Filter burnt out, going to order new one, but how long do my fish...

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gust get a jug and dip water out of the tank and dump it in to keep the gass exchange going. or get an air pump and add a big air bar for oxygen.
 
How long before you can replace the filter ? Stop feeding the fish ! If they don't eat, they produce much less waste, and that will help some, and they can go a week without eating.

How many fish and of what size ? What size tank ? You're going to have to do water changes often, you can't risk ammonia building up. If you have many fish, that can happen disturbingly fast.
 
Are you out in the middle of nowhere? Leave a bubbler going and go to your nearest pet shop and buy the cheapest filter that will allow you to transfer your media over. Not much ammonia will build up while you're out purchasing the filter. When the filter you ordered arrives, put the media back in and/or run it alongside of the temporary filter. Once the new filter is seeded, remove the temporary filter and keep it as a back-up in case this ever happens again.

This is why I have a back-up filter in my closet! Mechanical things sometimes break, unfortunately.

Good luck,
David
 
Hello A...

If you're talking a day or two before you get the filter, just remove the cover of the tank and set up a fan. Point the fan at the top of the tank and set it to move back and forth over the water's surface. This is all that's really needed, short term.

If you're looking at a few days, then add an air pump with a long line of plastic tubing to it. Run the tubing down the side of the tank, into the tank water. A small suction cup will secure the end of the tubing to the side of the tank. The large bubbles will give you the surface movement the tank needs for oxygen to mix in the water and for the CO2 to escape.

B
 
BB, that sounds simple, but if he has a big stock of fish and it's days before he gets a new filter, he will have to do water changes. He might be out in the middle of nowhere. Lots of folks are.

It's possible to use low salt concentrations to limit the uptake of nitrite in fish, it's done while shipping fish and reduces losses up to 90% compared to not using it, for short term use of course.

I agree, keeping a spare or backup filter is simple common sense. I have several and always spare sponges in the ones that are running.
 
Filterless Tank

BB, that sounds simple, but if he has a big stock of fish and it's days before he gets a new filter, he will have to do water changes. He might be out in the middle of nowhere. Lots of folks are.

It's possible to use low salt concentrations to limit the uptake of nitrite in fish, it's done while shipping fish and reduces losses up to 90% compared to not using it, for short term use of course.

I agree, keeping a spare or backup filter is simple common sense. I have several and always spare sponges in the ones that are running.

Hello Fish...

It's pretty simple. Of course, I'm guessing the poster is used to doing large, frequent water changes and not feeding the fish too much. The filtration equipment is really only for aerating the tank water. It does little to keep the tank water pure. Only large, regular water changes will do this job. Even if the filter is out for a week, the water should be fine by adding the air pump and tubing. A routine of small feedings just twice a week, won't be enough to foul the tank water, even with a heavy fish load.

B
 
I got a new filter and have been changing the water. Things seem smooth now
 
Hello Ap...

Good for you and your fish. Keep up on your water changes. Half the tank volume, removed and replaced every week with pure, treated tap water is the best thing you can do for your fish and plants.

By just changing out the water, religiously, you'll avoid 99 percent of tank problems.

Have fun,

B
 
Bradbury

The filtration equipment contains a sponge that beneficial bacteria colonise on. This bacteria is responsible for breaking down nitrites that are released when ammonia is broken down initially by another bacteria that colonise on the substrate/ornaments etc.

Water changes compliment this process to keep the water as safe for the fish as possible. That's why Only a 25% water change is recommended as not to disturb the water quality/bacteria etc.

Without the filter. There is no way of breaking down these excess of nitrites. Frequent and large Water changes are only advisable in an emergency I.e when ammonia levels exceed 0.25 ppm.

Ammonia comes from fish waste, uneaten food, decaying organisms such as plants and fish and fish respiration.

Fishfur is implying that by not feeding, ammonia will take longer to build up but inevitably it will. The substrate bacteria will convert this ammonia to an also harmful nitrite. Without the filter, this cannot be processed into the less harmful nitrate.
Filters do much more than aerate the tank.

Glad you got it sorted bud.
 
Hello Cal...

