API test...anyone else find them hard to read?

[Tasha]

I find it interesting that on the master test kit color card, where all the colors are columnized on a single card, the 10ppm nitrate and 20 ppm nitrate look identical. Yet, on the small (freshwater) card that comes with the single nitrate test, where nitrate alone is tested, there's a distinct difference in shade between 10ppm and 20ppm. The 10 is more orange, and the 20 is redder.

I also have trouble with the ammonia test. Sometimes the shade is more yellow and less green, but not true yellow nor the green shade for 0.25. It's in between. I have learned to allow for in between measurements. Occasionally, I do get a dull, true yellow, and it's no doubt that's zero.

Do you shake up your reagents before using them? API has admitted that the reagents can glop up at the bottom of the bottle, and if you don't shake them thoroughly so they mix thoroughly, you can get a false reading.

The pamphlet says to shake #2 nitrate reagent for 30 seconds before counting out the drops, and then when combined in the test-tube with #1 reagent, to shake the tube for a full minute, then wait five minutes for the color to develop.

But, the directions say nothing about shaking the other reagents. In truth, you need to do it with all of them, especially ammonia #1, because that is thicker, anyway.

Try shaking the reagents thoroughly before using them, and see if the color shades aren't a little clearer.

-- sirensong

I agree and I also shake all my bottles before using them, and then with the nitrates do as per directions. I find the 10 to 20 nitrates the hardest to decifer as well...

 

[jsoong]

I find it difficult to tell the shades as well ... the cards are photo reproductions, and it is almost always a bit off from one to the other. Most of the hobby tests are basically guesstimates...

Best way I find is to make a reference test solution. <The planted forum folks do this all the time for their tests.> Basically, you make a solution of known concentration (say nitrate) and test that to compare with the result from your tank water.

A fanatic tester will make a test solution & compare the tubes side by side with each test. A more reasonable way is to do it a few times so you know what the test is supposed to look like, and just remember that for future reference. <Or take a photo ...> It is esp. good for ammonia or nitrites when you want to know zero. So just test some distilled water, and you know what zero looks like ... whether you call that yellow or green or if that is at all like the color card is now irrelevant.

 

[librarygirl]

I find it difficult to tell the shades as well ... the cards are photo reproductions, and it is almost always a bit off from one to the other. Most of the hobby tests are basically guesstimates...

Best way I find is to make a reference test solution. <The planted forum folks do this all the time for their tests.> Basically, you make a solution of known concentration (say nitrate) and test that to compare with the result from your tank water.

A fanatic tester will make a test solution & compare the tubes side by side with each test. A more reasonable way is to do it a few times so you know what the test is supposed to look like, and just remember that for future reference. <Or take a photo ...> It is esp. good for ammonia or nitrites when you want to know zero. So just test some distilled water, and you know what zero looks like ... whether you call that yellow or green or if that is at all like the color card is now irrelevant.

That's a great idea. Well I know what zero nitrates and nitrites look like so no problems there lol the ammo is hard for me because I think I'm sometimes seeing a tint of green and then it looks more yellow. I

'll pick up some distiller water and use that for my 0 ammo reference. Thanks!

 

[BldrArch]

Is your cycle complete or are you cycling with fish? If you're still cycling, then you should test at least 1x daily if not more to keep your levels low enough to be safe for the fish. If you have completed cycling then my guess would be once per week or less but since I haven't gotten that far yet maybe someone else with a cycled tank can help you. Good luck!

Sorry. I should gave clarified I have completed a fishless cycle. But I've been stocking slowly so maybe I'll test a little more frequently in case of a mini cycle. But so far so good. Thanks!

 

[mollymama]

I am totally having a hard time reading the shades as well. Reading nitrite levels are killing me. When I look at the card I can tell the dif in shades...then I hold the vile up to the card and can't seem to tell which end is up (except it's not anywhere near 0, so that part is pretty clear!).

I find it difficult to tell the shades as well ... the cards are photo reproductions, and it is almost always a bit off from one to the other. Most of the hobby tests are basically guesstimates...

Best way I find is to make a reference test solution. <The planted forum folks do this all the time for their tests.> Basically, you make a solution of known concentration (say nitrate) and test that to compare with the result from your tank water.

A fanatic tester will make a test solution & compare the tubes side by side with each test. A more reasonable way is to do it a few times so you know what the test is supposed to look like, and just remember that for future reference. <Or take a photo ...> It is esp. good for ammonia or nitrites when you want to know zero. So just test some distilled water, and you know what zero looks like ... whether you call that yellow or green or if that is at all like the color card is now irrelevant.

Fantastic suggestions! I'm doing this tomorrow!

