Confused with Prime and ammonia level

[FoxRob]

Ok if it is normal for water to test positive for ammonia when using Prime how can you get an accurate measure if your doing daily water changes and adding Prime with each change?

 

[GoneFishing]

Ok if it is normal for water to test positive for ammonia when using Prime how can you get an accurate measure if your doing daily water changes and adding Prime with each change?

I don't have issues with prime and ammo. Mine is always 0ppm.. Not sure if the advice I'll give is accurate but, when I do a pwc I let the bucket sit for 30 min or so. That way it burns off any additives from the tap. I put prime in it as soon as I fill the bucket then just let it sit. Hopefully some experienced folk stop by and give their two cents.

 

[FoxRob]

I use a Aqueon water changer, no buckets.

 

[JustinKScott]

Prime will not affect ammo unless it is not detoxifying the chorine fast enough, and therefore the chlorine is killing the bacteria in your bio filter.
I'd prime the new water in a separate bucket.

 

[GoneFishing]

I use a Aqueon water changer, no buckets.

Ah yea as said above, prime the water in a bucket. I have heard pythons are great but I worry about adding the prime after the water addition.

 

[jetajockey]

I don't use buckets either, it's fine, just dose the tanks prior to adding new water.

Prime is not going to change the results of ammonia tests because it temporarily converts the free ammonia to ammonium.

Tests like the one in the api master test kit give you readings for total ammonia both free and bound.

 

[FoxRob]

SO if I'm testing any ammonia it is too high still? My tap water tests at 1.0 and my 55 gal is reading .25 with my 29 gal is .50 when I last tested them. I do use the API master kit.

 

[jetajockey]

well anything over 0 is too high, of course, but if your tap is 1.0 then you kinda have an issue. In that case I would just do WC's anytime the tank water gets over 1.0, because the tap is just going to put 1.0 back in it anyway. Just remember to dose prime every 24-48 hours (I'd do every 24 hours to be sure, but the seachem reps say that it lasts up to 48) and keep testing.

 

[FoxRob]

So eventually it should start to read 0?

 

[eco23]

As jetajockey said, the Prime temporarily detoxifies the ammo but will still show on an API kit. It in itself doesn't remove it from the water, just renders it non-toxic for 24-36 hours. As long as the tank is cycled and established...the ammo will be consumed by the bio-filter within 24 hours. If it still tests positive after that time...it may be time to look into an issue like a mini-cycle causing the ammo spike.

 

[FoxRob]

Should I not change my water for a day or so, I've been doing daily PWC to try and get it lower.

 

[eco23]

Should I not change my water for a day or so, I've been doing daily PWC to try and get it lower.

Is the tank stocked? Are you currently cycling? Can you post your full parameters (ammo, nitrItes, nitrAtes)?

 

[FoxRob]

Yes the tank is stocked, 3 blue gourami's, 6 black skirt tetra's, 6 long fin rosey barb's, 2 tin foil barb's(had 6 but lost 4 for unknown reason), 2 spotted cory cats, 1 rainbow shark, 1 bristlenose pleco. The tank has been running for a year and was cycled without fish before the first ones went in which were the skirts and tiger barbs(tigers were moved to another tank due to rosey barbs missing fins). The loss of the tin foil barbs is the reason I'm trying to make sure my water parameters are right. I also have some plants but not too sure what they are since my wife never looks at the names just buys them based on how they look.

 

[eco23]

Yes the tank is stocked, 3 blue gourami's, 6 black skirt tetra's, 6 long fin rosey barb's, 2 tin foil barb's(had 6 but lost 4 for unknown reason), 2 spotted cory cats, 1 rainbow shark, 1 bristlenose pleco. The tank has been running for a year and was cycled without fish before the first ones went in which were the skirts and tiger barbs(tigers were moved to another tank due to rosey barbs missing fins). The loss of the tin foil barbs is the reason I'm trying to make sure my water parameters are right. I also have some plants but not too sure what they are since my wife never looks at the names just buys them based on how they look.

We'll all be happy to help out. I'll need to know your current ammo, nitrIte and nitrAte levels as well as what type of test kit you are using. Have you made any changes to the tank recently? Changed out decorations, switched out filter media, etc...? Also, how big is the tank? You've got some fish in there that require a fairly large tank volume as well the corys really needing to kept in a larger group to be happy. I believe the rainbow sharks need ~50 gallons, and the Tin Foil Barbecue can reach 1' 2"! I think 70 gallons is recommended for them.

 

[FoxRob]

Tank size is 55 gallons, the PH this morning 6.8, ammonia was .25, Nitrite 0, Nitrate less then 5ppm temp is 77*. A while ago I made the mistake of changing filter media, not realizing I didn't have to or that I should have only changed one cartridge at a time. Test kit is API master.
We just added the 2 spotted cory's they were the last 2 they had. The tin foil barbs we were told by the people at the LFS would be fine after getting home and reading more about them found out just how big they really get. We are planning to get a 125-150 gal after we move.

