General maintainance questions

[3Corsameal]

have brought a test kit to test my water, and it does

[acronym:73cc6b139b="Powerhead"]PH[/acronym:73cc6b139b]
[acronym:73cc6b139b="Carbonate Hardness"]KH[/acronym:73cc6b139b]/TAC
[acronym:73cc6b139b="General Hardness"]GH[/acronym:73cc6b139b]/TH
[acronym:73cc6b139b="Nitrite"]NO2[/acronym:73cc6b139b]
[acronym:73cc6b139b="Nitrate"]NO3[/acronym:73cc6b139b]

doesn't mean an awful lot to me, but i asked for something that tested ammonia and was sold this thing, called "eSHa Aqua Quick Test"

changed 20% of my water lastnight as the [acronym:73cc6b139b="Nitrite"]NO2[/acronym:73cc6b139b] and [acronym:73cc6b139b="Nitrate"]NO3[/acronym:73cc6b139b] were higher than it recommended.

any help with this? i need to know what each thing means.

[silvi-p]

hello corsa,
pheew.... where to start.... i don't know what fish you have, so recommendations are difficult. the measures are important for your fish as every fish has certain [acronym:f28c34cb3c="Measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions"]ph[/acronym:f28c34cb3c]/[acronym:f28c34cb3c="General Hardness"]gh[/acronym:f28c34cb3c]/[acronym:f28c34cb3c="Carbonate Hardness"]kh[/acronym:f28c34cb3c] levels where it feels ok. the bad news is that the test you have (a small stripe you hold into the water, right?) is not at all precise. and it doesn't measure ammonia itself at all

[acronym:f28c34cb3c="Nitrite"]no2[/acronym:f28c34cb3c] should always, always be 0, it is toxic in the smallest concentrations.
[acronym:f28c34cb3c="Nitrate"]no3[/acronym:f28c34cb3c] can be up to 10, some say 20. it's a nutricient for plants, so that "always 0" might cause plant growth problems. but it won't cause problems for the fish as long as it stays, (to be on the safe side) lower than 40.

[acronym:f28c34cb3c="Powerhead"]PH[/acronym:f28c34cb3c] measures acidity of the water. in freshwater tanks, you generally have levels of about 6-8. lower levels means more acid water, 8 is rather basic (is that the word?).

evidently, if you want to keep fish that are not comfortable with your tap water values, you have to treat your water.

most aquarists would get information about the fish they want keep in advance - [acronym:f28c34cb3c="Carbonate Hardness"]kh[/acronym:f28c34cb3c]/[acronym:f28c34cb3c="General Hardness"]gh[/acronym:f28c34cb3c]/[acronym:f28c34cb3c="Measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions"]ph[/acronym:f28c34cb3c] levels they like, what's the extreme etc. also, it is interesting for breeding purposes since the ranges of values tolerated might become smaller.

[acronym:f28c34cb3c="Nitrite"]no2[/acronym:f28c34cb3c] and [acronym:f28c34cb3c="Nitrate"]no3[/acronym:f28c34cb3c] levels are important to understand if your biological cycle works correctly. that is: fish and plant waste produce ammonia ([acronym:f28c34cb3c="Ammonia"]nh3[/acronym:f28c34cb3c]/[acronym:f28c34cb3c="Ammonium"]nh4[/acronym:f28c34cb3c]). then, one kind of bacteria eats away the [acronym:f28c34cb3c="Ammonia"]nh3[/acronym:f28c34cb3c]/4 and produces [acronym:f28c34cb3c="Nitrite"]no2[/acronym:f28c34cb3c] from it. another bacteria, building up its population only after the [acronym:f28c34cb3c="Nitrite"]no2[/acronym:f28c34cb3c] is PRESENT in the tank will eat away the [acronym:f28c34cb3c="Nitrite"]no2[/acronym:f28c34cb3c] and make [acronym:f28c34cb3c="Nitrate"]no3[/acronym:f28c34cb3c] out of it (that means, in that stage the fish, if present, will get problems, until the bacteria population is big enough to deal with all the [acronym:f28c34cb3c="Nitrite"]no2[/acronym:f28c34cb3c]!!). so [acronym:f28c34cb3c="Nitrate"]no3[/acronym:f28c34cb3c] after a while accumulates, since not all of it will be taken up by plants. so [acronym:f28c34cb3c="Nitrate"]no3[/acronym:f28c34cb3c] is kind of the end of the circle.

