Cloudy Water

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GodFan

Aquarium Advice Addict
Joined
Sep 10, 2011
Messages
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Ok so my Mom got a 26 gallon bowfront tank. It is near a window however it stays closed and there is minimal sunlight exposure. The water is cloudy now. I dont know why it is always cloudy. What can i do to fix it? I am not into algaecides. Any other options? She has an aquaclear filter (trying to find out which one)
Thanks and God bless!
 
Is it a new tank? Is it cycling?
It is a new tank but it is cycled. We have had no disease and few deaths (some are inevitable from LFS) The fish seem fine. I have been using Seachem Stability (I know but it has worked for me)
 
Did you do a fishless cycle before adding fish, or did you add an established filter from another tank onto this one? If not, then it may not be cycled properly unless it's been setup for a while (2+ months). What are the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate readings? (this could be accounting for the fish deaths).

The cloudy water could be a bacterial bloom which is common in new tank setups, if it is it should go away on its own in time. I'd also suggest testing the water daily and do water changes as needed to keep toxins down; I wouldn't blindly trust the Stability.
 
Did you do a fishless cycle before adding fish, or did you add an established filter from another tank onto this one? If not, then it may not be cycled properly unless it's been setup for a while (2+ months). What are the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate readings? (this could be accounting for the fish deaths).

The cloudy water could be a bacterial bloom which is common in new tank setups, if it is it should go away on its own in time. I'd also suggest testing the water daily and do water changes as needed to keep toxins down; I wouldn't blindly trust the Stability.
Please dont hate me.... I dont have a test kit yet... That on my list of supplies I NEED but I havent got there yet... I only used the stability and another bottled bacteria that came with the kit (My Dad used it and chucked the bottle before I saw it). The tank is cycled or at least partially cycled. We did not do fishless cycling and it hasnt been 2 months but the fish are stable for the most part.
 
The tank is either cycled or not. You need to use ammonia to cycle it, not just add fish and stability. The tank is not cycled for sure until you can test it.
 
:agree:
There is no way to tell the cycle without testing the water parameters. No hate... judgement... etc. Just the fact that unless you know what the parameters are they could be anything.

You don't need a full liquid test kit. You can get the dip sticks for about $10 which should last a good month at minimum if you test it every day.

Regardless, looking up through the tank water at the top of the water, can you see a layer of skim on the water where there is less turbulence from the filter flow?
 
Please dont hate me.... I dont have a test kit yet... That on my list of supplies I NEED but I havent got there yet... I only used the stability and another bottled bacteria that came with the kit (My Dad used it and chucked the bottle before I saw it). The tank is cycled or at least partially cycled. We did not do fishless cycling and it hasnt been 2 months but the fish are stable for the most part.

No hate. :) Liquid kits are more reliable than strips, and in the long run will cost you less. At the very least you can take a sample of the water to a fish store and have them test it (most do this, some for free), but note what test kit they use (if it's strips, it may not be totally accurate) and write down the exact numbers they give you (don't let them say the water is "fine" b/c it might not be).

In the meantime I'd be doing daily water changes of 50% to keep any potential toxins down until you can test the water and know for sure whether or not the tank is cycled (don't forget to use dechlorinator; Prime is best if you can get it, if not whatever you have is fine). There's a link in my signature called 'new tank with fish;' it'll give you some good info.
 
:agree:
There is no way to tell the cycle without testing the water parameters. No hate... judgement... etc. Just the fact that unless you know what the parameters are they could be anything.

You don't need a full liquid test kit. You can get the dip sticks for about $10 which should last a good month at minimum if you test it every day.

Regardless, looking up through the tank water at the top of the water, can you see a layer of skim on the water where there is less turbulence from the filter flow?
Thanks and no no skim. The aqueon disturbs the water way to much lol

No hate. :) Liquid kits are more reliable than strips, and in the long run will cost you less. At the very least you can take a sample of the water to a fish store and have them test it (most do this, some for free), but note what test kit they use (if it's strips, it may not be totally accurate) and write down the exact numbers they give you (don't let them say the water is "fine" b/c it might not be).

In the meantime I'd be doing daily water changes of 50% to keep any potential toxins down until you can test the water and know for sure whether or not the tank is cycled (don't forget to use dechlorinator; Prime is best if you can get it, if not whatever you have is fine). There's a link in my signature called 'new tank with fish;' it'll give you some good info.
This is for both. I didnt fishless cycle. I tend to be more a fish in person. However I am almost positive it is cycled because as I said the fish are pretty healthy. How do I get nitrates down though?
 
GodFan said:
Thanks and no no skim. The aqueon disturbs the water way to much lol

This is for both. I didnt fishless cycle. I tend to be more a fish in person. However I am almost positive it is cycled because as I said the fish are pretty healthy. How do I get nitrates down though?

Just because the fish seem happy and healthy doesn't mean your tank is cycled... ammonia can exist in the the water without any signs...
 
Has anyone seen the really fat goldfish with the HUGE bags under there eyes? First time I saw one I thought it was diseased lol
 
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