60gallon

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Dmore2

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Aug 15, 2013
Messages
42
I'm cycling this. Just made a good for it looks nice with the light on getting plants tomorrow.
Ill keep uploading :)
 

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Just made a hood**
Was thinking of fish in cycle? Is there a hearty fish that will do ok single when I get new fish or
 
Hey thanks for all the response. I'm have put in 3 tetras. Will post pics later :) I have added my other tank water when I done a cycle so I suppose this started as a fishless cycle but now, due to my impatience, has become a fish in cycle haha
 
I'm just still monitoring nitrate levels. And is a bacteria bloom a sign of a cycles tank?
 
No. The only way to tell if a cycle is working is to test for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Too bad for the fish, it's very hard on them when the ammonia rises. I wish folks would stick with the fish less cycle. I get that it's hard to wait, but it's also not kind to the fish.
 
Thank you. I'm monitoring levels all the time and got plenty of plants ect to help get rid of the nitrates
 
The more fast growing plants you use, ones like Water Sprite, Wisteria, and many stem plants the faster you can cycle your tank. You need about 85% of your substrate planted and cycling can be cut down to days instead of weeks. It's called silent cycling. I did this with my 220g and it cycled in 8 days. This method of cycling is becoming very popular. The only thing when you cycle with plants you want to add fish slower. The plants use ammonia and nitrates.
 
Okay I don't have that many plants but I do intend on getting more. But not so many that I need a no2 kit
 
I ran a 220g 100% planted high light tank using only liquid carbon and dry ferts for well over a year and just recently added CO2. Liquid carbon isn't well understood and the directions on name brand bottles are very broad. When using liquid carbon you determine dosage by the amount of light you have, the amount of plants you have especially fast growing ones, and by the amount of bioload your tank has as liquid carbon breaks down faster the higher the bioload. Plus if you buy and use the generic form, Metricide 14 Day Solution, you get 2 gallons for about $27 which includes shipping. Dry ferts are also cheap and last a very long time even in larger tanks. I'm all for economical. So you can add more plants and get better growth by only using liquid carbon. If you want to go this route down the road I can help you with your dosing.
 
I am going to have two heavily planted areas in my tank and plants scattered between. Do you think I will need co2 for that?
 
I am going to have two heavily planted areas in my tank and plants scattered between. Do you think I will need co2 for that?


It really depends. What is your lighting and bulbs? Are you wanting to do high, medium, or low light? Also have you given any thought to the types of plants you want? If you go with say medium light and say maybe 50% of the substrate planted you would have two options.

First one would be dosing the proper amount of liquid carbon. If you buy the generic Metricide 14 Day Solution a gallon is about $27 shipped. You mix it at a rate of 1:1 with RO or Distilled water to get 2 gallons. Very cheap if you price Excel or API CO2 booster. Then you dose it depending on the amount of light, the amount and type of plants you have, and your bioload. I ran a 220g 100% planted high light tank with dry ferts and liquid carbon for well over a year very successfully. If you go this route I can help you with how much you would need to dose daily.

Second choice would be CO2 which you could do with medium or high lighting.

You can always start with liquid carbon and get comfortable with the workings of a planted tank and move up to CO2 later. I would strongly suggest using dry ferts over liquid due to the size of your tank. Dry ferts are also very cheap and last a long time.
 
But why risk fish, if you don't have to ? It can be safe, perhaps, but often is not done properly, and then fish suffer.

So why bother if there is another way with zero risk ? We may not agree on this, that's ok. Everybody can have their opinion.
 
But why risk fish, if you don't have to ? It can be safe, perhaps, but often is not done properly, and then fish suffer.

So why bother if there is another way with zero risk ? We may not agree on this, that's ok. Everybody can have their opinion.

I didn't agree or disagree with you nor give an opinion. I simply stated the fact that if done properly a fish-in cycle is not bad or harmful to fish.
 
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