Converting to Freshwater

[MarkW19]

Hi guys,

I'm converting my 55g SW tank to FW, and I've got a few questions...

I've got SW lights (obviously) - T5 arcadias white/actinics @ 39w each.

Do I really have to get the FW versions of these, or will the lights I've got be ok?

The main thing that's attracting me to FW, is that I can have a lot more fish in it. I'm hoping to get some colourful bigger fish (about 4), maybe cichlids, and then a couple of fairly large shoals of tiny fish that won't grow much, whatever they may be. May also be interested in breeding the cichlids, if possible.

I'm obviously going to use the heater I've got, and I'm going to buy an internal filter.

Do I have to cycle the FW tank like I did with my SW? I'm guessing I do...if so, can it be done with fish in? I know this was highly advised against in SW, presumingly because the SW fish are much more fragile and less tolerable to ammonia and nitrite?

So can I get a couple of the fish I want to cycle the tank with first? Is it just a case of feeding them normally, monitoring ammonia/nitrite/nitrate until the cycle is complete, then making sure the levels drop to an acceptable level, then slowly building up my fish stock?

Or would it be better to do a fishless cycle? If so, how?

Can I feed the majority of FW fish with my usual brineshrimp/mysis/veggies frozen food that I did my SW, or do they need different food?

Do I need to RO the water or add anything to it, or is just normal tapwater going to be ok?

I'm either going to use crushed coral as the substrate, or add buffer to the original tapwater and future water changes, to help maintain the pH of the water. Are there any other water chemistry levels I need to maintain?

What's the level of maintanance like? How often would I expect to have to do a waterchange (I used to do 20% every 2 weeks in my SW) and clean anything in the tank (glass, filter, substrate, rocks etc.)? I had to clean basically every few days in my SW because there was so much algae everywhere and on the glass, which was frustrating!

I'd also want a good selection of greenery and plants - would I have to do any maintanance with these, like trimming or anything? If so, how often?

I'm also concerned about ich and other diseases as I've lost SW fish to them in the past. Is it really neccessary to QT new FW fish? I really don't have the room or facilities for a QT tank. And, if my fish do happen to get ich or another disease, can medication be added to the tank to sort it out? This wasn't really possible in SW because the inverts were intolerable to copper in the meds etc. Is it easier to treat diseases in FW?

Thanks for your patience guys, and I look forward to your answers!

Mark

 

[Fishyfanatic]

Do I really have to get the FW versions of these, or will the lights I've got be ok?

As long as you aren't planting the tank, you can use whatever lights you want. Higher wattage will cause more algae, but as I'm sure you already know, actinic lights do not cause as much algae as pure lights. Certain fish look good with certain lights. Community fish do not look as attractive with Actinics, but African cichlids definately do.

I'm obviously going to use the heater I've got, and I'm going to buy an internal filter.

What kind of filter are you currently using? For a 55 gal tank, I'd recommend a canister over an internal filter. Canisters are much more efficient and are easily hidden.

Do I have to cycle the FW tank like I did with my SW?

Yes. You can use fish, but it is highly unadvisable. Freshwater fish are no different than saltwater fish in that ammonia and nitrites are not good for them. FW fish can tolerate some levels, but it is not healthy. Some FW can not tolerate any ammonia or nitrites. Plus, it is easier to cycle without fish because you won't have to do daily water changes or monitor the levels as closely. It is faster to cycle fishless also. You can cycle using pure ammonia, raw shrimp, or decaying fish food. I would use pure ammonia since the alternatives will smell and make the tank cloudy. Plus, who wants to look at a decaying shrimp or fish food.

Can I feed them my usual brineshrimp/mysis/veggies frozen food that I did my SW, or do they need different food?

This depends on which fish you want to keep. Flake is generally a staple plus the additions of variety foods.

Do I need to RO the water, or is just normal tapwater going to be ok?

As long as your tapwater is drinkable, it is fine to use. Using only RO water is not a good idea in freshwater since it strips the water. There is no need to use it unless you have a very high pH and hard water (8.1 +). Even then it is mixed 50/50 with tap.

I know the pH needs to be at a certain level - how do I get to this level in the first place, and maintain it? Are there any other water chemistry levels I need to maintain?

