0 nitrates.

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0 nitrates means bad testing, or no cycle in the tank.

If you're using API test kit, shake bottle #2 like hell !
 
have a canister on my tank, it's to help me from having to do large water changes every week to once every two or three weeks. I enjoy feeding my fish often and I dislike the eye sore the algae scrubber is. The denitrator coil is the best next thing.


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Having a canister is by no means a reason not to do WC's. I have canisters on just about all my tanks and still do LARGE WC's daily. Once every two-three weeks is gonna cost you more $$ in the long run since you like feeding your fish often. The amount of leftover food and detritus that's stuck in all your substrate is going to cause all kinds of spikes across the boards. What your doing is called "poor husbandry" and pretty unethical. At the rate your going with these fancy "gadgets" nobody's heard of, it's possible you'll be back at your LFS to get more fish because they're all dying and you have no clue as to why. It's both my opinion and experience from reading thru a few of your other posts, you need to get a grip on the basics first.
 
Can different tenperature water affect bacteria?


Lower temperatures will slow bacterial growth while higher temperatures will promote it. That being said, almost any temperature suitable for fish keeping is fine for bacterial growth. If you do choose a high temperature make sure you have enough oxygenation. The higher the temperature, the less O2 available for your fish!
 
Lower temperatures will slow bacterial growth while higher temperatures will promote it. That being said, almost any temperature suitable for fish keeping is fine for bacterial growth. If you do choose a high temperature make sure you have enough oxygenation. The higher the temperature, the less O2 available for your fish!


Any idea when bacteria slows down drastically, I have a coldwater tank, that is currently at 69 degrees and dropping. My other tanks are within a good tropical range.
 
Having a canister is by no means a reason not to do WC's. I have canisters on just about all my tanks and still do LARGE WC's daily. Once every two-three weeks is gonna cost you more $$ in the long run since you like feeding your fish often. The amount of leftover food and detritus that's stuck in all your substrate is going to cause all kinds of spikes across the boards. What your doing is called "poor husbandry" and pretty unethical. At the rate your going with these fancy "gadgets" nobody's heard of, it's possible you'll be back at your LFS to get more fish because they're all dying and you have no clue as to why. It's both my opinion and experience from reading thru a few of your other posts, you need to get a grip on the basics first.


I was just stating the the type of filter I use.
I do water changes weekly.
Doing water changes daily can harm your bacteria colony. Especially if it's not dechlorinated and the same temp as ur main tanks temp.
And I may word it wrong or whatever but it looks like I know much more than you.
I bet you don't let ur nitrates get above 10ppm while mine get up to 30-40 before I do a water change, which is the reason I want to use a denitrator coil. And it's actually something a lot of people have heard about. Maybe not fw but deff sw.
And all these gadgets are helpful and without them I would be spending extra money.

I was actually probably going to get a drip system with an automatic reservoir top off if you know what that is.
 
I think it simply comes down to nutrient input (quality/quantity), biomass, and sensitivity of stock to nitrates when it comes to WCs.
 
In general, SW fish/coral are MUCH less tolerant to nitrogenous waste than FW critters. This has lead to widespread use of means to keep nitrates down, eg DSB, reactors, etc. In FW, there simply isn't enough benefit to maintaining extremely low levels of nitrate to warrant the associated efforts. That isn't to say that there aren't people out there running reactors to maintain these levels, but frankly I don't see the point when a combination of water changes, plants, and reasonable stocking can maintain perfectly hospitable levels.
 
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