 

[eco23]

Tank size is 55 gallons, the PH this morning 6.8, ammonia was .25, Nitrite 0, Nitrate less then 5ppm temp is 77*. A while ago I made the mistake of changing filter media, not realizing I didn't have to or that I should have only changed one cartridge at a time. Test kit is API master.
We just added the 2 spotted cory's they were the last 2 they had. The tin foil barbs we were told by the people at the LFS would be fine after getting home and reading more about them found out just how big they really get. We are planning to get a 125-150 gal after we move.

Sounds like you've got a good grasp on everything . Most likely the switching of the media along with adding the Corys threw you into a mini-cycle. It'll take some time for the beneficial bacteria to stabilize and adjust to the bio-load. During this time it'll be very important to closely monitor the ammo level and do water changes to make sure ammonia and nitrIte levels never climb above .25 (the level it begins burring the gills of the fish).

This is a link that deals with cycling with fish. It's titled for when you first buy fish, but the same info applies to mini-cycles. If your ammo is at .25 right now and you haven't been doing daily water changes, I'd bet you are towards the end of the mini-cycle and the previous higher spike in ammo is what likely led to the demise of your barbs. Check out the link and good luck!
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forum...-but-i-already-have-fish-what-now-116287.html

Also, it's awesome you did a fishless cycle. I hope you do the same for your future tanks! The link in my signature is a guide about it, and can hopefully give you a head start on the next one you do .

 

[FoxRob]

I've been doing daily PWC changes for the past week, it has been about a month since I changed the filter media. The cory's we only got 2 days ago.

We did get another 29 gallon tank to put our tiger barbs into after we came home to a rosey barb with not fins and the other 5 nipped at they were also nipping away on our bristlenose pleco. We used one of the filter media and water(they were already acclimated to it) from the 55 gallon in it to try and boost it's cycle. If the situation was different it would have been cycled without fish too. We lost 2 tigers from the 8 that were in it, but they were very stressed from the move into another tank it took the others about a week to get all there color back. They have been fine otherwise.

 

[JustinKScott]

SO if I'm testing any ammonia it is too high still? My tap water tests at 1.0 and my 55 gal is reading .25 with my 29 gal is .50 when I last tested them. I do use the API master kit.

Woah. Your tap is 1.0? That sounds like a health risk to your family!! I'd stop worrying about the poor fishies, and worry more about your family's water source.

Are you letting the water run a little first? Drain the water sitting in your pipes/hose.

That being said, for your fishies... I'd give up on prime & tap water. Use the prime money and spend it on culligan water from walmart.

 

[eco23]

I've been doing daily PWC changes for the past week, it has been about a month since I changed the filter media. The cory's we only got 2 days ago.

We did get another 29 gallon tank to put our tiger barbs into after we came home to a rosey barb with not fins and the other 5 nipped at they were also nipping away on our bristlenose pleco. We used one of the filter media and water(they were already acclimated to it) from the 55 gallon in it to try and boost it's cycle. If the situation was different it would have been cycled without fish too. We lost 2 tigers from the 8 that were in it, but they were very stressed from the move into another tank it took the others about a week to get all there color back. They have been fine otherwise.

The most important thing is that you seem to understand the situation, and I see you are putting in the effort to remedy it. Things can sometimes seem overwhelming...but the truth is that there is rarely a problem that can't be solved with a bucket and a bottle of Seachem Prime. You're also doing a good job of recognizing incompatibilities and taking the steps to improve the situation.

To answer the question you first posted...it's perfectly normal to see an ammonia reading after dosing Prime. Once that ammo reading is zero 24 hours after the pwc...that means your tank has balanced out and things are back to being balanced.

If you don't already have one...a Python or Aqueon water changes is an absolute life saver. I'm not sure I'd be able to keep fish without one, lol. Best $30 I've ever spent in this hobby. You can pick up a water changer at the chain stores and also find them cheaper online. Since you use Prime, drain the water you are removing, add Prime directly to the tap for the TOTAL VOLUME OF THE TANK (not just what you are replacing), and you can put the raw tap water directly into the tank. It's also a good idea to turn off your filter during the process to prevent the chlorine / chloramines from being sucked up into your filter before the Prime has a chance to neutralize it

 

[eco23]

Woah. Your tap is 1.0? That sounds like a health risk to your family!! I'd stop worrying about the poor fishies, and worry more about your family's water source.

Are you letting the water run a little first? Drain the water sitting in your pipes/hose.

That being said, for your fishies... I'd give up on prime & tap water. Use the prime money and spend it on culligan water from walmart.

You'd be surprised. I run a water purification company, and the average American home has more chlorine in their water than a swimming pool has. It's just one of those examples where ignorance is bliss.