what also matters.... how long has your tank been running? you might be in the initial phase where the bacteria population starts to grow. [acronym:f28c34cb3c="Nitrite"]no2[/acronym:f28c34cb3c] is toxic=DEADLY to your fish. if your levels are too high, you can only try to get in extra (bought) bacteria, or filter mud from another aquarist, AND do lots of water changes to keep it down.

so.... more info, betters answers:
tank runs how long?
what fish in it? (latin names are easier for me - as english is not my first language)
what tap water do you have?

kind regards,
silvia

[silvi-p]

uuups -
i forgot [acronym:4d0ff85985="Carbonate Hardness"]kh[/acronym:4d0ff85985] and [acronym:4d0ff85985="General Hardness"]gh[/acronym:4d0ff85985].

these two values measure the hardness of your water. they're also important for washing clothes, more hardness needs more soap

hardness means the concentration of salts and minerals that are in the water. for example, calcium-rich water leaves a lot of white stains in kitchen and bathroom sinks. calcium and other, similar stuff determine the hardness.
[acronym:4d0ff85985="Carbonate Hardness"]KH[/acronym:4d0ff85985] and [acronym:4d0ff85985="General Hardness"]GH[/acronym:4d0ff85985] are closely related. [acronym:4d0ff85985="Carbonate Hardness"]KH[/acronym:4d0ff85985] is most of times a bit lower than [acronym:4d0ff85985="General Hardness"]GH[/acronym:4d0ff85985]. that's because it measures only a part of the mineral/salty stuff that is in the water. [acronym:4d0ff85985="General Hardness"]GH[/acronym:4d0ff85985] measures the totality. in freshwater tanks, you might find anything from [acronym:4d0ff85985="General Hardness"]gh[/acronym:4d0ff85985]/[acronym:4d0ff85985="Carbonate Hardness"]kh[/acronym:4d0ff85985] = 0 or close to it, to [acronym:4d0ff85985="General Hardness"]gh[/acronym:4d0ff85985]/[acronym:4d0ff85985="Carbonate Hardness"]kh[/acronym:4d0ff85985] =20-25, although these are the extremes that only a limited number of species need/want.

to give you examples:
the ever-present guppy can live with almost any hardness, as it is found in nature in environments that represent any hardness. i know people keeping them with [acronym:4d0ff85985="General Hardness"]gh[/acronym:4d0ff85985] 6 [acronym:4d0ff85985="Carbonate Hardness"]kh[/acronym:4d0ff85985] 4, i myself have them at [acronym:4d0ff85985="General Hardness"]gh[/acronym:4d0ff85985] 15 [acronym:4d0ff85985="Carbonate Hardness"]kh[/acronym:4d0ff85985] 12. both are doing absolutely fine.

neons, especially red neons, are more demanding. they should be kept at a maximum of [acronym:4d0ff85985="General Hardness"]gh[/acronym:4d0ff85985] 10, rather lower.

most fish have a hard time dealing with extreme water values as their whole metabolism works with a "default" mineral concentration, and it's not possible for them to simply "adjust" to other hardness values. if they're able to deal with different hardnesses, it's because they have been present in nature in those kind of water for a longer time.
many dealers would say - yeah those were bred in this and that water (e.g. neons in hard water), they're accustomed to it. but if you think about it, a fish evolved over so and so many thousand years to get used to its natural environment. just because you breed it in another water for, say, a year, doesn't mean it will feel ok (metabolism).

