torch coral

[MROLFE82]

my torch coral is not doing well. I seem to be able to keep torch corals about a year and then the began to slowly die. I do have a level of 50ppm nitrates that I am trying to get down. This is a recent rise. My tank is 6 years old and I have not had problems until now. I just tested and here are the results; [acronym:3f3b92a3ff="power head or Measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions, depending on context"]PH[/acronym:3f3b92a3ff] 8.3, Ammonia 00.0, Nitrites 0.00, Nitrates 40ppm, salinity 1.022, and temp 78. I use reef complete calcium, coral vital, reef iodide. reef complete reef essentials, and add buffers as needed, along with a 25% water change monthly. I run the lights for 12 hours per day.

Any and all replys will be appreciated!!!

mike

[lando]

Welcome to AquariumAdvice.com!!!
[acronym:13d9b89d77="Nitrate"]NO3[/acronym:13d9b89d77] is certainly high for a reef tank. Are you able to post [acronym:13d9b89d77="Alkinity"]ALK[/acronym:13d9b89d77], [acronym:13d9b89d77="Calcium"]CA[/acronym:13d9b89d77], [acronym:13d9b89d77="Phosphate"]PO4[/acronym:13d9b89d77] and Iodine levels? I would say your immediate challenge is to get the [acronym:13d9b89d77="Nitrate"]NO3[/acronym:13d9b89d77] down to an acceptable level. High [acronym:13d9b89d77="Nitrate"]NO3[/acronym:13d9b89d77] is most commonly caused by over-stocking and over-feeding. Can you please list your tank's size, livestock and feeding schedule (what you feed and how often)? What type of filtration do you have? I would increase water changes to 15-20% once a week using a high-quality [acronym:13d9b89d77="Reverse osmosis"]RO[/acronym:13d9b89d77]/[acronym:13d9b89d77="Deionization"]DI[/acronym:13d9b89d77] water. You can stop dosing any additives or suppliments during this time.

[MROLFE82]

Thanks for the reply! Tank size is 75 gallon bow front. I feed frozen mysis shrimp small cube daily, along with prime reef flake food. Then once or twice a week i feed frozen bloodworms. I have a undertank sump with 500 bioballs in it and a seaclone 100 protien skimmer. I will test for the other levels tou requested and post them later.

mike

[lando]

Do you thaw and rinse the frozen food in [acronym:a287be5445="Reverse osmosis"]RO[/acronym:a287be5445]/[acronym:a287be5445="Deionization"]DI[/acronym:a287be5445] water before putting it in the main? The liquid in the frozen food can pollute a tank very quickly. I would cut back feedings to once every other day. Light feedings. The bioballs may also be part of the problem. They have a tendency to catch detritus which, in turn, can cause [acronym:a287be5445="Nitrate"]NO3[/acronym:a287be5445] to climb. Better option would be to replace them with [acronym:a287be5445="Live rock"]LR[/acronym:a287be5445] rubble. What fish are currently in the tank? How much [acronym:a287be5445="Live rock"]LR[/acronym:a287be5445] in the tank?

You have not described exactly how these corals are meeting their end. Could you provide a brief description of appearance and behavior?

Originally Posted by lando

Are you able to post [acronym:f1d3afdc6b="Alkinity"]ALK[/acronym:f1d3afdc6b], [acronym:f1d3afdc6b="Calcium"]CA[/acronym:f1d3afdc6b], [acronym:f1d3afdc6b="Phosphate"]PO4[/acronym:f1d3afdc6b] and Iodine levels?

Cheers
Steve

[MROLFE82]

I never thought about rinising the food in R,O water first, so I will do that from now on and cut back on feedings. The fish int he tank right now are a 7 inch 6 year old yellow striped maroon clown, a mandarin goby that is fat from eating the mysis shrimp and the bristle worms in the tank, and a blue damsel that is about three inchs long.
When the corals start to fail, they start to open less fully over a long period of time and slowly the polyps start to become fewer and fewer. They will look great all day and then when the lights come back on in the morning, the polyps will look deflated and gray in color, and will take half the day to began to look normal again.

thanks!!

mike

Sounds more likely to be either a chemistry issue, which you have not yet posted the results for, the excessive nitrates or both.

Unless you actually saw some brown jelly like material encompassing the coral crowns, I'm more likely to suspect the chemistry.

Cheers
Steve

[lando]

I believe brown jelly infrctions kill corals very rapidly, you would be less-likely to see a slow demise in appearence. I am betting on water chemistry as well, I suspect the high [acronym:17177ef79a="Nitrate"]NO3[/acronym:17177ef79a] level may be a major player in the problem. Work hard over the next few weeks with water changes to get the [acronym:17177ef79a="Nitrate"]NO3[/acronym:17177ef79a] down. Again...how much [acronym:17177ef79a="Live rock"]LR[/acronym:17177ef79a] is in the tank?

[seaham358]

what type of water are you using? Tap or [acronym:7f01220e9f="Reverse osmosis"]ro[/acronym:7f01220e9f]/[acronym:7f01220e9f="Deionization"]di[/acronym:7f01220e9f]...what type of lighting and how often do you change out the bulbs. have you tested for [acronym:7f01220e9f="Phosphate"]po4[/acronym:7f01220e9f] and silicates? As you know high [acronym:7f01220e9f="Nitrate"]no3[/acronym:7f01220e9f] is not good for corals.

[MROLFE82]

I am running power compacts at a total of 470 watts for 12 hours a day. Calcium is 600ppm, [acronym:46b3fcc9ec="Alkinity"]alk[/acronym:46b3fcc9ec] is 8.2 and I do not have a phosphate test kit.
Iuse 50% tap water and 50% [acronym:46b3fcc9ec="Reverse osmosis"]ro[/acronym:46b3fcc9ec] on the advice of the [acronym:46b3fcc9ec="Local Fish Store"]LFS[/acronym:46b3fcc9ec].