Do not mess with the pH unless it is very high. pH does not need to be set at a certain level. Freshwater fish have been bred for so long in captivity that the pH does not matter. This is of course as long as you don't have pH of 8.1 + or lower than 6.0. But that is highly unlikely. The water should test 0 Ammonia and Nitrites and present Nitrates below 30 ppm. Anything above 30 ppm is dangerous. But it should at least be 5 ppm.

What's the level of maintanance like? How often would I expect to have to do a waterchange (I used to do 20% every 2 weeks in my SW) and clean anything in the tank (glass, filter, substrate, rocks etc.)?

I do 25% to 30% on my tanks every week. The 150 I do two 30% water changes per week. Scrubbing algae whenever it because present. Filter maintenance I do once a month. Substrate is done at water changes using the gravel vac. I don't clean the decor until algae forms or it starts to look like it needs to be cleaned. A great tool for freshwater tanks is the Python. I don't believe they can be used in saltwater since of course the saltwater has to be pre-mixed. Basically the python hooks to your faucet. Turn on the water and put the hose in your tank. It will suck out the water while you gravel vac. Then when you have removed enough water, turn the knob and the tank refills. Add dechlorinator as it is refilling. It is a miracle tool that anyone with a tank larger than 10 gal should have. I haven't done the bucket brigade in over a year. Regarding your substrate, what do you plan on using?

I'd also want a good selection of greenery and plants - would I have to do any maintanance with these, like trimming or anything? If so, how often?

Fake plants = no trimming. Real plants = trim when needed. I trim my Anacharis once a week because it grows like weeds. The anubias I have never had to trim and I've had it for about 8 months now. If you do plan on going with live plants, you will need to change your bulbs. I'm not sure how many bulbs are in the light strip, but if you are above 110 watts, you'll need CO2 injection. Then you will be able to get into the mid-level plants. Any questions on plants should be posted in the Planted Forum. They give great advice.

HTH.

 

[MarkW19]

Thanks a lot, some really good help there!

My current filter is an Eheim canister wet/dry (saltwater model), but it's massive and I was hoping to just get something I could hide in the tank somewhere behind some plants or rocks or whatever that doesn't take up half the living room and look like a life support machine! I guess if a canister would be much better I can always get a new smaller one that I can find a space for.

I'm planning on only using the white bulbs (I used to use both actinics and whites on my SW), there are 2 of them @ 39w each, so 78w. I don't need CO2 injection then, because I am looking at keeping live plants? I know these are @ 9,500k, while the FW ones Arcadia do are @ 7,500k. Will this difference in colour mean the lights I've got won't be ok for live plants in the FW then?

The Python looks like a great idea!! So I just add the dechlorinator straight into the tank as I'm filling it back up with new tapwater? If I'm using buffer powder, would I add this at that point too, straight into the tank? What about the temperature of the water - the tapwater going in will be very cold (I do live in the UK!), with a 20% waterchange will this be a problem? Of course in my SW I used to raise the temp of the water going in before I actually put it in. I'm either going to be using gravel or crushed coral (in which case I know I wouldn't need to add buffer) as the substrate.

I'll cycle with ammonia then - I guess there'll be instructions on the packaging as to how much to put in etc. But how long would you expect the cycle to last for?

And, when the cycle is complete, do the fish have to be added slowly to avoid a spike? Of course I'll add them according to how territorial they are etc., but in the case of the largish shoals of tiny fish (whatever they may be) I'm wanting, would I be ok to add an appropriate number of these all at once without expecting a spike?

Thanks again! My bookmark has now being changed from the SW forum to here

 

[Fishyfanatic]

Canisters are great because all you see is the input and output tubes. They are easily hidden by plants. The rest of the unit tucks under the tank in the stand. Whichever brand you purchase is up to you. Everyone has a favorite.

I would post the question about the plants in the Planted Forum. I am a beginner myself and only keep low light plants. Actually, I have .6 wpg. They would be able to point you in the right direction.

Why would you use buffer powder? Do not add anything to the water except dechlorinator. And yes, just add it to the tank as you are refilling. The temp of the water should be the same that is in the tank. Adjust the temp on the faucet to the correct temp before refilling. The python hoods directly to the faucet.

Crushed coral is only really used for African Cichlids. Even then, I still won't use it as a substrate. I put a bag of it in my canister filter to help increase the hardness and pH of my water. You could use either sand or gravel.

