What is my tank lacking?

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jbowles

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Sep 12, 2008
Messages
44
Location
Southeast Missouri
Hello all, I have had my reef tank up and running for 2 years now and i just have a few questions about it. First here is all my tank info, inhabitants and such:
Equipment:
55 gallon tank with a double bio-wheel filter
2 powerheads for circulation
760 watt metal halide lighting ( 2 x 250 watt 20k halides, and 4 x 65 watt actinic bulbs)
approx 75 - 85 lbs live rock
3.5" - 4" sand bed
i use instant ocean Reef crystals salt mix and add Kent marine Coral-Vite about once a month.
Fish:
1 x saddleback clown
2 x percula clowns
3 x assorted damsels
1 x scooter blenny
1 x purple pseudo basslet
Inverts:
approx 100 x nassarius snails
6 x banded trochus snails
1 x star snail
8 x black turbo snails
4 x turbo snails
6 x astrea snails
4 x cerith snails
approx 8 hermit crabs ( blue leg, red leg cortez)
1 x pincushion urchin
1 x short spine urchin
1 x peppermint shrimp
1 x cleaner shrimp
1 x long tentacle anemone
1 x sebae anemone
Corals:
Red viet mushrooms
frogspawn
4 different zoanthids
small star polyp frag

Now with all that out there lol, on to my questions.

1: I have tried several frags of corals that have more of the skeltal type base but they never make it, the frogspawn i have had for about 6 - 7 months, and when i first got it, it was approx 4 inchs long of the bone type bas and had 2 heads on one end. After about 2 months the base just kind of dissappeared and now i just have the heads left and had to place them on a piece of rock. Now aside from the base going away, both heads open fully each day and look healthy, what would have caused this to happen and why are none of the hard based corals making it?

2: I just recently upgraded my lighting from a 260 watt power compact light to the new 760 watt light. Is this light ok for my tank or is it overdoing it?

3: I helped a friend set up his saltwater tank about 2 months after i set mine up back in 2008. He set up a 75 gallon tank and we use all the same food, salt mix, and even both had the same light ( the 260 watt power compact) but his zoanthids and corals seem to thrive in his tank. With water quality not being the problem because i check mine alot and do the water changes, what would cause his to be any different? I think my tank is healthy as everything is doing well, coraline algae grows extremely fast and i have to scrap my glass weekly, i always see copepods and such at night, no algae problems. Now his tank does not have any coraline algae as it has never started in his tank, but he does have aiptasia that is growing in there, and working on getting it out.
 
Corals with hard skeletons require stable and consistent levels of calcium, alkalinity and magnesium. What are those 3 parameters in your tank? Have you ever tested for phosphate? At high levels (+0.05), it can/will inhibit calcification. What is your nitrate level? Do you use RO/DI water for top offs and water changes?
 
When postign your water tests please post actual numbers, what make test kit you used, and how old each of the kits are (are there date on any of them?).

How often are you doing water changes and what percent of the tank volume are you changing?

Are you dosing anything else in addition to the Coral-Vite? How much of that are you dosing? I would recommend you stop dosing anything at this tiime and just let normal PWC's take care of replenishing the minerals.

Only when you have enough calcerous organisms that require more minerals than a PWC can supply should you begin dosing. That is unless your salt mix is deficient in some aspect and then you can add minerals (e.g Calcium, Magnesium) directly to the PWC mix.
 
How often are you doing water changes and what percent of the tank volume are you changing?

Are you dosing anything else in addition to the Coral-Vite? How much of that are you dosing? I would recommend you stop dosing anything at this tiime and just let normal PWC's take care of replenishing the minerals.

I`m interested in these questions also. Another thing is how much flow are they getting? On you LPS corals like frogspawn if you batter them with too much flow than trauma to the heads will occur and you`ll get the brown jelly and then the polyps disapear. Also Larry asked a good question on your Calcium, alk and mag. Those are important.
 
Corals with hard skeletons require stable and consistent levels of calcium, alkalinity and magnesium. What are those 3 parameters in your tank? Have you ever tested for phosphate? At high levels (+0.05), it can/will inhibit calcification. What is your nitrate level? Do you use RO/DI water for top offs and water changes?


The test kit i have is an instant ocean test kit, it only has nitrate, nitrite, ph, and amonia. Seperatley i bought an API phosphate test which reads right between .00 and .25 ppm. I have never been able to find the test kit for the calcium, alk and mag anywhere around where i live. For top off i use my tap water ( well water ) I don't have access to RO/DI unless i was to buy a system.
 
When postign your water tests please post actual numbers, what make test kit you used, and how old each of the kits are (are there date on any of them?).

How often are you doing water changes and what percent of the tank volume are you changing?

Are you dosing anything else in addition to the Coral-Vite? How much of that are you dosing? I would recommend you stop dosing anything at this tiime and just let normal PWC's take care of replenishing the minerals.

There are no dates on my test kits, the instant ocean kit i bought when i started the tank in 2008. The phosphate kit is only about 5 months old. I change out 5 gallons a week and it is a 55 gallon tank. I don't dose with anything except the coral-vite. I do as the directions said, 5 - 10 ml.
Also the frogspawn is in a medium flow area, it doesn't get a ton but enough to kind of wave in the wind.
 
Just a small update, i have found and ordered a calcium, magnesium, and alkalinity test kits, and i also broke down and ordered a RO / DI system. So when i get the test i will post my readings. A reef tank can be costly at times lol.
 
I beg to differ on a "reef tank being costly at times" They are costly all of the time. Ha haa ha lol
 
Ok so i got my test kits in and also got the RO/DI unit last Friday. I ran all the test i have tonight and here are the results:
Salinity: 1.020
Phosphate: 0
Calcium: 480
PH: 8.6
Alkalinity: 1.7
Magnesium: 1280 (right at the top of my test scale)
Ammonia: 0
Nitrate: 20
Nitrite: 0.2 (lowest my test goes)


I have been using RO/DI for topoffs since i got the unit Friday and i have also done a 5 gallon water change tonight.
 
Only five gallons a week? I usually do ten gallons a week in a 29g. My acroporas and such grow amazing. Also you mentioned you upgrated your lighting system. A friend of mine replaced His bulbs and his corals Bleached so when you upgrated your lights did you notice any change at all in your corals?
 
No real change except they started opening more and looking alot better. I slowly adjusted them to the new light, started at only 4 hours a day and gradually got back to the 8 hours i am at now.turn on my actinc's about an hour before halides and turn them off an hour after they kick off.
 
Ok so i got my test kits in and also got the RO/DI unit last Friday. I ran all the test i have tonight and here are the results:
Salinity: 1.020
Phosphate: 0
Calcium: 480
PH: 8.6
Alkalinity: 1.7
Magnesium: 1280 (right at the top of my test scale)
Ammonia: 0
Nitrate: 20
Nitrite: 0.2 (lowest my test goes)


I have been using RO/DI for topoffs since i got the unit Friday and i have also done a 5 gallon water change tonight.
Salinity needs to come up to around 1.026. What are you using to measure it?
When you do raise salinity, the calcium, alk and mag levels will also rise. What brand salt are you using?
 
I just started using instant ocean reef crystals. So i should bring it up to 1.026? I am using an instant ocean hydrometer to check it, It shows 1.020 - 1.024 as normal levels.
 
Seing arm hydrometers have a bad reputation for being inaccurate a/o not consistent. Do you rinse the hydrometer with RODI water after every use and let it ari dry?
Get a refractometer to test your SG. You'll be happy you did.
 
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