The good bacteria lives on every surface inside the tank. Granted, a good percentage lives in the filter media, but it also lives on plants, decorations, substrate, everywhere where there's a surface and a steady flow of oxygen. Large, weekly water changes, remove the forms of nitrogen before they have a chance to build up in the water and stress the fish, so the fish are always living in pure water conditions. The filters in such a tank would just be moving water that was already pure.

If a tank keeper was motivated to do it and changed half the water in the tank daily, there'd be no reason for filtration of any kind. The daily water change would provide the gas exchange and the toxic forms of nitrogen would be removed.

I could go further into the subject on the importance of large, weekly water changes and may do it in a later post.

Thanks for the chat.

B
 
Hi Bradbury :)

I am all in favour of water changes but only once a week and at 25%. The reason for this is that Tap water can vary in levels of ammonia nitrite and nitrates depending on your supply.

We know that chlorine/chloramines in tap water is harmful to our beneficial bacteria. More and more Suppliers are now opting to use chloramines which is a mixture of chlorine and ammonia. Tap water conditioners and de-chlorinators eliminate the chlorine part in chloramines leaving the ammonia behind.

Doing 25% water changes ensures that we are not overwhelming our BB with increased levels of ammonia/nitrites/nitrates. In a fully cycled tank where ammonia/nitrites and nitrates are under control, it is not necessary to change large volumes of water. Small weekly water changes aid our BB.

Large frequent water changes are necessary in an aquarium that for whatever reason has high levels of toxins that are immediately detrimental to our fish. By doing this we can help our bacteria keep these levels down whilst sourcing the problem of increased ammonia/nitrite/nitrate. Having a heavily planted aquarium can also help with this so long as any dying plants are removed and decaying leaves are trimmed.
 
Water Changes

Hello again Cal...

We may be on the same page and certainly all tanks don't behave the same. What every water keeper should be after is chemistry stability. As water ages in the tank, it loses nutrients that are important to the fish and plants. By flushing a lot pure, treated tap water through the tank weekly, these minerals stay at high levels. The tank is an unflushed toilet, I'm certain you've heard this before. If you do a 25 percent change weekly you leave 75 percent of the toxic nitrogens in the water. If I change half the water weekly, I'm removing twice the toxins.

Put yourself in the fishes' place. If you were living in your own waste, how much water would you want replaced? I think I'd prefer the larger water change. I wouldn't care how much beneficial bacteria or how much filtration was supposedly keeping the tank a little bit cleaner, just give me the real, pure tap water and lots of it.

B
 
Hi matey

You are right. Not all aquariums are the same.

A 50% water change weekly for me personally would be ok as I have tested my tap water for fish harming toxins and they are minimal.

Some water supplies have very high levels of nitrates for example. Toxins in an aquarium such as ammonia and nitrite when tested will show as 0ppm. That is not to say there are none but probably that they are too little to register on the chosen test kit.

A cycled tank ideally should have no more than 40ppm of nitrates as prolonged exposure to anything higher can harm the inhabitants. Some tap waters already have levels as high as this so if you are adding tap water frequently you could potentially be adding nitrates. Although I agree that there are essential nutrients in tap water. I would disagree that all supplies are pure. I guess this is why a 25% Change is recommended by most as you cannot always guarantee the quality of your water supply.

Plants will happily consume these nitrates in a heavily planted tank along with carbon dioxide from the fish. Other plant beneficial nutrients such as potassium, magnesium and phosphorus can supplemented if required.

What I'm trying to say is that an established tank should be able to control toxin levels so long as the tank is not overstocked, over fed and with good plant maintenance. Adding a small clean up crew with a small boi-load will also help.

Personally, I would rather let my BB take care of the fish waste and my plants the nitrates. And aid them with small weekly water changes. In the main, what I am disagreeing on is your comment regarding 50% daily water changes are more effective than the biological and mechanical filtration.

I would like to point out that I am not a seasoned veteran in this hobby. I did a lot of research after I owned my first aquarium with disastrous consequences and the information I have gathered since has worked for me. As obviously your method works for you, I guess we can say that we are both doing a good job. My fish are doing brilliantly :)

Enjoyed your posts bud.
 
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