Fishless Cycle

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You did a perfect fishless cycle...even when you didn't know you were doing it, lol. Your fish will be very happy that you created such a healthy home for them. Oh, you know about not using the carbon filter cartridges you're supposed to replace monthly, right?
 
Well... This is how things went, I turned off everything, siphoned some water from the tank into a 5 gallon bucket, that I use only for the aquarium, to clean the pump's sponge, the sump's sponge, and the filter pad with aquarium water. After I finished cleaning that, I drained 80-90% of the water with a Python and then, poured dechlorinator to the 10 or 20% water left in the tank. I use Tetra brand dechlorinator, it says it removes chlorine, chloramines, and ammonia, measurement is one teaspoon every 10 gallons, my tank is 120 gal. so, I added about 13 or 14 teaspons, a few more than I had to, which I suppose it doesn't hurt. Finally, I started filling up the tank again with water and when I was almost done filling it... another unpleasant experience in this hobby, but it only makes me love the hobby more and more (although it very frustrating and discouraging at moments, but it was my own fault). What happened was that when I was almost done filling the tank, since I have internal overflows I don't know why, probably because I was tired, I didn't realize, it didn't look like it, but the water was already going from the overflows to the sump and, yes, guess what? Flood!!! My sump was full of water, so I removed the Python, removed some excess water from the sump and had to dry half of my living room (no carpet), I also had to remove everything from the cabinet, except the sump, dry it all out, dry the floor, move some furniture, dry the cabinet, my GF complaining. As I was cleaning, I started the pump, air stone and heater and after I was done doing all that I siphoned the remaining excess water from the sump and left it at the proper level, then it was time for testing and these were the readings (about an hour or two after the tank was filled with new water) Ammonia: 0.25 ppm, Nitrites 0.25 ppm, Nitrates 20 ppm, nitrates are very difficult to distinguish some colors on the color chart, I think it was 20 ppm but it could be 10 ppm, at times it looked like the color of 40 ppm but it was to orangish to be that color so, it was either 20 ppm 0r 10 ppm, leaning more towards 20 ppm. After testing I've added one tablespoon and one teaspoon of ammonia because it's been about 30 hours since the last time I added ammonia, and I obviously need to feed the bacteria while I don't have fish. Now, I will stop writting for a second and test for ammonia and nitrites before I go to bed and see where they stand right now, it's been about 35 mins. since I added ammonia. Okya, these are the readings: Ammonia about 3 ppm (did I add to much?), Nitrites 0.50 ppm. Are this readings logical? What about the ones I got before adding the ammonia? To my understanding, if the tank is cycled it should drop to 0 ammonia and 0 nitrites in about 10 hours from now, right? What about nitrates, are those going to be high tomorrow because I added ammonia a few minutes ago and it will do the nitrogen cycle and end up as more nitrates or it takes a while to build up? Should I do a 30% water change if nitrates are still at 20 ppm tomorrow? I really want my nitrates below 10 ppm. I just want to stay on the right track. Thanks!
 
Haha, thanks! I just saw your post about the carbon thing, what about it? I have 2 full units from Chemi-pure what I was waiting to get the fish to add it, I was going to place it between the sponge and the submersible return pump in the sump.
 
I couldn't resist to test for nitrites one more time before going to bed, lol. They are at 1.0 ppm now. Shouldn't it be staying at 0 ppm if the tank is cycled? or is that normal because I just added ammonia and it's doing its process? I guess my fish will produce less than 3-4ppm of ammonia in 12 hours. However, I don't know if it's normal for nitrites to go up a little bit in the immediate presence of ammonia and then it goes down to 0 fast enough so that it's not harmful for the fish or it should be 0 ppm ALL the time?
 
I couldn't resist to test for nitrites one more time before going to bed, lol. They are at 1.0 ppm now. Shouldn't it be staying at 0 ppm if the tank is cycled? or is that normal because I just added ammonia and it's doing its process? I guess my fish will produce less than 3-4ppm of ammonia in 12 hours. However, I don't know if it's normal for nitrites to go up a little bit in the immediate presence of ammonia and then it goes down to 0 fast enough so that it's not harmful for the fish or it should be 0 ppm ALL the time?

