Dr. Tim's One and Only - Fishless Cycling

[SCC93]

Hi all,

I'm a fishless cycling newbie and started my first attempt at cycling my filtered 5.5 gallon betta tank almost 2 weeks ago using pure ammonia (from ACE) and TSS. Ammonia started going down from 4.0 ppm to 0.5 ppm but then I had 2 dying Amazon Sword leaves that spiked the ammonia back up. Not sure what this did to the bacteria but it's been stuck between 2-4 ppm the past 5 days so I added a tiny bit of API Quick Start but still no change. I've never had any nitrties or nitrates either.

I did a PWC last night and ammonia was at about 1 ppm after the change. If ammonia still doesn't change in the next few days I think I will use Dr. Tim's One and Only but I just have a few questions about how to use it.

1) My current filter cartridge is pretty dirty/gross so would changing it out with a new cartridge help the One and Only bacteria grow better or does the state of the cartridge not make a difference? I know people say not to change it during a fishless cycle but I believe mine has stalled so not sure how much a difference keeping it in makes.

2) Should I keep doing PWC to get the ammonia close to 0 then dose it back up (not sure what level to aim for this time) or just add One and Only into the tank and make sure ammonia doesn't drop too low?

 

[Hholly]

You don't need to do any pwc until the nitrates and nitrites spike, or if the pH drops. The icky filter is good. Don't ever change the cartridge until it's falling apart as it houses the beneficial bacteria. When you do need to change it, keep part of it in the filter to culture the new cartridge. If it's dirty, swish it in some used tank water to clean it, or other dechlorinated water. Here's a handy article:
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/the-almost-complete-guide-and-faq-to-fishless-cycling/

 

[militantpotato]

If your ph is below 6.5 or so it can stall the cycle, usually nitrites will show up before that happens. If you're using unbuffered rodi water, it happens very quickly due to lack of kh.

I'm a fan of regular water changes during fishless cycling, just to replace the buffering capacity, which is really all you need to worry about aside from correct ammonia levels.

My only question would be if your city uses chloramine, and does dechlorinator remove it?


Sent from my LG-E980 using Aquarium Advice mobile app