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Old 01-02-2006, 09:09 PM   #11
Wizzard~Of~Ozz
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It's not hard to do, you put the rad inline with the output of your filter, or for option 2, you have the filter output a bit higher then your tank in a [acronym:274621dd46="Plastic pipe"]PVC[/acronym:274621dd46] Y pipe and use a fan to blow down the opposite leg of the Y, but both ways are too inconsistant and the latter could cause all kinds of new problems (and benefits since the water would be very well oxygenated).

I didn't want to get into peltiers and such, they generate too much heat and consume too much electricity (200w or more), plus you'ld need a temperature controller (an [acronym:274621dd46="Activated Carbon"]AC[/acronym:274621dd46] is cheaper)..

I gave up modding my computers when they became prefabs, I recently removed my blue cold cathode (lightning) and put it in the tank canopy I made, looks like moonlight twinkling on the surface of the water at night, and it was a lot cheaper then a single 3/4w moonlight (*cough* ripoff *cough*).

similar to this one.. fish don't even notice that I can see them, and continue about their normal nocturnal activities.
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Old 01-02-2006, 11:19 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7Enigma
For the fire hazard, I don't plan on keeping the lights on the tank when I'm at work,
But that will simply mess-up proper, natural photoperiods for your fish and/or plants.
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Old 01-03-2006, 01:00 AM   #13
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Agreed. If you fear a fire hazard when you're not around then it doesn't sound like the correct set up to be using.
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Old 01-03-2006, 11:04 AM   #14
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A simple 4" fan (or even smaller in your case) blowing across the water will easily cool the tank in the summer. I run one on my [acronym:3d8ef8debf="Saltwater"]SW[/acronym:3d8ef8debf] tank on a timer, on 2 hours, off an hour. Drops my temp from 86 to 78, and isn't a permanent fixture either.
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Old 01-03-2006, 05:06 PM   #15
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Do you think that would apply for open tops and blowing across the water in the tank itself?
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