 

[Mr. Limpet]

I am totally having a hard time reading the shades as well. Reading nitrite levels are killing me. When I look at the card I can tell the dif in shades...then I hold the vile up to the card and can't seem to tell which end is up (except it's not anywhere near 0, so that part is pretty clear!).



Fantastic suggestions! I'm doing this tomorrow!

I find the nitrItes (no2) the easiest, because if it isn't a pure shade of blue (which it always is) I'd be doing massive water changes to get to 0ppm ASAP.

 

[mollymama]

Good point and yup, been doing 50% pwc daily. Can't wait to see blue instead of purple!

 

[librarygirl]

Good point and yup, been doing 50% pwc daily. Can't wait to see blue instead of purple!

Lol I'm the opposite, I think I'd pay money to see some shade of purple, although I don't have fish in the tank lol

 

[librarygirl]

Sorry. I should gave clarified I have completed a fishless cycle. But I've been stocking slowly so maybe I'll test a little more frequently in case of a mini cycle. But so far so good. Thanks!

Glad to hear it, good luck!

 

[i3k]

I wouldn't worry about ammonia being at or around .25, in most cases your tap water will have ammonia in it by way of chloramine itself and when you condition the water, its going to break down into ammonia, but a non harmful version of it, only problem is that it still tests as being positive for a short period of time. My tap water tests a .50 for ammonia after treating it with prime. but once the tank starts its cycle it will break down within a short period of time. The only numbers you really have to worry about is when it gets to 1ppm or up, that means its time to do a water change.

You're getting false positive because you're using prime and most likely a nessler based kit

Read the second Q/A:
Seachem. Prime FAQ

 

[Mr. Limpet]

You're getting false positive because you're using prime and most likely a nessler based kit

Read the second Q/A:
Seachem. Prime FAQ

Yep, Prime doesn't eliminate ammo, it binds it into a non-toxic form. But it still shows up as ammo.

The 2nd FAQ reads like a sales pitch for another Seachem product to this ex advertising guy .

 

[James_in_MN]

I also have a bugger of a time. But mostly with the oranges on the nitrates.

A little OT, but now that I have fish, how often do I need to check my parameters?

I test ammonia / nitrItes / nitrAtes weekly prior to my water change, and pH / GH / KH bi-weekly after my water change. I figure that pH, GH, and KH won't make any dramatic enough shifts to test it more often than every two weeks. I test the nitrogen cycle weekly because I'd hate to have an ammonia or nitrIte problem sneak up on me.

As far as the colors on the API test kit, I have some difficulty too, but mostly when fishless cycling a tank. Once a tank is cycled, IMO neighborhood plays are acceptable for nitrAtes. As long as it's orange prior to my water change, my tank should be perfectly fine. If I get some reddish coloring, then I'll do two water changes that week.

 

[librarygirl]

Hm, interesting. I did look at the Multitest Ammonia kit but I don't know if I'd trust comparing two API products for the same tests. What's a Nessler based kit? Is that the one I'm using (API Master Kit), and if it is and they know this happens, why don't they fix it? I think I may try another brand of liquid kit for the ammonia (I'm thinking the Hagen kit) for comparison purposes. But then I'll probably drive myself crazy wondering which is right lol

 

[JoeDaniels]

Ok so is there a way of telling the difference significantly i.e online, extra cards because it's just a pain :/ ammo is the one I have problems with most is ammonia is it 0 or is it 0.25 :/ haha

 

[i3k]

Hm, interesting. I did look at the Multitest Ammonia kit but I don't know if I'd trust comparing two API products for the same tests. What's a Nessler based kit? Is that the one I'm using (API Master Kit), and if it is and they know this happens, why don't they fix it? I think I may try another brand of liquid kit for the ammonia (I'm thinking the Hagen kit) for comparison purposes. But then I'll probably drive myself crazy wondering which is right lol

are you using prime? if so, just test 36 hrs after you used prime. then you will get accurate ammonia readings.

 

[jsoong]

Hm, interesting. I did look at the Multitest Ammonia kit but I don't know if I'd trust comparing two API products for the same tests. What's a Nessler based kit? Is that the one I'm using (API Master Kit), and if it is and they know this happens, why don't they fix it? I think I may try another brand of liquid kit for the ammonia (I'm thinking the Hagen kit) for comparison purposes. But then I'll probably drive myself crazy wondering which is right lol

There are 2 types of ammonia kits, the Nessler is a single reagent test, use for Fresh water. <Brand does not matter, any single reagent FW ammonia kit is nessler.> If you get a salt water master kit (or ammonia kit), you would get a 2 reagent salicylate test. <API makes that too, cost more ... so most just use the single FW test in FW.>>

The Nessler test will test positive with bound ammonia. When you add any dechlorinator (Prime included) to water with chloramines (a common disinfectant), the chloramines are broken down to chlorine and ammonia. Both are bound, but the bound ammonia will test positive. If you have a cycled tank, the bound ammonia will be removed by your biofilter. So basically, if you wait a few hrs. after your pwc to test for ammonia (or test it BEFORE the pwc), you would not have to worry about the false positive test.

