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Old 01-16-2007, 07:28 PM   #11
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I'm going to buy a new one this weekend. I don't get it. The tank can be at .23 then after 2-3 gal of evap the sg is .22 I think maybe the Hydrometer is going bad.
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Old 01-16-2007, 08:32 PM   #12
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If i remember correctly the Tidepool uses a large biowheel like structure. Correct me if i'm wrong. I have heard that they cause problems with nitrates and such.
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Old 01-16-2007, 09:20 PM   #13
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Re: Why is My water Evaporating so fast? Change Filter?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ace1uno_00
I add about 5 gallons of water to my tank every week.
I think its because the top of my tank is open. No lid. and My Halide light heats up the water by 2 or 3 degrees.

What is the solution to my problem?

I dont want to add a lid that will disrupt the lighting.

Also, I have a ProClear Aquatics Wet/Dry with built in skimmer. I was thinking about changing to a TidePool 2. They seem easier to use and The are a lot less noisey.

Any thoughts or feedback would be great.
Welcome to MH lighting. The solution is to use a light source that produces much less heat and/or put a lid on the tank. For heat dissipation you can try a small fan blowing ever so gently across the top of the tank to help remove heat. As for evap, get a top off unit or as stated put a lid on. I do not recommend using a lid but thats about the only way to slow evap.
o, and I would stay away any type of 'bio wheel' unless you are completely committed to cleaning/replacing the 'bio filter' every couple of weeks. They have a nasty habit of being a source of nitrates.
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Old 01-16-2007, 09:34 PM   #14
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I've got a glass top on my 46gal and have never noticed any ill effect. Naturally there is about 3" @ the rear of the top which is not covered by the glass top. My PH is normal and stable.

I'm using a Coralife VHO fixture and they recommended the glass top. They told me that the glass helps to keep salt out of the fixture which would otherwise shorten the usable life of the light.
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Old 01-16-2007, 09:35 PM   #15
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Quote:
The solution is to use a light source that produces much less heat
In the dry air of winter, just about any tank will use up water, no matter what the lights.

I use every major combination of lighting on assorted tanks except for PC and all the tanks need twice as much water during the winter months.
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Old 01-16-2007, 10:43 PM   #16
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I'm currently losing about 2 gallons every day or two out of my 120g. Theres really no way to stop it this time of year.
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Old 01-17-2007, 12:20 PM   #17
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Okay so, water evaporates, salt does not. My tank evaps about 5 gallons a week.

Would it be good to add one gallon of FW a day? or should i add it all at once? and I just noticed that my SG is a little high.

how can i bring it down withouth giving my tank a shock?
I am using one of those swing arm Hydros.
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Old 01-17-2007, 12:29 PM   #18
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You can add it as needed. When you see the water level lower, just add some FW.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ace1uno_00
how can i bring it down withouth giving my tank a shock?
You can lower it by doing a PWC with a lower slainity. Keep in mind fish can tolerate the lowering of salinity way better than an increase.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ace1uno_00
I am using one of those swing arm Hydros.
I would suggest you invest in a Refractometer you will be shocked at the difference between the two measurements.
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Old 01-17-2007, 12:49 PM   #19
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I would add every day and not wait till the end of the week. I have a measured line on my refuge with a marker that lets me know where i need to be at and I add water back to the line every day. I agree with the refractometer.
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Old 01-17-2007, 04:27 PM   #20
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I've got a glass top on my 46gal and have never noticed any ill effect. Naturally there is about 3" @ the rear of the top which is not covered by the glass top. My PH is normal and stable.
Same here. I think problems arise when people totally close off the top. Or maybe we're just lucky!

In addition to the 3" in back, I've got the two sections of glass supported by plastic slider rails on both sides of the tank. The front glass plate rests on the tank frame, but the back glass plate is elevated above it and rests on the slider rail. That makes for a gap along the length of the tank between the front and back glass plate. That probably helps too. (Reason I'm doing this is so that I can just slide the front panel back to feed instead of hinging it up, AND it gets rid of that stupid black colored living hinge that makes a big shadow in tank.)
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