[acronym:4d0ff85985="General Hardness"]gh[/acronym:4d0ff85985] and [acronym:4d0ff85985="Carbonate Hardness"]kh[/acronym:4d0ff85985] are also closely related to [acronym:4d0ff85985="Measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions"]ph[/acronym:4d0ff85985]. with lower [acronym:4d0ff85985="General Hardness"]gh[/acronym:4d0ff85985] and [acronym:4d0ff85985="Carbonate Hardness"]kh[/acronym:4d0ff85985], you normally have a lower [acronym:4d0ff85985="Measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions"]ph[/acronym:4d0ff85985] as well (water is rather acidic), vice versa the same: high [acronym:4d0ff85985="General Hardness"]gh[/acronym:4d0ff85985]/[acronym:4d0ff85985="Carbonate Hardness"]kh[/acronym:4d0ff85985] means [acronym:4d0ff85985="Measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions"]ph[/acronym:4d0ff85985] rises too.

as I don't know which of this stuff you already know, I'll stop here....

hope this helped you already.

silvia

[Alivymar]

Awesome post silvia! Have a few kudos for working so hard

Just a coupla clarifiers for you 3Corsa:

[acronym:425c7849ad="Ammonia"]NH3[/acronym:425c7849ad] = Ammonia
[acronym:425c7849ad="Nitrite"]NO2[/acronym:425c7849ad] = Nitrite
[acronym:425c7849ad="Nitrate"]NO3[/acronym:425c7849ad] = Nitrate

Ammonia is toxic to fish. Burns them, especially the gills and the fish can't breathe. Nitrites are toxic to fish. Competes with oxygen (kinda like carbon monoxide and humans) and the fish suffocate. Both stress the fish as well, which makes them more susceptible to disease. You don't want either in the tank water if you can avoid it, hence why we are always recommending water changes. Nitrates aren't deadly, but aren't healthy either once levels get over 40ppm or so. Again, water changes, especially cause nitrifying bacteria don't eat it and you'll need to dilute it/get it out of the tank.

You may want to look into getting the Aquarium Pharmaceutical liquid/vial ammonia tests; liquid tests are more accurate then the dipstick ones (if yours is a dipstick).

[dralarms]

Alivymar,

Might I suggest a place to get the AP test for 11.99? My [acronym:27a86b2f77="Local Fish Store"]lfs[/acronym:27a86b2f77] wanted 34.99. bigalsonline.com has it for 11.99.

Just a thought

[Allivymar]

Oh thats some price diff justmy2cents! Well worth it [acronym:5049298b0e="In My Honest Opinion"]IMHO[/acronym:5049298b0e]. ([acronym:5049298b0e="By the way"]btw[/acronym:5049298b0e], Alivymar is me....its my old alt nick and one that usually shows up first thing in the morning when I misstype my nick [acronym:5049298b0e="Laughing out loud"]LOL[/acronym:5049298b0e])

[dralarms]

Yes, I just received 2 of them. They are the freshwater "master" kit. 6 tests and 4 test tubes. it was only 5.95 for shipping to Tennessee

[Terry]

Hiya 3corsameal.

Firstly what part of Essex are you in.

Right here goes...... The [acronym:0fff05280b="Measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions"]ph[/acronym:0fff05280b] scale measures the strength of acidity or alkalinity on a range of 0 (very acidic) to 14 (very alkaline) and is logarithmic; that is, a [acronym:0fff05280b="Measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions"]ph[/acronym:0fff05280b] of 8 is ten times and a [acronym:0fff05280b="Measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions"]ph[/acronym:0fff05280b] of 9 a hundred times more alkaline than a [acronym:0fff05280b="Measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions"]ph[/acronym:0fff05280b] of 7 (the neutral point). Water supplies vary from region to region, in your region Essex the water is very hard.

Then you have the hardness which is due to dissolved salt, usually of calcium and magnesium, and is one of two types -- general hardness [acronym:0fff05280b="General Hardness"]GH[/acronym:0fff05280b] and temporary/carbonate [acronym:0fff05280b="Carbonate Hardness"]KH[/acronym:0fff05280b].

Why test your water

[acronym:0fff05280b="Ammonia"]NH3[/acronym:0fff05280b]/[acronym:0fff05280b="Ammonium"]NH4[/acronym:0fff05280b]. Ammonium/Ammonia.

