 inches from the surface. Keep good surface movement and you wont need any fan.

and yes there are several lights out there thats nice and would do good for what your looking to do, pending you have the pockets for it.
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Old 05-01-2010, 12:40 AM   #23
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also, thats a nice amount of LR for your set-up, you should be good with that.

Got any good critters? snails, hermits, ect...?
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Old 05-01-2010, 04:23 AM   #24
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Hello,
Yeap, good amount of live rock. I have snails, hermits, emerald crabs, a pom pom crab, and a cleaner shrinp (skunk).

No funds for MH, unless its possible to build one. Might it possible to just buy a bulb, reflector, and a ballast? I dont understand why these 150W MH setups goes for over $200.00 when it looks like a street lamp.

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Old 05-01-2010, 10:49 AM   #25
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MRG,

yes, it is alot cheaper to build a light... heres some links...


Metal Halide Reef Aquarium Lighting: IceCap Metal Halide PAR Pendant Fixture
This is a complete set up and only 70Watts, with your 20 gallon thats 3.5 watts per gallon. 3.5 watts is on the lower side IMO but would still do good.


Hamilton HQI Reefstar Lighting System
This is another set up... includes everything.. little more then 200 but if you googled it i am sure you can find a little cheaper.
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Old 05-01-2010, 01:01 PM   #26
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Good thread. First of all your "Actinic" is NOT a true Actinic bulb. True Actinic peaks at 420nm, and that is what you should be looking for to help coral growth.
Everyting else looks pretty good. As previoulsy stated, growth will usually start at the base and it takes a few weeks for a coral to acclimate to the tank.
When getting new corals you should try to find out what lighting they were under and light acclimate them accordingly. Generally you want to start them low in the tank and move them up over time. With your lighting that is probably not a problem.
Corals do need lots of flow. Get another powerhead so you can always have two in the tank to create a chaotic water flow. You want the flow to wash back and forth across the coral vs. having it always come from one side.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Congrats on keeping the water parameters in check in a small tank, BUT a refractometer is a MUST HAVE IMO. I still have a swing arm in my aquarium spare parts/junk box, but I won't even give it away. It's just there to remind me... <g>.
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Old 05-01-2010, 03:57 PM   #27
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MH is still too much for me. I will keep a lookout on ebay though, maybe something of good quality will pop up. How about those Viper MH lights? I like that idea of them...

Yeap, my water is clean. I am always trying to keep it cleaner as I HATE to scrub off the brown whispy algae that forms every day. I figure cleaner water will equal less algae. Now my new chaeto needs to start doing the work!

I have an actinic bulb that peaks at 420nm if that would be better than the 460nm ones I have now. Should I swap them?

The corals I get come from MH+T5 lighting. They are all in different tanks with both MH over them and T5. Very bright in that place! Im sure my tank was a shock in the wrong direction for them, but then again they are now much closer to bulbs than at the LFS.

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Old 05-02-2010, 02:32 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrg02d View Post
MH is still too much for me. I will keep a lookout on ebay though, maybe something of good quality will pop up. How about those Viper MH lights? I like that idea of them...

Yeap, my water is clean. I am always trying to keep it cleaner as I HATE to scrub off the brown whispy algae that forms every day. I figure cleaner water will equal less algae. Now my new chaeto needs to start doing the work!

I have an actinic bulb that peaks at 420nm if that would be better than the 460nm ones I have now. Should I swap them?

The corals I get come from MH+T5 lighting. They are all in different tanks with both MH over them and T5. Very bright in that place! Im sure my tank was a shock in the wrong direction for them, but then again they are now much closer to bulbs than at the LFS.

Matt
I think with the right bulb configuration and coral placement you will be fine for now with what you have. I used to run all VHOs and I had sps which grew and held color. Theoretically what you have now should be more PAR than VHOs. If you had extra money to spend then you should go with a "high end" Halide system (ballast,bulb,reflector) or a "high end" T5HO system with individual reflectors on each bulb or an ATI system and be done with it. Or as you know there has been lots of talk about LED systems. I will probably switch to LED someday, but not yet. Right now it seems like there are always advances coming out since it is a new technology for reef keeping. Plus I assume the prices will come down eventually just like they did for Plasma/LCD TVs.
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Old 05-02-2010, 06:06 PM   #29
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Yea id love a nice MH setup, but it looks like a decent one with supplimental actinic lighting will cost a few hundred. Thats too much for now, but down the road Im sure I will splurge on one when $$$ permits.

I should get that Koralia 1 back in the tank I guess shouldnt I? Do you think my live rock rubble will cure without flow? I could stir the water a few times a day. I just dont want to have to spend another 35$-$40 for a powerhead that I wont need. (My little 20g is looking cluttered with all the "stuff" in there such as powerheads,heater, thermometer, algea scrubbers, filter input and output, and my eggcrate chaeto holder.

The live rock rubble was fully cured when sent to me, but a few days in the mail wiped out the coralline and caused a 0.25ppm Ammonia spike in the bucket I put the stuff in. (Knew better than to put into the DT )
Shouldnt be too hard to re cure this stuff. The rocks were clean as a bone. Im guessing the ammonia is from dead bacteria.

Those LED systems look nice, but SOOOooooo $$$$! If I could find a good source for the LEDs, I could build a system with plexiglas sheets, aluminum heatsinks, and my circuit building skills for so much less. But getting a 12000K 3W LED is not easy. And then Id need 30 of them with some other colors mixed in
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Old 05-02-2010, 06:27 PM   #30
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Try a maxi jet for your curing tank.. a 900 should be less then 20 bucks. just an idea
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