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Old 09-25-2010, 11:49 AM   #11
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I mix mine in a large 33G garbage can. Once it`s filled up with RO/DI water I put in a heater and a pump and start adding salt. Each time I add salt I wait a couple of hours for it to mix and stabilize before checking SG and possibly adding a little more salt.
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Old 09-25-2010, 03:19 PM   #12
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Yes it looks like we all employ the same when it comes to mixing salt water.
I was wondering if my LFS mixed salt water was different enough to make my sps's and lps's suffer or as some did die.

I am thinking the next potential thing that did go hayware was my CA reactor. I remember right before I left on my trip it stopped dripping. As always I opened up the lines and let it run for a half hour then slowly turned it down to about 65 drops per minute. Unfortunatley I never checked the CO2 drops per minute.
I STILL haven't tested the effluent. This is next. Of course late but at least I will know what it is at the moment.
Thanks for your help guys.
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Old 09-26-2010, 10:08 AM   #13
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If there were problems it would be how long the water mix was left to sit at the LFS. If it wasn't constantly agitated and topped up you could end up with some nasty stuff in it.
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Old 09-26-2010, 12:28 PM   #14
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If there were problems it would be how long the water mix was left to sit at the LFS. If it wasn't constantly agitated and topped up you could end up with some nasty stuff in it.
I'm not sure I'm tracking with you here. I work at an LFS (SW only) and we sell salt water and ro/di water. Each container holds 300 gallons. We have to have our RO/DI unit running all day long to keep the FW full. We also have to make SW morning and night to keep up with the SW demand. Water doesn't "sit" around at most LFSs that sell it.

Also not sure about what nasty stuff you are talking about.?
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Old 09-26-2010, 12:30 PM   #15
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Yes it looks like we all employ the same when it comes to mixing salt water.
I was wondering if my LFS mixed salt water was different enough to make my sps's and lps's suffer or as some did die.

I am thinking the next potential thing that did go hayware was my CA reactor. I remember right before I left on my trip it stopped dripping. As always I opened up the lines and let it run for a half hour then slowly turned it down to about 65 drops per minute. Unfortunatley I never checked the CO2 drops per minute.
I STILL haven't tested the effluent. This is next. Of course late but at least I will know what it is at the moment.
Thanks for your help guys.
If you aren't testing the effluent you need to either get that done or stop the CA reactor. You know the PH of the effluent is going to be around 6-6.5 and if you just pushing it into your system with no checks you could be dropping your PH. Just a FYI, I'm sure you knew that but just thought I would mention testing is important when you are potentially changing your PH.
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Old 09-26-2010, 07:28 PM   #16
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I'm not sure I'm tracking with you here. I work at an LFS (SW only) and we sell salt water and ro/di water. Each container holds 300 gallons. We have to have our RO/DI unit running all day long to keep the FW full. We also have to make SW morning and night to keep up with the SW demand. Water doesn't "sit" around at most LFSs that sell it.

Also not sure about what nasty stuff you are talking about.?
It's great that your store uses ro/di water and has a high turn around of it. That's something that you should advertise. I've never seen a chain store sell SW in anything other than what looked like pre-sealed milk jugs (4l types or 1G types). None of the SW only places around where I live sell pre-mixed SW.

As for nasty stuff: water kept for a prolonged period without proper agitation could end up with unwanted algae, ph can get thrown off, salinity can change. It would all depend on how the place was making that water, how they stored it, how long they keep it, what the water is kept in, how frequently they change ro/di filters, if they even use ro/di water, or if they always use the same salt mix.
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Old 09-27-2010, 03:17 AM   #17
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It's great that your store uses ro/di water and has a high turn around of it. That's something that you should advertise. I've never seen a chain store sell SW in anything other than what looked like pre-sealed milk jugs (4l types or 1G types). None of the SW only places around where I live sell pre-mixed SW.

As for nasty stuff: water kept for a prolonged period without proper agitation could end up with unwanted algae, ph can get thrown off, salinity can change. It would all depend on how the place was making that water, how they stored it, how long they keep it, what the water is kept in, how frequently they change ro/di filters, if they even use ro/di water, or if they always use the same salt mix.
I don't work for a chain store. I would never buy those jugs you see at petco or petsmart that say "ocean water" who the heck knows what's in there...

Algae, if you get algae growing in newly mixed salt water even if it has been sitting for a week then something is wrong with your salt mix, or the water you are using. Salinity isn't going to change if the container is sealed. The idea behind using RO/DI water is that it is 100% pure (or dang near it) RO membranes are good for 1-3 years. Most places that make and sell RO/DI water use Spectrapure industry grade filters which last even longer. My store uses a unit that makes 450 gallons per day. I can't speak for other stores only the one I'm affiliated with, we use IO salt mix and only IO salt mix for the water we make and sell. Not my personal preference but it is always what is used and it is always mixed to the same level and checked with a refractometer.

I don't know about anyone else but if I take the time to mix up new SW it's going to be used within a few days time.
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Old 09-29-2010, 11:45 PM   #18
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I use ph probes in both the effluent and the sump. The ph in the effluent is connected with a controller. It is set to come on if the ph rises to 7.0 and shuts off at 6.5.
The probe in the sump reads during the daylight hrs 8.23 to 8.24.
In the morning hours it reads 7.78 to 7.89. I will though watch that ph when I first get up in the morning to see how low it gets.
You may have something here.

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If you aren't testing the effluent you need to either get that done or stop the CA reactor. You know the PH of the effluent is going to be around 6-6.5 and if you just pushing it into your system with no checks you could be dropping your PH. Just a FYI, I'm sure you knew that but just thought I would mention testing is important when you are potentially changing your PH.
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Old 09-30-2010, 12:14 AM   #19
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I had one of the ladies that works at an LFS tell me that if you allow RO/DI water to sit and "mature" with proper agitation that the PH should rise.

I have a 30gal trash can that my RO/DI water sits in it has constant agitation and an air stone running. The water will sometimes sit in there for a week or so till I need it to make SW but i find that the PH in there is still very very low.

Is there any truth to the first statement??
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Old 09-30-2010, 04:04 PM   #20
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Interesting point Saave853.
I know I have not done a ph test on my RO water because it takes a 35 gallon garbage bin a few hours to fill. At the point it has enough water I start adding salt.

Does anyone test the ph in their RO water?

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I had one of the ladies that works at an LFS tell me that if you allow RO/DI water to sit and "mature" with proper agitation that the PH should rise.

I have a 30gal trash can that my RO/DI water sits in it has constant agitation and an air stone running. The water will sometimes sit in there for a week or so till I need it to make SW but i find that the PH in there is still very very low.

Is there any truth to the first statement??
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