Desperate for help after PWC in 120g

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As mentioned, only topping the tank off is quite dangerous for the fish as the nitrates are removed, which is essentially why a water change is performed. With such a large tank a 20% water change every week or nine days is most beneficial to the fish.
Since the fish are struggling now, I would do small water changes of about 10% everyday. Hopefully this will flush out any nasties that are in the water.
Do you vacuum the substrate at all?
 
Mebbid said:
1. How much surface agitation is there in the tank?
2. Is this the first time you've ever seen fish gasping for air?
3. Do you use a dechlorinator?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't really say they were all gasping. Surface agitation is good. Have 2 HOBs and a spray bar from my canister filter. And a 12" air stone and sponge filter in the tank.


Jason7894561230 said:
As mentioned, only topping the tank off is quite dangerous for the fish as the nitrates are removed, which is essentially why a water change is performed. With such a large tank a 20% water change every week or nine days is most beneficial to the fish.
Since the fish are struggling now, I would do small water changes of about 10% everyday. Hopefully this will flush out any nasties that are in the water.
Do you vacuum the substrate at all?
Click to expand...

I vacuum the top of the substrate. I have sand and Eco complete. So if I vacuum like I normally would for gravel it would all get sucked up. I thought it would be beneficial too for the WCs. But clearly something happened with this water change that my nitrates are getting all screwed up. My nitrates are back up to 80 now. pH is 7. Ammonia is .25.

I'm almost afraid to do another water change if this happened with my last one.

I use our well water. I add stress coat to it and hats it. I also have API tap water conditioner and TetraAqua aquasafe. But like I said I only use stress coat.
 
The only thing I can think of is the water you added to the tank was devoid of oxygen causing the gasping at the surface. You could try another water change and if it has the same effect try another water change the next day after the new water sat out overnight.
 
Autumnsky said:
Did you get a pH reading? And if you can compare the tank water pH with your well water pH. Just a thought.
Click to expand...


Tank is 7 right now. Was like 7.2 or 7.4 before the change. I work 12 hour shifts and still at work so unable to check my well water right now.
 
RO water isn't needed. I'd just test your tap water and see what it says. Check ammonia, ph, nitrite, and nitrate. Then, take some tap water and let it sit for one day, preferably two and check the ph again. If there is a big jump between the two days, you could have a decent amount of CO2 dissolved in your water. From there, you can keep on eliminating one variable at a time.
 
I think we are getting a little distracted from what the primary issue is here. A big pH swing will cause health issues for fish but that doesn't include gasping at the surface. Neither will sudden changes in nitrate or temperature. Ammonia / Nitrite COULD possibly cause that but for a 25% water change to have that kind of effect the concentration of either in the tap water would have to be around 20ppm+


To the op: Do you use a water softener?
 
I'm just trying to think of some things that might help this situation. Clearly something happened with the last water change.

And no, we don't have a water softener.
 
Test your nitrates again and make sure you follow procedure. Your nitrates were at 160 and then you changed 25% and they're at 20-40? That doesn't add up, please elaborate.

Also, you should probably take a look at your stocking a little closer.
Tiger barbs need groups of 6 minimum for each kind. (i.e. 6 regular, 6 green, etc)

Regardless, you have ammonia in a cycled tank, your bioload is outweighing your bacteria. Test again, and I would make a 50% water change.

AqAdvisor had this to say about your stocking, and I don't even know what your filtration situation is:

