Water quality issues

[sandmann2]

I need a second opinion on the advice that I am getting from someone on the Reef Tank site.

My problem started just before Christmas. All my water tests have been off. I have a 110g reef tank with approx 200 lbs of live rock. I am using the Fluval FX5 canister filter. 2 power heads, Coraline protein skimmer and Coraline 9 w UV sterilizer.

My biggest problem is with my nitrates. They are around 250 ppm. My daughter works in a waste water treatment plant had has taken water samples in for testing. The first set of results came yesterday.

Alk-106 mg/l
PH- 7.88
Salinity 1.025
Temp 80

I'm hoping that I get the rest of the results later today.

I was using tap water for WC and top ups adding a little prime each time. So with this problem I installed a 5 filter RO system. I have done several WC's since the end of Dec one being a 50% change. I did another WC yesterday. No luck the nitrates are still off the chart. I've python-ed the sand bed each time. The sand bed is about 1 1/2 in depth.

The advice from the other site is that I should get rid of my canister filter. I wondered if anyone else agreed with this.

 

[CaptainAhab]

maybe not get rid of but clean/change the sponges at least weekly. Also grab a TDS and check what's coming out of that RO too. If there's not DI it probably won't be 0. Check your feeding (too much , too often) and the quality (flake is the worst).

If you were really at 250 it will take a very long time to get into an acceptable range (30 or less). 250/2 = 125.. if you did another 50% that only gets you to 62,, another 50 to the 30's.. Not counting all the nitrates that are still being added.

If you have a sump, get some macro algae..

Some starting suggestions

 

[sandmann2]

So is a DI unit an addon to the RO system. I am using flake food. I am using the Formula Two brand. I feed 3 pinches every other day. In the off day I feed a chunk of frozen mysis shrimp. The problem with the nitrates is that even with the WC's the nitrates are not dropping. They are still reading at aroung 250 ppm. I was using the Red Sea test kit, then I bought the Seachem test kit with same result. I took a water sampe to my LFS and they used the Tetra test kit with the same result. I will get a TDS sample done as well.

 

[CaptainAhab]

250 is sooooo high, perhaps the reading is incorrect? or even worse.. perhaps higher than the test can read?

 

[sandmann2]

Yes that is what is happening. The Red Sea kit has 2 scales. 0-50 and 50-300 ppm. For the 0-50 range you use 5 ml and let the color develop. If it is over you then do another test this time using 1 ml add reagents and top up to 5 ml with distilled water. It is this second test that is giving me 250 ppm result.

The other test kits only go to 50 mg/l and the color is much darker than kit chart. That is way I sent samples with my daughter to check level at the water lab she works in, so I have very accurate results.

 

[austinsdad]

Are you testing the water from the faucet too? or from the RO system? Might not be the tank or any filters. Just wonderin'.

 

[sandmann2]

No I haven't tested the tape water or the RO water at this point. I am testing the tank water. I did do a test on just distilled water that I raised the salinity to 1.025 and temp 80. I did this to see if my test kits were bad. The result for all test they came back normal.

 

[austinsdad]

would still benefit to know what the tap or Ro water reads

 

[sandmann2]

Will have to get my daughter to do a test on the water later tonight as I am vacationing in Florida. So I will get back to you when I have the results.

Question I'm not sure if my RO is also a DI unit. What is the difference between the RO/DI system and a plain RO system. Can you add a DI unit to a RO unit and what would the cost be if you know.

Thanks

 

[thincat]

the DI unit just adds on the the RO unit and does not cost that much.
Here is a link to where I got my unit:
www.bulkreefsupply.com . search for RO/DI units..

 

[melosu58]

I work for a water municipality and I know that there is plenty of nitrates in different compound forms added to water. What would be best is to make a batch of SW and then do your water test results on that and it will let you know if you are adding it to your tank. Read this as far as tap water is involved.

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/jan2004/chem.htm

 

[CaptainAhab]

Adding a DI is easy.. buy a canister, media and 2 fittings.. take the output from your RO and attach to one end of the DI canister. out the other end comes the DI water.. add a fitting at the end and tube... Presto.. RO/DI..

Maybe check out airwaterice or any number of other sites.

 

[CaptainAhab]

Your in Canada right?

check this out.. I actually have their unit. but here is a DI add on stuff

Parts and Accessories : Aquasafe Canada, your source for water filtration

 

[yetee]

are you still using a primer even though you are using RO water? I know that some primers can give a false high nitrate reading. Just a thought.

 

[sandmann2]

no i am not using prime since i started using the RO.

 

[sandmann2]

CaptinAhab,

you say take the output from the RO unit. Do you mean the output line from the storage tank or put it in the line that goes to storage tank?

Thanks for everyones help, it is appreciated.
Terry

 

[sandmann2]

This is the type of RO system I have. It is the Easywell RO-405H model. I called the store where I purchased the system and they say that the unit needs to be modified in order to add the DI canister. They also said that this will increase my PH. Does anyone know if this is the case. Thanks for your help.

Easywell Water System,Inc.

 

[CaptainAhab]

The line coming out of the unit and to the storage tank. basically you want to add another step before it goes into storage.. And IMO who ever you called is full of .................. well crap I guess is the best way to put it.

Water out of your RO, into the DI out of the DI into the tank.... period

Unless it's pressure related it just might take some figuring out to get the right connectors..

Tommorrow I'll try and look at the doc on the unit you have.. For now.. Go Flyers

 

[mdaniel2882]

So is a DI unit an addon to the RO system. I am using flake food. I am using the Formula Two brand. I feed 3 pinches .

If it is a 5 stage system it is probably a RO/DI does the last canisters have some resin in it and not a filter?

never mind it looks like it has an extra membrane. you do not need to modify the system just take the output line for the RO unit and plug it into this

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/single-di-canister.html

What comes out of this should be 0 TDS