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Old 10-21-2012, 04:51 AM   #11
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I'm six weeks ahead of you and I've got a thriving tank, just take your time and take everyone's advice and do what you think is best, you'll see the changes as the weeks go by.
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Old 10-21-2012, 04:53 AM   #12
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Old 10-21-2012, 12:00 PM   #13
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I read saltwater for dummies before I started. Even though its for dummies it's a darn good read. It will tell you all about the cycling process, what to test for, approx how long it will take etc etc. while your water settles give it a read and it will help you decide what step to take next. Again very good read when you don't have a clue. Lol
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Old 10-21-2012, 01:18 PM   #14
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So should you add live rock and sand at the beginning of cycling the tank as that's what I was told to do?
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Old 10-21-2012, 01:26 PM   #15
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Heres my cycling tank

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Old 10-21-2012, 04:57 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woody390
So should you add live rock and sand at the beginning of cycling the tank as that's what I was told to do?
Yes, because the cycle is all about bacteria being allowed to grow and reproduce, and the rock and Sand is what they grow on.
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Old 10-21-2012, 10:54 PM   #17
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Ok so I got some sand in and I put 2 raw shrimp in. I took some water out and put some demineralized h2o in. My tank was over salted bc I wasn't told the right size when I bought. My salinity is now at the top of the acceptable zone, 34, sg is 1.026

Also got a new LED light. Hope I'm on the right track. I bought a water testing kit.. 5 in 1. So I should just be monitoring the water before t
I add anymore rocks?
How will I know when there's enough bacteria and when I'm ready for fish? Here's a pic of the tank a few hrs after I put argonite in.
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Old 10-21-2012, 11:18 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Medic193
Ok so I got some sand in and I put 2 raw shrimp in. I took some water out and put some demineralized h2o in. My tank was over salted bc I wasn't told the right size when I bought. My salinity is now at the top of the acceptable zone, 34, sg is 1.026

Also got a new LED light. Hope I'm on the right track. I bought a water testing kit.. 5 in 1. So I should just be monitoring the water before t
I add anymore rocks?
How will I know when there's enough bacteria and when I'm ready for fish? Here's a pic of the tank a few hrs after I put argonite in.
If you have more LR already, add it now. If that's all you have, that's fine. Just after your cycled, if you get more rock, either get dry base rock and rinse it off before you put in tank or only get 1 piece of LR at a time. If you add too much LR to a cycled tank, you could set off a mini cycle and hurt the fish.
A specific gravity of 1.026 is great- I think most people keep theirs at 1.025-1.026. The light looks nice!! I love LEDs. Let the shrimp rot in there, you can test ammonia, nitrite and nitrate every day during the cycle- it's good practice. You'll see ammonia go up (needs to get to at least 4ppm), then it'll start to decrease and nitrites will rise and then decrease, then you'll get nitrates. When ammonia and nitrites spike and return to zero, then you're cycled. Your nitrates will probably be high at that point- do a PWC to get them down below 40 (lower is better though) and then your ready for fish!! This is a great time to research fish you wanna get.
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Old 10-21-2012, 11:24 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Beengirl

If you have more LR already, add it now. If that's all you have, that's fine. Just after your cycled, if you get more rock, either get dry base rock and rinse it off before you put in tank or only get 1 piece of LR at a time. If you add too much LR to a cycled tank, you could set off a mini cycle and hurt the fish.
A specific gravity of 1.026 is great- I think most people keep theirs at 1.025-1.026. The light looks nice!! I love LEDs. Let the shrimp rot in there, you can test ammonia, nitrite and nitrate every day during the cycle- it's good practice. You'll see ammonia go up (needs to get to at least 4ppm), then it'll start to decrease and nitrites will rise and then decrease, then you'll get nitrates. When ammonia and nitrites spike and return to zero, then you're cycled. Your nitrates will probably be high at that point- do a PWC to get them down below 40 (lower is better though) and then your ready for fish!! This is a great time to research fish you wanna get.
Awesome thanks for that info! So LR vs dry base rock... Should the tank be 50/50? Can corals live on dry base rock?
I saw a rock today it looked like a big chunk of glass... Teal in color and clear, can I put that in my tank as dry rock?

Also is there a good site to get testing strips at? The local store it's like $1 per strip
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Old 10-21-2012, 11:39 PM   #20
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The liquid test kits are better for SW, strips aren't accurate enough for SW.
Base rock is much cheaper than LR. You could do all base rock if you want, but the rock should be porous. My 55g i used all LR, my 30g i used mostly base and seeded it with a couple puces of LR. all the tock will become LR over time. You can have as much or as little rock as you like. The smooth rock you're talking about wont have many nooks and crannies for BB to grow, but you can use it as a decoration if you want. BB will grow on the sand, rock, decorations, filter media, and surfaces in the tank.
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