Note: Kissing Gourami needs driftwood.
Warning: Kissing Gourami is not recommended to be with Blue Gourami - they may agressively fight.
Warning: Kissing Gourami is not recommended to be with Golden Gourami - they may agressively fight.
Warning: When Parrot Cichlid starts to breed, they may become too aggressive to co-exist with Kissing Gourami.
Warning: Tiger Barb may become food for Kissing Gourami.
Warning: Green Tiger Barb may become food for Kissing Gourami.
Warning: Serpae Tetra may become food for Kissing Gourami.
Warning: Cardinal Tetra may become food for Kissing Gourami.
Warning: Blue Gourami is not recommended to be with Kissing Gourami - they may agressively fight.
Warning: Blue Gourami is not recommended to be with Golden Gourami - they may agressively fight.
Warning: When Parrot Cichlid starts to breed, they may become too aggressive to co-exist with Blue Gourami.
Warning: Golden Gourami is not recommended to be with Kissing Gourami - they may agressively fight.
Warning: Golden Gourami is not recommended to be with Blue Gourami - they may agressively fight.
Warning: When Parrot Cichlid starts to breed, they may become too aggressive to co-exist with Golden Gourami.
Warning: Tiger Barb may become food for Parrot Cichlid.
Warning: Green Tiger Barb may become food for Parrot Cichlid.
Warning: Serpae Tetra may become food for Parrot Cichlid.
Warning: Cardinal Tetra may become food for Parrot Cichlid.
Note: Fire Eel may escape - lids are recommended.
Warning: When Parrot Cichlid starts to breed, they may become too aggressive to co-exist with Tiger Barb.
Warning: When Parrot Cichlid starts to breed, they may become too aggressive to co-exist with Green Tiger Barb.
Note: Chinese Algae Eater will become incredibly aggressive and destructive when they become adults.
Note: Rainbow Shark may jump - lids are recommended.
Warning: When Kissing Gourami starts to breed, they may become too aggressive to co-exist with Serpae Tetra.
Warning: When Parrot Cichlid starts to breed, they may become too aggressive to co-exist with Serpae Tetra.
Warning: Kissing Gourami is too aggressive to co-exist with Cardinal Tetra.
Warning: Blue Gourami is too aggressive to co-exist with Cardinal Tetra.
Warning: Golden Gourami is too aggressive to co-exist with Cardinal Tetra.
Warning: Parrot Cichlid is too aggressive to co-exist with Cardinal Tetra.
Warning: Tiger Barb is too aggressive to co-exist with Cardinal Tetra.
Warning: Green Tiger Barb is too aggressive to co-exist with Cardinal Tetra.
Warning: Chinese Algae Eater is too aggressive to co-exist with Cardinal Tetra.
Warning: Rainbow Shark is too aggressive to co-exist with Cardinal Tetra.
Warning: Banded Leporinus is too aggressive to co-exist with Cardinal Tetra.
Warning: When Parrot Cichlid starts to breed, they may become too aggressive to co-exist with Rosy Barb.
Note: Banded Leporinus may jump - lids are recommended.
Warning: Serpae Tetra may become food for Banded Leporinus.
Warning: Cardinal Tetra may become food for Banded Leporinus.
Warning: At least 5 x Cardinal Tetra are recommended in a group.
 
Idk who or what that advisor is. Buuuut as far as the parrots go, I've never heard anyone breeding them. They are a hybrid. And as far as the rest goes. Everyone gets along fine. (Sorry don't mean so sound like an ***, a majority of them were given to me when I started the tank or they were going to get flushed). And i do have lids on securely.

As for the nitrates, no. Tested before WC and it was 80. Did the water change and came down to 20-40. Later that night (Thursday) they started acting weird (the swimming at the top including my cats) and tested again with nitrates reading 160. Did not do a water change for fear of causing more damage since this occurred right after a PWC of 25%. Friday morning tested water again with nitrate reading of 20-40. No WC done. Friday night tested again with readings of 80. Again no water change done for fear of causing more damage.

If I do a water change should I use spring water?

Note: previous readings of nitrates were at 80 with no affects on fish. I have been doing bi monthly PWC and this has never happened before.
 
Again I do not mean to sound like an *** or rude my any means with the previous post. I appreciate ALL help from everyone. As far as the grouping goes, I was always told 5 or more for schools of tetras.
 
PAwrangler08 said:
As for the nitrates, no. Tested before WC and it was 80. Did the water change and came down to 20-40. Later that night (Thursday) they started acting weird (the swimming at the top including my cats) and tested again with nitrates reading 160. Did not do a water change for fear of causing more damage since this occurred right after a PWC of 25%. Friday morning tested water again with nitrate reading of 20-40. No WC done. Friday night tested again with readings of 80. Again no water change done for fear of causing more damage.

If I do a water change should I use spring water?

Note: previous readings of nitrates were at 80 with no affects on fish. I have been doing bi monthly PWC and this has never happened before.
Click to expand...


These nitrate readings don't add up. Your level shouldn't swing up and down without a water change. Especially not by that much. If your nitrates are 80ppm and you change 25% of the water, you should be looking at closer to 60ppm, unless your tap has nitrates in it, that would affect your ability to dilute the nitrates in the tank. As long as none of your fish are super sensitive, water changes can't really hurt your tank.

AqAdvisor.com is a great site to get general knowledge on stocking plans. Just pick your tank size, filter(s) and fish and they'll tell you what to be on the look out for.
 
Hmm ok I'll check that site out.

As for the nitrates I know, that's what's boggling me. I have no idea where to turn now. I will be testing the nitrates today on my tap (well) water and posting them.
 
Ok tested the tank water again today and this is what I got.

pH about 7-7.2
Ammonia is hard to tell. Can't distinguish if it's 0 or .25
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 40-80
GH 1
KH 3

ImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1390237289.245598.jpg

Testing tap water now.
 
ImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1390237780.039260.jpg

And this is the tap.

pH 6.4 maybe.
Ammonia looks the same as the tank 0?
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 10-20
GH 3
KH 2?

ImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1390238027.234410.jpg

GH is left KH is right. Would these be considered done?
 
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