As long as they are staying at less than 5ppm you are just fine. They're exactly where they should be.
 
Right now, about 7 hours after adding the ammonia, Ammonia is at 2 ppm, Nitrites 5 ppm+ (API test is a very vivid purple color), Nitrates 40 ppm. It seems as if everything went back to the day before yesterday when I wasn't cycled :(, is this normal? I think there's something wrong. I should be getting 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites if my tank was really cycled, or I have to wait a few more hours?
 
I had something similar happen to me and I thought I had reverted in my cycle. What happens is that when you fully dose your tank up with ammonia you can actually watch the transition from ammonia to nitrItes to nitrAtes because it such a high level. As you said, fish will add a small constant ammonia supply instead of instantly dumping 4ppm in at once. As long as you can turn 3ppm ammonia to 0 ammo and 0 nitrItes within 24 hours , you're set to go.

I freaked out when it happened at the end of my cycle, but was informed it was normal to be able to track such high levels in they're transformation. I waited till my levels were at 0 and that my nitrAtes were low enough and I stocked. Since I've had fish, my ammo and nitrItes have not budged one iota. The ammo test is as yellow as can be and nitrItes are just a nice baby blue.
 
As for the carbon... I was talking about the carbon filled cartridges that come with virtually all HOB filters. These companies try to make money by selling these cartridges and telling you to replace the filter every month. Problem is, all your healthy little bacterias live in the filter and if you just pull it out, throw it away and put in a new one every month...you're just throwing away all your healthy bacteria and can cause a mini cycle. If you're just using carbon granules in a canister filter, it's not a problem, it's just normally unnecessary unless you're trying to remove meds or odor from the water.
 
Aaahhh okay! (Relief) :) I was already strating to freak out. Yes, yesterday when I tested for the first time nitrites were a nice baby blue and ammonia super yellow. I want those color back! Lol. Basically, please correct me if I'm wrong, what happens is that the process is not instant, with big loads of ammonia it takes a few hours the the bacterias to do the "conversions", I guess. What about nitrates? am I going to have to do another PWC water change (maybe 30%), if for example, I check in about 14 hours and ammonia/nitrite are 0 ppm, and Nitrates are higher than 20 ppm? Another question, should I add less ammonia the next time I feed the bacteria? Does more bacteria grow if I add around 4 ppm instead of 2 ppm? Finally, am I going to keep watching the transition until I add fish (almost sure the anser is "yes", but maybe I need to add less than 4 ppm of ammonia when ffeding the bacteria)? Thanks!
 
fddlss said:
Aaahhh okay! (Relief) :) I was already strating to freak out. Yes, yesterday when I tested for the first time nitrites were a nice baby blue and ammonia super yellow. I want those color back! Lol. Basically, please correct me if I'm wrong, what happens is that the process is not instant, with big loads of ammonia it takes a few hours the the bacterias to do the "conversions", I guess. What about nitrates? am I going to have to do another PWC water change (maybe 30%), if for example, I check in about 14 hours and ammonia/nitrite are 0 ppm, and Nitrates are higher than 20 ppm? Another question, should I add less ammonia the next time I feed the bacteria? Does more bacteria grow if I add around 4 ppm instead of 2 ppm? Finally, am I going to keep watching the transition until I add fish (almost sure the anser is "yes", but maybe I need to add less than 4 ppm of ammonia when ffeding the bacteria)? Thanks!

Yes, more ammonia makes more nitrIte that makes more nitrAtes. NitrAtes are only dangerous at high levels, so as long as they're remotely close to 20 you're good to go.
 
I recommend feeding the bacteria just enough for them to still have a food source, maybe 1ppm. That way you won't get a big buildup of nitrAtes before you add fish.

Remember too, since we found out your tap water has chloramines, you're already gonna have some in there after a pwc. I would suggest you test the tap to find out how much is in there. When you do pwc' s you'll be feeding them with just the new water. As long as you add your Prime, the ammonia levels are going to be a false positive since it's been rendered non toxic.
 
