Cloudy green water in 2 year established tank.

[hopalong_70]

The water in my tank is very cloudy and green tinted. This tank has been established for 2 years. No fish are dying or even look sick. This has been going on for a month now. I have done 4 vacuum water changes, 20% to 50% each time. I've used Proquatics water clarifier, Proquatics bacteria starter, and Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Algae Destroyer liquid several times, to no avail.

My tank is a 64 gallon freshwater with African Cichlids. Filtration is by Fluval 404 canister. Undergravel is accomplished with 2 powerheads.

I had some old driftwood in there that was breaking down. I removed it, but the problem persists. Please help! Running out of ideas!

[Menagerie]

[center:d81f11e31a] Welcome to AA, hopalong_70!! [/center:d81f11e31a]

I've used Proquatics water clarifier, Proquatics bacteria starter, and Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Algae Destroyer liquid several times, to no avail.

Stop using chemicals to treat your aquarium--this will get you on the right track! The only chemical you need is a dechlorinator.

What are your water parameters (ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate)?

[hopalong_70]

Amonia is non-existent. I've never used nitrite or nitrate testers, although I wouldn't be opposed to going out to my local shop this afternoon to pick one up if you recommend it.

Ph is 7.2, even though my local water is 8.0. Thats another reason why I took out the driftwood. I thought maybe that was what was bringing the [acronym:e67855cc86="power head or Measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions, depending on context"]ph[/acronym:e67855cc86] down.

The only other chemical I use is Seachem Cichlid lake salt, but I havn't been using it since the green cloudy water has appeared. Do you recommed doing away with that as well?

[Menagerie]

Ph is 7.2, even though my local water is 8.0. Thats another reason why I took out the driftwood. I thought maybe that was what was bringing the [acronym:e86bc52f27="power head or Measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions, depending on context"]ph[/acronym:e86bc52f27] down.

The driftwood helps bring down pH and hardness. Also, as an aquarium ages, the pH lowers.

The only other chemical I use is Seachem Cichlid lake salt, but I havn't been using it since the green cloudy water has appeared. Do you recommed doing away with that as well?

Some people really like it, but I personally do not use it with my Africans.

I've never used nitrite or nitrate testers, although I wouldn't be opposed to going out to my local shop this afternoon to pick one up if you recommend it.

Definitely pick them up. Nitrite poisoning is just as dangerous as ammonia poisoning (I don't think that's what is going on, but in an emergency, it is a great test to have on hand). The nitrate test will tell us if there is too much nutrients in the water.

[hopalong_70]

Ok, I bought a nitrite and a nitrate tester today. Nitrite levels are next to nothing. Nitrate levels are almost off the charts at about 80 or more. I read that high nitrate levels will cause algea breakouts, which is what my tank looks like it's suffering from. I'll do 25% water changes every other day this week to see if it gets better.

Thanks for the help. I didn't even consider nitrates as the cause.

[Menagerie]

I'll do 25% water changes every other day this week to see if it gets better.

You may have to keep up the [acronym:0498ab1bb9="Partial water change"]PWC[/acronym:0498ab1bb9] for a longer period of time since the nitrates are so high. Remember, you remove some, but they continue to increase between [acronym:0498ab1bb9="Partial water change"]PWC[/acronym:0498ab1bb9].

[lyquidphyre]

I had this problem as well and I couldn't figure out what to do. If you have the money, you can buy a magnum filter and do this-

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?t=13431

you don't even need the powder that is suggested.. it should clear up in a few days with just the filter

good luck!

[lyquidphyre]

Im from Denton too!!! hehe sorry i just noticed that

[gfink]

I also have this problem, but I think it is getting better.

29 [acronym:78b51affdd="Gallon"]gal[/acronym:78b51affdd]
Ammonia, and Nitrites are 0
Nitrates are less that 5 [acronym:78b51affdd="Parts per Million"]ppm[/acronym:78b51affdd].
pH 6.8

My water was very green, I had problems seeing the heater in the back! I did partial water changes, and it would temporarily dilute it, but it would spring back in about 2-3 days.

[acronym:78b51affdd="Local Fish Store"]LFS[/acronym:78b51affdd] advised me to set light to 4 hours. (it was at 9 hours as my basement doesn't get any significant sunlight.)

I also read that phophates can promote algae. So I bought a phosphate test kit and discovered that my tap water and tank had 2 [acronym:78b51affdd="Parts per Million"]ppm[/acronym:78b51affdd]. Right now, I have some seachem phosphate absorbing filter media in my tank, and in combination with the reduced light, the tank seems to be recovering....slowly. The green isn't rebounding as fast, or to the extent it was after a water change. I imagine that it will need a few more weeks with 25% [acronym:78b51affdd="Partial water change"]pwc[/acronym:78b51affdd] every 5 days or so. We'll see.

[acronym:78b51affdd="For your info"]FYI[/acronym:78b51affdd]...I have fake plants. I've read that adding real plants is good, because they will take in and store nutrients, starving out the algae.

I'll try that next if all esle fails, but I will have to increase my light period.

[Menagerie]

I've read that adding real plants is good, because they will take in and store nutrients, starving out the algae.

Absolutely.