If you are doing fishless cycling, then it doesn't matter, as you want the ammonia much higher than that 0.5 or so resulted from the chloramines.

 

[pantherspawn]

good info jsoong plus 1 rep

 

[librarygirl]

There are 2 types of ammonia kits, the Nessler is a single reagent test, use for Fresh water. <Brand does not matter, any single reagent FW ammonia kit is nessler.> If you get a salt water master kit (or ammonia kit), you would get a 2 reagent salicylate test. <API makes that too, cost more ... so most just use the single FW test in FW.>>

The Nessler test will test positive with bound ammonia. When you add any dechlorinator (Prime included) to water with chloramines (a common disinfectant), the chloramines are broken down to chlorine and ammonia. Both are bound, but the bound ammonia will test positive. If you have a cycled tank, the bound ammonia will be removed by your biofilter. So basically, if you wait a few hrs. after your pwc to test for ammonia (or test it BEFORE the pwc), you would not have to worry about the false positive test.

If you are doing fishless cycling, then it doesn't matter, as you want the ammonia much higher than that 0.5 or so resulted from the chloramines.

Great info thanks! I am doing fishless cycling so no need to worry about the difference between 0 and 0.25 there as I'm at 4 ppm and it's pretty easy to read BUT I am doing water tests on tap and treated tap with Prime, just to get the levels I'm starting with. I've had some issues with the ammo readings there:

My tap water (untreated) is either doing weird things or I'm reading the test wrong:
Right out of the tap it seems like it's zero, but I find it hard to tell whether there is a greenish tint.
After 18 hours it looks a bit more greenish, close to or at 0.25
After 26 hours it was definitely 0.5 ppm ammo. I'm not sure what's going on there; how can ammo RISE from zero or close-to? My PH is fluctuating as well (ph started off the chart, high range was about 8.4+; after an hour ph was the same, high range settled to 7.4; after 18 hours ph settled to about 7.6, hi range went back up to about 8.4; after 26 hours ph settled at 7.6, high range at 7.4. I stopped testing then).

My tap water (treated with Prime):
after one hour: ammo looks zero, ph was dark blue, off the chart, high range ph 8.2
after 19 hours: ammo looks zero, ph was still off the chart, high range settled to 7.4
after 28 hours ammo started to look slightly greenish, about 0.25 or less, ph was still off the chart and high range stayed at 7.4

I''m going to retest the untreted and treated tap water against distilled water also in case I made errors in readings for the ammo. Not sure what the heck the PH is doing. I've also ordered a Gh/KH kit, just waiting for it to arrive.

So yeah, still having problems lol
Thanks for the advice everyone!

 

[jsoong]

Chloramines also breaks down on its own (usu. a few days, faster if under light), so yes, tap water will show a slight rise in ammonia if you let it sit. But I wouldn't worry about 0.25 or 0.5. If you have a cycled tank, that ammonia will simply be digested by the bio-filter & you should never see it.

Prime only lasts 24 hrs or so .... important to know if you are using Prime as an ammonia binder to protect the fish. You have to keep dosing Prime daily as long as ammonia is present. <Personally, I will do pwc to get rid of the ammonia ... but there is a fishy cycling method using ammonia binder.>

Your water is prob. limed. The water co. add CaO or Ca(OH)2 to artificially raise the pH in the tap water (to reduce pipe corrosion.) The effect is transient. The base reacts with CO2 & is gone, so your pH goes down.

<CaO + H2O -> Ca(OH)2;
CO2 + Ca(OH)2 -> CaCO3 + H2O>

Doing at least 1 KH & GH test on the tap is a good idea. Or if your water co post detailed water chemistry on the web (mine does), you can just look it up. That will give you a good understanding of what your water is going to do.

 

[librarygirl]

I have another question regarding these tests:

I find if I HOVER the tube over the card the color of the tube usually matches the lighter end of whatever test I''m testing (say if it's NitrAtes, the color looks darker than 0 but not quite 5). If I hold the tube right AGAINST the card, the color of the tube looks darker (then it matches the 5 on the NitrAte test). Which is the accurate reading?

Also I just used the API Gh/Kh kit to test my water. The test kit says if you have trouble reading the colors, to look down into the tube from the top. If I do this with the other water test tubes, say Nitrates, the color looks much darker and has some reddish in it, which looks like its then 40. But the tube itself isn't that dark. So which is accurate? Any advice?

I also tested the ammo reading with distilled water and to me there is still a slight greenish tint if I hold it AGAINST the card, but more yellow when I hover it. AAAHHHHHHHHHHH