Also, a note about stocking... There's still some debate on this. Most articles say a tank cycled to handle 4ppm in 24 hours is ready to handle a full bio load of fish. Other people still say to add a few of them every other week. I tend to agree with the first argument, but I went with the middle ground. 4ppm is serious overkill and there is absolutely no way a fully stocked aquarium will put out that much waste in 24 hrs. On the other side, I believe that if you only throw 5 tetras into a newly cycled tank, theyre not going to put out enough waste and I worried about a bacteria die off since they aren't getting enough food.

I stocked my tank to around 50% capacity at first and my numbers haven't budged. So I'm actually heading out this weekend to pick up a few more. So, probably not a good idea to go to either extreme...just get a reasonable sized group of fish to put in at first. Good luck! I hope I've been helpful!
 
Problem is, all your healthy little bacterias live in the filter and if you just pull it out, throw it away and put in a new one every month...you're just throwing away all your healthy bacteria and can cause a mini cycle.

I designed (and half-built) a filter that I'm going to use on my 55-gal that allows you to change out any part of it when I need to, but leave the rest of untouched. This will allow me to remove some bacterial colonies, but not disturb the others. I hope to be finished with it soon. When I am, I'll post the build in the forum if anyone is interested.

I stocked my tank to around 50% capacity at first and my numbers haven't budged. So I'm actually heading out this weekend to pick up a few more. So, probably not a good idea to go to either extreme...just get a reasonable sized group of fish to put in at first. Good luck! I hope I've been helpful!

I think that it is a safe idea, just so long as you don't overdo it. Remember that while those fish have been in there the bioload has been building up.
 
You've been of great help! and everybody else, too! Thanks, again everyone. I just tested my tap water, right from the faucet without pouring any dechlorinator. These are the results:

Ammonia: 0.50 PPM
Nitrite: 0.00 or 0.25 PPM (it wasn't as soft as the sky blue on the color chart)
Nitrate: 0.00 PPM
pH: 7.6+ PPM
High Range pH: 8.4 PPM

pH is really alkaline, that's not a problem because I will stock the tank with African cichlids. On the other hand, I wonder if the dechlorinator is strong enough to dissolve the 0.25 ammonia that's on my tap water.

I didn't do anything else to the cycle yet, these are my next steps: I will test again and add about 1 PPM of ammonia around midnight, if the ammonia readings are 0. Hopefully, by then, ammonia and nitrites will be 0.00 PPM and I'm sure nitrates will be a little high. If that's the case, I will do a partial water change tomorrow during the day. I will still add ammonia but not 3.00-4.00 PPM like I have been adding, from now on I will add around 1.0 PPM as you suggested, until I get the fish. I also agree with the stocking suggestions, and that's what I will do. Do you agree with my next step? lol. Sorry to bombard you with questions! I hope that by adding 1 PPM of ammonia from now on I will not have to do another PWC until a few days after I add the first fish.
 
The ammo and nitrItes are nothing to worry about as long as you're using Prime or another dechlor. Prime detoxifies the ammo and nitrItes so they are no longer toxic to fish. Prime, however, does not REMOVE the ammo, it just detoxifies it...so it will still show up on your API kit as a false positive...still there, but harmless. Your bio-filter will take care of that amount quickly.

Anyone who's smart and caring enough to do a fishless cycle deserves all the help they request :)
 
Everything else sounds perfect. You really know what you're doing...I look forward to seeing you giving the same knowledge you have now to other members of this site in the future :)
 
Perfect! Thanks a lot! I'm looking forward to help anyone I can, share my little knowledge and try, all of us together, to make this hobby an even better hobby by educating people and continue learning from one another.
 
The ammo and nitrItes are nothing to worry about as long as you're using Prime or another dechlor. Prime detoxifies the ammo and nitrItes so they are no longer toxic to fish. Prime, however, does not REMOVE the ammo, it just detoxifies it...so it will still show up on your API kit as a false positive...still there, but harmless. Your bio-filter will take care of that amount quickly.

Anyone who's smart and caring enough to do a fishless cycle deserves all the help they request :)

Ditto. You look like you are right on target with the rest. Good luck!
 
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