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Old 03-23-2015, 12:29 PM   #1
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Upgrade advice

Like everyone else, I wish I had started started with a bigger tank. I am soon to be buying a tank with a sump. I have a few questions I was hoping you guys may be able to help with?

1) Do I need a new sand bed? I have read the old one should be scrapped?

2) can I use some of the current tank water or does it all have to be new?

3) I've seen people with heaters only in the sump, will that heat the whole tank?

Sorry for the dumb questions lol


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Old 03-23-2015, 12:36 PM   #2
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Ditch the old sand and water. No reason to bring nitrates into a new system.
You can keep a heater in the sump to warm all of the water in your system.


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Old 03-23-2015, 12:46 PM   #3
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It seems impossible for the heater to heat the whole tank from down there!
I plan to hold the fish in a bucket with a heater while I transfer everything over, would that be okay?


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Old 03-23-2015, 01:53 PM   #4
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That'll be just fine...


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Old 03-23-2015, 04:08 PM   #5
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Perfect thanks. Kinda scared of the sump, it looks complicated


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Old 03-23-2015, 04:14 PM   #6
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It's just another tank, what is so scary?
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Old 03-23-2015, 04:35 PM   #7
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I changed a plug once. My dryer caught fire. I'm sure there's a plumbing version of this kind of disaster!


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Old 03-23-2015, 09:37 PM   #8
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haha i can relate. I just went from 29g Biocube to a 90g with a 30g sump. Plumbing a sump isnt as hard as it seems. The basics are easy, it looks complicated when you see people with reactors and dosers and ATO and split returns etc, but all that is extra and can be added later.

Remember valves and unions are your friends.
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Old 03-24-2015, 05:43 AM   #9
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This tank is pre drilled and comes with the overflow, all you have to do is add the pipe work. I'll probably go for flexi pipe. What kind of pipe work is best?


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Old 03-24-2015, 09:26 AM   #10
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My tank came the same way. I hard plumbed mine, I think it looks neater. I didn't add it to mine, but some systems have a section of flexi line in the return side to reduce vibration and noise.

My advice is to take your bulk head, your return pump's nozzle and your measurements to the hardware store. You will end up needing more parts than you think. Once you have the pipes roughed out, add in 2 unions and 2 valves (gate is better than ball), 1 each for return and drain side. These are important if you ever need to replace a pump or your entire sump, as well as equalizing flow on the return side.

As for the PVC, if you have a PVC cutter, they are so much more convenient than a saw. Also save the scrap PVC, great for building racks to raise your skimmer, to make frag racks, to hold certain LPS etc.


As a side note, something that I overlooked or didn't find, do not use acrylic baffles in a glass sump. I had no idea acrylic swelled in water.
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