I want to remove my HOB
power filter. Now that I've got a small sump going, I want to move everything I can off the tank, and just have a return line, overflow box, and a powerhead.
I'm up to 50 pounds of LR
in my 75g tank, 2-3" of LS
, and params have been perfectly stable for about 3 months, except nitrate, which of course, climbs each week towards 20 before I do a PWC
I'm running a 10g DIY sump/fuge with about 10 pounds of LR
rubble and chaeto. I'm thinking about adding another 10g tank for the fuge, and plumbing it off the sump return line, overflowing (drilled) back to the sump. I can't fit anything bigger than a 10g inside the cabinet because of center support braces (and I'm not brave enough to remove them).
Coralife 125 super skimmer.
Currently 64 watts of stock flourescent lighting, but Monday I'll have 4x65 PC
24 watt UV
(too embarrassed to name the brand, so you can probably guess it).
The only thing I think I'm missing is the mechanical filtering - I'm working on a filter box that will take the overflow flow, and fit over the sump/fuge, which will contain filter floss, filter pads, sponges, whatever, draining into the sump.
Am I safe to remove the Emperer 400 dual biowheel filter? My biggest concern isn't mechanical filtering, but biological filtering.
I'm going to guess my best bet is to remove one of the bio-wheels, wait a week and see if I get any spikes in param's, then remove the 2nd.
Sound like a plan?
PS - the chaeto is relatively new, as is the lighting over the sump, so I'm hoping that will help or eliminate the accumulation of nitrate.