Ammonium/Ammonia Organic nitrogen containing material such as fish waste, uneaten food and decomposing plants are broken down in differant phases by specialized microorganisms. Total ammonia is degraded to nitrite, the most harmful nitrogen containing material in your aquarium is ammonia [acronym:0fff05280b="Ammonia"]NH3[/acronym:0fff05280b]. At a [acronym:0fff05280b="Measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions"]ph[/acronym:0fff05280b] value above 7, increasing amounts of toxic ammonia [acronym:0fff05280b="Ammonia"]NH3[/acronym:0fff05280b] will appear. At a [acronym:0fff05280b="Measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions"]ph[/acronym:0fff05280b] value below 7 ammonia is present as the non-toxic ammonium [acronym:0fff05280b="Ammonium"]NH4[/acronym:0fff05280b]. Total ammonia [acronym:0fff05280b="Ammonia"]NH3[/acronym:0fff05280b]/[acronym:0fff05280b="Ammonium"]NH4[/acronym:0fff05280b] in concentrations greater than 0.25mg/l and if present for extended periods, is harmful to your fish.

[acronym:0fff05280b="Nitrite"]NO2[/acronym:0fff05280b]. Nitrites.

You ammonia will be broken down and that will turn into nitrites [acronym:0fff05280b="Nitrite"]NO2[/acronym:0fff05280b],high nitrite levels are very toxic to fish. Ideally, the nitrite levels should be between 0 and 0.3mg/l. A nitrite reading of 0.8mg/l should not be exceeded. Nitrite in concentrations greater than 1.6mg/l and if present for extended periods is harmful to your fish. Weekly checks should of the aquarium water are necessary so that a safe nitrite level is not exceeded.

[acronym:0fff05280b="Nitrate"]NO3[/acronym:0fff05280b]. Nitrates.

The measured level of nitrate indicates when and how much water needs to be changed. Organic nitrogen containing material such as fish waste, uneaten food and decomposing plants are broken down in differant stages.
Total ammonia is degraded to nitrite and then finally to nitrate, Nitrate is used as a nutrient by plants, however in concentrations greater than 50mg/l, it is increasingly harmful to your fish and it also promotes unsightly algae growth.

Your Esha quick test is what it says, just a quick test. To get a more accurate test i would go for the liquid tests which you can get for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, [acronym:0fff05280b="Measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions"]ph[/acronym:0fff05280b], [acronym:0fff05280b="General Hardness"]gh[/acronym:0fff05280b],[acronym:0fff05280b="Carbonate Hardness"]kh[/acronym:0fff05280b]. or you can get a multi test kit.

If you need any more help just ask.
[acronym:0fff05280b="Hope this helps (or) Happy to help"]HTH[/acronym:0fff05280b]

[3Corsameal]

Thanks for all the help people.

So basically my test doesn't include ammonia, which is the only thing i asked for

Terry - I am in Thaxted, which is near GT dunmow, Saffron Walden, about 30mins from Harlow.

When i just checked my water i got:
(not too accurate due to quick test crap)


[acronym:9ece9bf9f3="Nitrate"]NO3[/acronym:9ece9bf9f3] = about 15mg/l
[acronym:9ece9bf9f3="Nitrite"]NO2[/acronym:9ece9bf9f3] = 3mg/l (confused about this one) kit doesn't show any 0.3 etc
[acronym:9ece9bf9f3="Powerhead"]PH[/acronym:9ece9bf9f3] = about 7

i've got a water treatment addictive and a bio booster, both recommended by fs.

Where do u go Terry, to get fish and supplies etc?

i been going to a place called T&T aquarium in duddenhoe end, they have a website too.

[Allivymar]

*giggles*

I think Terry goes to work 3Corsa; he owns a [acronym:987cad9012="Local Fish Store"]lfs[/acronym:987cad9012]. Good dude to hook up with, especially since you're not too far away! (is T&T aquarium your place Terry? Would be too funny if it was).

Also, I'd suggest a water change (20-30%) to dilute the nitrite ([acronym:987cad9012="Nitrite"]NO2[/acronym:987cad9012]) levels. A little salt (if your fish can handle salt) will also be a good thing as its THE treatment for nitrite poisoning; the chloride ions compete with the nitrite and prevent the nitrite from getting into the bloodstream. I noticed one of my neon tetras that I have in QT was hiding yesterday. Tested the water, and found small levels of nitrites. I did a 20% water change, added some salt and the lil guy is swiming with his buddies again today