Few topics I need some help on..Please.

[Jack]

If your using medication for a bacterial infection, you can feed medicated flake in the main tank. The concentration of medicine is relatively high in the flake, but pretty miniscule for the whole tank. Tetra makes Tetra Medica, which works well for bacterial infections. Of course, your fish have to be feeding for this to work.

Medications for parasites usually contain copper, which can be detrimental to plants and invertebrates (snails and such). Some fish are also sensitive to copper.

As Tankgirl stated, a hospital tank is really the best way to medicate if you are using medicines designed to saturate the water. When you're done, you can remove the fish and place in the main tank. Another positve out of doing it this way is that you avoid the staining in your main tank, that often accompanies fish medications.

 

[Allivymar]

LOL guess I should have clarified. I was thinking along the lines of having to medicate for Ich. That requires the entire tank to be medicated and most ich meds will kill off a bacterial colony. So what do people do? Can't pull a bio-wheel out; you'll wind up reinfecting the tank when you replace it. Never have figured that one out.

I do have a QT. I have never used it for sick fish (yet. I'm sure that day is coming), but its been used many time for new fish. Its a definite must have IMHO.

 

[reberly]

As far as where to put the filter media when you take it out... get a rubbermaid or tupperware container big enough for your filter media. Fill it with tank water, add your cartridge, and make sure it doesn't dry up.

Ryan

 

[TankGirl]

If you store your filter media elsewhere get a small air pump and run an air stone in there, as the bacteria needs oxygen to survive, as well as some ammonia, like with a small fish. Tank water, air pump, small fish equals Quarrantine/Hospital tank!

 

[FinNipper]

Update: I just checked my ammonia and nitrite levels, ammonia is about the same(.25-.50) and my nitrites I believe went down from 1.6 to .8 if I'm reading the results right. I'm using the aquarium pharmaceuticals brand for my ammonia and nutrafin for my nitrite(both test tubes). Do I just wait it out or change 25% of the water again? Pleco still breathing hard but the rest seem just fine.

Few(probably stupid) questions about hospital tanks:

I have a two gallon marineland explorer tank that I got as a QT/Hospital tank. I've been currently using it for one of my guppies for 8 days now. At first I took out the filter media(sponge/carbon), left the biowheel in there, filled it with old tank water, added salt and quick cure for the first 5 days then I made a small water change and started using tetracycline instead of the quick cure(he's been breathing hard as well/hiding/not active). Today I checked the water and the nitrites were up in there as well(because I used main tank water when setting it up), but no ammonia, so I went ahead and changed All the water with dechlorinated water that I always have sitting in gallon jugs by my tank..same temp. Added the salt and todays dose of tetracycline. He's still breathing hard, may have gill disease :? .

Questions:

Was it a good idea to change all of the water if it's only a 2 gallon tank?

How do I set it up next time I need to use it as a qt or hospital tank?..details please, I don't want to do anything wrong. Do I need the filter media at all or just use the sponge part of it?..do I replace it? Do I tear it down after each use and rinse it out?

Thanks for all the help and I know I'm asking a lot of questions

 

[Allivymar]

IMHO, a QT/hotel tank needs:

A filter. Pull out the carbon if your medicating, but leave the floss/sponge/whatever it uses.

A heater.

Some aeration if the filter doesn't agitate the surface.

A plastic plant, a ceramic log/PVP pipe for fish that need a hiding place.

Thats it. Well, that and lots of water changes to keep ammonia and nitrites down. A bio-wheel isnt necessary for a QT tank, although if you use it as a hotel tank as I do, you'd keep it cycled for those days when you just CANT resist the fishie in the window LOL If you are stronger then me, you just clean it all very well and tuck it away for next time.

The plec....poor baby. He may not have gill disease per say. He may have burnt gills from the ammonia. Keep giving the poor guy fresh water and watch him; unfortunately if thats what it is, there is no "cure", just time.

From fish-disease.com:
Symptoms:

The fish will hang just under the surface with labored breathing. Its gills will appear to be lilac in color. Red streaking may be seen throughout the body and fins. Fishes with ammonia poisoning will become lethargic and eventually die, maintaining their full coloring. The ammonia will damage their skin, gills, nerves and internal organs. The red streaking is due to hemorrhages (internal and external bleeding). Its mucous membranes of the skin and intestine are also destroyed. Damage also occurs to the brain and central nervous system.

Cause:

Abnormally high levels of ammonia.

Treatment:

Test the water to confirm the disease. If ammonia levels are high, perform an immediate water change. It’s also a good idea to use a chemical that will remove the ammonia. Activated carbon, Ammo-Lock, or Tetra Easy Balance.

 

[FinNipper]

Thank you so much for the info Allivymar! Is .25-.5ppm of ammonia a high enough level to poison fish? I'll keep updating on the pleco's health and water quality. So should I go ahead and do another water change?

 

[Allivymar]

Poo. I did a whole answer and lost the connection LOL

One mo' time.

Ammonia is dangerous at any levels, especially so in the case of your plec. I'd continue water changes to keep diluting those ammonia levels. It will take longer for your tank to cycle, but better to have clean non toxic water eh?

 

[FinNipper]

Will do!

I read your post about the marimo balls you got..very cool looking. Hmm, wonder if I should put one in there for them to play around with..lol.

 

[Allivymar]

Heh they are really neat. I wish they would do the moving around thing, although I would be utterly freaked out if I saw it LOL

I have to admit, I didn't put one in the tank with the plec...thought it might wind up as an expensive meal LOL although I've heard plecs actually don't eat em. Once in a while I catch one of the cherry shrimp hanging out on top like a king of the mountain LOL next time I'll grab a pic.

 

[FinNipper]

Ammonia is at .25 and nitrite down to .3, another water change tonight? Pleco still the same.

 

[Allivymar]

I'd keep doing small frequent water changes...the less toxins in the water the better.

Plecs are funny. Mine is busy sulking. He moved into a new 55g tank today. Last time he moved he sulked for 2 weeks; i thought he was dying. Never moved, barely ate. I guess the poor guy doesn't handle moving well. I'm guessing most plecs don't.

 

[FinNipper]

Update:

I'm keeping the ammonia below .25 and the nitrites below .3 by doing 20% water changes every day. I think my pleco is doing a bit better, he's breathing slower at times..I'll let you know when my levels go to 0. Hope soon lol

Summary:

Main 20 gal tank:
July 26 - 25% water change - Ammonia .5 - Nitrate 10
July 27 - Ammonia .25-.5 - Nitrite 1.6 - Added 20ml of Bio-Spira
July 28 - Water quality same - 25% water change - Added 8ml of Bio-Spira
July 29 - Ammonia .25-.5 - Nitrite .8 - 22% water change(Ammonia .25 - Nitrite .3)
July 30 - Ammonia .25 - Nitrite .3
July 31 - Ammonia .25 - Nitrite .2
August 1 - Ammonia .25 - Nitrite .2
August 2 - 20% water change - Ammonia .25 - Nitrite .2
August 3 - 20% water change - Ammonia <.25 - Nitrite .2

 

[TheNewGuy]

after reading this entire thread I didn't see anyone metion that you should never leave your bio wheel in a tank that is being medicated. when you medicate a tank scoop out some water before you add the chemicals and put the bio wheel in there with a air bubbler so the bacteria get some oxygen.

Glad to hear that your tank is starting to come around. Good job!