There is an article about cycling fishless using ammonia. Tom2K (or TomK2, I can't remember which is his nick) has the formula for how much ammonia to add to achieve the desired results. Use pure ammonia. It can be purchased from Ace Hardware or another hardware type store. But it must be pure. I've never seen it at the lfs.

After the cycle is complete only add a few at a time, giving about a week between additions. Monitor ammonia levels so if there is a spike, do a water change.

 

[MarkW19]

I think I'll just put a bag of crushed coral hidden somewhere in the tank then, as you said to increase the hardness of the water. I'll probably use gravel as the substrate.

The only problem is going to be the temperature of the water - I can only attach the Python to my Cold or Hot tap - the cold will be too cold and the hot too hot! 8O

 

[Tiffi]

I think I'll just put a bag of crushed coral hidden somewhere in the tank then, as you said to increase the hardness of the water.

What are your water parameters? If your kH is over 3 your parameters will be stable enough and you don't need to add crushed corals at all. This is just to prevent the pH that is correlated with the kH from going up and down, killing the fishes if it's under 3. Besides, most FW fish like it around neutral pH or sometimes even acidic, and many also love soft water.

The only problem is going to be the temperature of the water

You can always let some cold water run into the tank and than some warm water and so forth, to not freeze or boil your fishes. If that doesn't work, you might need to consider filling your tank with buckets again.

I was hoping to just get something I could hide in the tank somewhere behind some plants or rocks or whatever that doesn't take up half the living room and look like a life support machine!

Most FW canister filter are really fairly small. I guess in the UK you should be able to get a good, regular Eheim canister somewhere.

And, when the cycle is complete, do the fish have to be added slowly to avoid a spike?

I always start feeding a little more before I add some more fish, that way bacteria already have some time to get multyplied for the new bioload. How big are your schools going to be? If it's like 10-15 even tiny fishes I doubt that 2 such schools plus cichlids will fit into your 55gal.

 

[MarkW19]

My schools were going to be about 10-15...I could maybe go for one school then 3-4 bigger fishes, would that work?

I guess I could get some sort of attachment to mix together the hot and cold taps, and create a temperature of water that's similar to that in the tank?

 

[Jchillin]

The Python! Probably the greatest gadget invented for water changes. Plug to your sink and you can empty and fill the tank in just a matter of minutes. After a little practice, you will be able to tell the water temp just by touch. Until then, running a thermometer under the flow will let you know what your temp is and you can make the necessary adjustments.

http://bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=19125;category_id=2937

 

[Tiffi]

A school of 10-15 tiny fishes and some bigger one's will be fine. You can always kind of orientate yourself on the 1" per gallon rule.

 

[MarkW19]

Good

Now to the filter - I really don't want an external canister one, if I can avoid it.

I know an internal one will take up room in the tank, but I can always hide it from view with plants etc. My tank isn't in a cabinet, and space around it is really limited.

I've been looking at the Eheim internal Aquaball filters - will one of these be ok for my tank, with one of the compartments filled with the ehfisubstrat filter media?

Are there any other internal options for the filter without having to resort to a canister?

 

[Guest]

mostly the external HOB or canister filters are your best bet because they are much easier to clean and maintain. If you get an internal filter, cover it with plants, not only are you going to have a risk of the filter intake clogging, but you have to take it out every time you need to clean the media. does your tank have a stand underneath it that youcanput afilter in? Is their room behind it for a HOB filter?

 

[MarkW19]

No room underneath (no stand) and no room at the back - perhaps I could get a HOB one somewhere that will hang on the side (ie. not the back) - is this possible?

How often does the media have to be cleaned, and how is it cleaned? Just by beaing rinsed with tank water?

 

[Guest]

yes, rinsing in tank water. I have 2 aquaclear 70's on my 55 gallon tank and I just rinse the sponges out about once a month or whenever the flow slows down or backs up. Every once in a while i will put AC in I only leave it in for 4 weeks when i do.

 

[greenmaji]

I have noticed one diffence in equipment between SW and FW.. it seems most SW tanks dont need as much watts for the heater because of the extra heat generated by the cirulating pumps and high intensity lighting..
I recomend 5 watts per gallon for heaters for freshwater.. if your current heater is smaller then this you can just add a second heater that will bring the total watts up to this.. (275 watts.. aproximately 300 watts)

 

[Fishyfanatic]

Yes you can put the filters on the side of the tank. They can be placed wherever you want.