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Old 01-20-2015, 01:49 PM   #1
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Upgrade Time!! 40B build

Well, the WAF (wife acceptance factor) of my 20 has reached the point where she wants to not only relocate the reef tank, but make it bigger. (Bigger is better, she says...hahaha)

I've ordered a 40 breeder tank and stand from my LFS for a price I couldn't refuse. I plan on utilizing the HOB skimmer and filter (I run phosguard and RoX carbon in it) from the existing tank. I will need a bigger heater.

A few questions:
1. Will my two Hydor Nano 425s provide enough flow? If not, would the Evolution 600s suffice? I use the Hydor smartwave to alternate the pumps and vary the flow, so they aren't on at the same time.

2. (You knew this was coming...) A sump. I know the more water, the better, but is a sump considered "required" for a 40? If so, would my existing 20 (high, not long) be sufficient? I also have a 10 gallon tank that could be used. I'd probably relocate the skimmer and HOB to the sump if I use one.

3. If I use a sump, is the BeanAnimal overflow overkill? Or would some other method be considered "better" for a 40?

Regarding the transfer from my existing 20 (which has some turf algae on the rock, so I'm going to use fresh dry rock from BRS), here's my plan:

1. Day 0
a. Set up new tank.
2. Day X (when I get the stuff)
a. Install circulation pumps, heater.
b. Add dry rock to tank.
c. Add water.
d. Cure for 6-8 weeks.
3. Day X+56
a. Remove water.
b. Aquascape rock
c. Add sand.
d. Add water.
e. Move clownfish, cleaner shrimp, pistol shrimp and goby to 40G.
f. Clean skimmer and HOB
g. Move skimmer, HOB, ATO to 40G.
h. Move electrical panel to 40G.
4. Day X+57
a. Remove water, rock, and sand from 20G tank.
b. Clean corals.
c. Quarantine corals until 0 PO4 and no algae.
5. Day X+Y (when the corals look algae free)
a. Move corals, snails, hermits.
The reason I'm QT'ing the corals is there is some algae on them, and I don't want it tranferred to the new tank. I already do large weekly PWCs (on the order of 10 gallons), and only feed twice a week, a single mysis to each fish (two clowns and a goby). I'm not sure where the turf algae is coming from, but I'd rather not start with it in the new tank.

Thoughts, suggestions, comments, criticisms?
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Old 01-21-2015, 03:57 PM   #2
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The 2 nano's will not be nearly enough flow. I would run the 600's but scrap the alternating wavemaker.

Yes, do a sump if possible! 20 gallon preferred over 10, as you can fit much more in it in terms of equipment and water volume.

In terms of overflow, on my 40 gallon, I did the glass holes 700gph overflow. Very simple and doesn't take up much space...
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Old 01-21-2015, 04:05 PM   #3
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Thanks. I will keep the nanos in the QT tank so I have some flow in there.

WRT the overflow, what kind of failsafes, if any, does the glass-holes overflow have? Also, is it gurgly/noisy?
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Old 01-21-2015, 04:09 PM   #4
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Quiet as long as the drain is under the surface of the water level in the sump. Really not too many failsafes needed. I used the Eshoppes flex tubing for the drain line and braided tubing for the return to a dual locline nozzle. As long as you leave enough room in the sump in case of a power outage for everything that will drain out, you're all set. You can drill a hole in the return nozzle just under the water surface (what most people will do) or what I did is set up the nozzles so they're just barely under the surface of the water. The water will be drained out of the line well before the rest of the water over the overflow box line has drained...
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Old 01-21-2015, 04:10 PM   #5
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Old 01-21-2015, 04:25 PM   #6
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Thanks for the info. I still think I'm going to go w/ the BeanAnimal, since this thing will be in the family room...I want that peace of mind...

That being said, I might downsize from 1.5" to 1" on the siphons...
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Old 01-21-2015, 04:49 PM   #7
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Not familiar with that overflow, I just went as simple as possible... But I would imagine 2 1" siphons would be plenty.
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Old 01-21-2015, 04:57 PM   #8
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Why not add sand and dryrock right away? I don't know why you'd wait 56 days then remove the water and add sand. The sand will help the cycle by being covered in nitrifying bacteria. I'd do sand and dry rock day one. Also, you will go through a diatom bloom so why not get that over right away rather than waiting 2 months, adding sand then going through it...

