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Old 06-11-2013, 10:34 PM   #11
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Definitely looks like you're is rocking some cayno in that sump
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Old 06-11-2013, 10:36 PM   #12
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what was the nitrate readings? Rodi is your best friend, with treatments like prime are good for chlorine and other toxins but does not purify the water for longterm success.
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Old 06-11-2013, 10:39 PM   #13
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Definitely looks like you're rocking some cayno in that sump
I would remove some of those really dense bolder looking pieces of LR from the DT and try to get some more flow in and around all that rock. The sump looks stagnant like not enough flow is going through it. Low flow in your sump and DT equals ditrius build up which in turn fuels nitrates.
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Old 06-11-2013, 10:44 PM   #14
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I would take out some of those dense boulder looking rocks out of your DT and try and get some more flow around your rock work. Your sump seems stagnant hence the cayno growth. Maybe too much rock in there blocking flow??Low flow usually equals ditrius build up which in turn fuels nitrates.
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:06 PM   #15
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I took a nitrate reading on my tap water and got 20 ppm.

I used to have lots of algae issues, but since I started the large water changes (after those pictures/video were taken) that algae has died down pretty much entirely.

So pointing powerheads towards my LR would be a good thing? I can try that.

I tried using multiple types of light bulbs for my chaeto. The first was a regular CFL from Wal-Mart, then I got one that was made for refugium lighting but I don't remember what type of bulb it was...

I have an RO/DI system. Back when I was able to get it to work at all, it would produce maybe 15 gallons of RO/DI water a day, and about a million gallons of waste water. I tried getting new membranes and a booster pump but this thing just didn't work for me at all. It was an Air Water and Ice RO/DI system, looked a lot like this.

I remember what I paid to get that system in the first place, and then what I have to pay to try an get it to function at all. That's a lot of money. Does it really cost that much to make RO/DI water? There's got to be a better way...
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:21 PM   #16
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What's the tank nitrates read?
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:36 PM   #17
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I took a nitrate reading on my tap water and got 20 ppm.

I used to have lots of algae issues, but since I started the large water changes (after those pictures/video were taken) that algae has died down pretty much entirely.

So pointing powerheads towards my LR would be a good thing? I can try that.

I tried using multiple types of light bulbs for my chaeto. The first was a regular CFL from Wal-Mart, then I got one that was made for refugium lighting but I don't remember what type of bulb it was...

I have an RO/DI system. Back when I was able to get it to work at all, it would produce maybe 15 gallons of RO/DI water a day, and about a million gallons of waste water. I tried getting new membranes and a booster pump but this thing just didn't work for me at all. It was an Air Water and Ice RO/DI system, looked a lot like this.

I remember what I paid to get that system in the first place, and then what I have to pay to try an get it to function at all. That's a lot of money. Does it really cost that much to make RO/DI water? There's got to be a better way...
I don't know much about ro/di water but you might have just gotten a faulty piece of equipment.

Chaeto needs a fairly good flow for it to pull nitrates from the water. I'm still trying to make it work but i've had better luck with grape caulerpa. It grows like crazy in my refugium while the chaeto isnt hardly doing anything. I did have a problem with the caulerpa dumping TONS of nitrates in the water to start but I added a second light to my refugium and now it's doing a lot better. Currently I have a t8 strip light and a clip on cfl for my refugium.

Honestly, I would probably start by doing a deep clean before anything else. Pull out all of the rocks, stick them in tubs of tank water, and siphon out all the detrius that you possibly can.
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:47 PM   #18
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I took a nitrate reading today. My test kit just looks red if you have greater than 80 ppm. It looks like that 80 ppm-red, but it could be more. I've had it look exactly that same color after doing a 100-gallon water change, even though there are only about 180 gallons of water total in the system.
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:51 PM   #19
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What kind of test kit and how old is it?
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Old 06-12-2013, 12:00 AM   #20
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What kind of test kit and how old is it?
Ohhh, great question! What if it was the kit all along. Wouldn't that be something!
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