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Old 10-22-2009, 01:16 AM   #11
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What is your PH? I am assuming this is saltwater.
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Old 10-22-2009, 01:20 AM   #12
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Remind us again... how big of tank, and what fish are in it? And how long has it been since it cycled?

If your RO/DI is reading 0 TDS, assuming your TDS meter is correct, it's not silicates. If you test for them, most likely you'll find some, but you'll find some level of them in any salt mix out there.
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Old 10-22-2009, 01:50 AM   #13
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I have a 20gallon acrylic tank (salt water). Two Ocellaris clowns and one sixline wrasse. Plenty of corals, hermits, and snails as well. Its been about 5 months now since my tank cycled. pH was 8.4 when I tested just a minute ago.

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Old 10-22-2009, 05:55 AM   #14
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Silly question, is your CUC eating any of the brown algae or are they avoiding it? Can you provide some pics of the algae?
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Old 10-22-2009, 06:24 AM   #15
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Mm, Maybe it could be from natural light? Is it near a window with direct light?

Just having a stab in the dark.
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Old 10-22-2009, 11:52 AM   #16
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I have had my tank up for 8 almost 9 months now and my algae/cyano problem went away last water change. I took out bioballs, bought two ph, started mixing my own sw, bought new light bulbs and bought a wave maker (which is awesome). Having said all that, I think it might just be the age of your tank. I never had anything but perfect water.
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Old 10-22-2009, 01:08 PM   #17
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Hello,
The CUC picks at the stuff from time to time, but not enough to notice any difference. I see the hermits sifting the sand that has the brown stuff all on it. The snails seem to eat it off the tank walls. They never do enough to see any difference.

The tank is 15 feet from a large window that lights the room. Could be sun light?

I will try to get a picture. This stuff went away for some time on its own and then came back with vengeance!
Also, I tested my RO/DI water for phosphates and the color just MIGHT be that of 0.25ppm! (0 and 0.25ppm look very close to me) My DI resin still looks black, so I dont know why it would be failing. It still tests 0TDS on the digital meter...

I have also put back on my old Current Sundial light to rule out the current one I was using. This drops the power from 160W of T5 to 96W of T5. What do you guys think? 160W seems like alot of light over a 20g tank, no? Maybe I will measure the bulb temperature on the Sundial and compare to what I was getting with the souped up light. (IceCap driving VHO t5 bulbs)
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Old 10-22-2009, 01:16 PM   #18
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I feel for you. I'm having the same battle right now....and that green stuff is covering everything. Even my skimmate is green and chunky! As well, I've got zero nitrates and zero phosphates.

I've got my fingers crossed for you.
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Old 10-22-2009, 01:41 PM   #19
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The strange thing is, one day (a month ago) the stuff just vanished over night! I woke up to white sand and clean rocks! Then a week later, it returned. (Slowly). Ever since I started with the over powered lighting, the stuff SEEMS to have gotten stronger. I will stick with the 96W for 1 week to see if it makes a difference. I really like the other lights better. (Much more light!)

My mini refugium ought to be sorted out by next week. (Just waiting for the chaeto to arrive). Hopefully then I will see a reduction in phosphates and nitrates will stay at zero. (I will be removing all chemical filtration from the canister filter then). Clearmax may also be responsible for zero nitrates as it claims to remove them along with the phosphates and silicates.

Matt
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Old 10-22-2009, 02:11 PM   #20
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Your algae is responsible for your 0 nitrates and phosphates. They are eating that as fuel. You may have to sit on it and wait till it burns itself out. For sure your overdriving lights are the main reason. Continue with the light feeding of your animals and remove what you can when you do PWC's and see how it goes in a week or so. You may need more CUC's in your tank.
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