Just a thought.
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Old 01-21-2015, 06:13 PM   #9
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My bad...that was a copy and paste error.

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Old 01-24-2015, 02:21 PM   #10
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So here's my plan, in addition to the timeline above (and moving the add sand to the cure/cycle part)...

The existing 20 will be my sump. Not sure if I'm going to make chambers or not, but I'm guessing at least 2 will be needed. I'm going to modify my existing HOB skimmer for use in the sump by extending the intake and output lines so the water level in the sump doesn't need to be so high.

I'm going to relocate the heater and the HOB filter box into the sump as well. However, I'm considering getting rid of the HOB filter altogether, and placing my carbon/phosguard pouches at the bottom of the overflow lines.

WRT the overflow, I'm not going to do a full C2C for the BeanAnimal. I will use 1.25" lines for all 3 siphons. My only question is what flow rate should my return pump have? I have to take the following into consideration:
- My corals, right now, are primarily LPS (hammer, torch, frogspawn). I have acans, zoas, duncans and birdsnest as well. What flow should these guys have? I don't want them getting torn apart in current. I was going to use 2 of the Hydor Koralia 600 pumps in tandem in the tank. There will be approx 4ft of head on the return line. I was thinking about the Syncra 2.0 (Sicce Syncra Silent 2.0 Pump (568 GPH) - Bulk Reef Supply) Based on the specs (Log In) it looks like the 2.0 can do approx 350gph at 4ft. Is this enough?
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Old 01-24-2015, 02:34 PM   #11
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Also, WRT the sump design, I'm thinking this would work.



(credit to zoidberg at ReefSanctuary for this design).

Since my skimmer is a HOB, it wouldn't be in the first chamber, but would intake and output into that chamber...
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Old 01-28-2015, 01:30 PM   #12
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w00t...the pump on my HOB skimmer (a Sicce PSK200 pump) is submersible. I'm going to pull the intake line off, and rotate the output 90 degrees so it outputs over the first baffle.

Speaking of baffles..I should get on those and get the acrylic.
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Old 01-30-2015, 02:41 PM   #13
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I've settled on the Jebao RW-4 powerheads. I will get two of those. Combined with the Sicce 3.0 return, that should provide plenty of movement.

I'm doing exhaustive (exhausting?) research on the BeanAnimal overflow. Definitely the method I'm going with. I'm an engineer, I'm all about failsafe. I'll be using Formufit colored PVC pipe for the sections that will be visible.

Next on the list...getting the acrylic for the baffles and spray painting the back of the tank.
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Old 01-31-2015, 05:09 PM   #14
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Here's my plan on the drain and overflow box:


Should I make the box longer? Also, one or two return lines?
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Old 02-10-2015, 03:02 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmolavi View Post
Here's my plan on the drain and overflow box:


Should I make the box longer? Also, one or two return lines?

Are you DIY'ing your overflow box?
Any reason you have three huge overflow holes?

If I were you I would get one from glass-holes.com - even comes with the template and drilling guide and bulkheads.

This one would work: http://www.glass-holes.com/700-gph-O...t-gh700kit.htm

I don't think you're gonna need overflow holes that big or that many. I'm going with two 1.5" bulkheads for my 75G.

I think you could get away with that overflow kit and one drain line. I'd go one overflow and use 1.5" PVC. Should be plenty.

As for the number of returns I think it's up to you, I'm splitting mine up the return line and doing two.
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Old 02-10-2015, 08:25 AM   #16
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It's the BeanAnimal Overflow. Read all about it BeanAnimal's Bar and Grill - Silent and Fail-Safe Overflow System
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Old 02-10-2015, 05:43 PM   #17
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Hmm! Learn something new every day
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Old 02-12-2015, 10:16 AM   #18
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I used the Herbie method for my plumbing which had a emergency pipe in the overflow box that will drain a littkecwster but not much and a inline check valve which will stop water drawing into the sump from the return hose. Look up the Herbie method before you make any decisions.

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Old 07-20-2015, 10:29 AM   #19
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Yay! Progress!!

I've drilled the tank, fabricated the overflow, mounted and sealed the overflow, done a leak test (all passed), and did a dry fit of the plumbing. Just gotta wait for the humidity to drop a little so I can cement the plumbing together, add the baffles to my sump, and start the cycle and cure.






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Old 08-03-2015, 09:27 AM   #20
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Plumbing is all cemented and installed. Just need to get my sump finished, and run the return line. Finally...progress!!
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