Help after testing needed!

[Floyd R Turbo]

If you're red/green colorblind, that would be a big problem, since the API test is shades of yellow through red, and orange is right in the middle. If you're really worried about it, you might want to get a digital meter tester, I think Hanna makes one for Nitrate now.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Hit 'reply' too fast again....

You water conditioner should only be chlorine/chloramine remover, such as Prime or something like that. There shouldn't be any pH buffers, that to me says that it's a water conditioner and not a chlorine remover. You might want to check that.

 

[FwuffyTheBunny]

I have VERY little algae, and that was one of my concerns. Now I have a LITTLE growth of green, that's good, correct?

Yes, I am using a water conditioner. It is the major brand in my locale. It is to get rid of chlorine and chloramine. It also states that is has pH buffers and helps boost the slime coating on fish. As well as help stress.

Problem? Should I look for a stricter product? As in just to kill chlorine and chloramine?

 

[mudraker]

Its still just algae, only green this time. Not good or bad.

If your dechlorinator claims to do all that, it could very well be wreacking havoc with your PH.

Did you test your tap Ph vs. aquarium Ph yet? If not, you really need to.

 

[somal]

Thanks guys! I'll keep doing the PWC's everyday then, and test every few until I get in the safe zone.

I think my test readings might be out a bit, as I am slightly colorblind. I've been trying my best. And that's why I got a pet store test done as well.

Now, the PWC's seem to be bringing down the Nitrate, but there is still almost no alkalinity rise in my water. The water is still staying very acidic.

The water conditioner I use says in contains a pH buffer. Should I be using it sparingly, or a little more freely? Will it help at all? Or just complicate things more. I have only ever added conditioner when adding new tap water, as it instructs. But if I add some to my aquarium water will that do anything?

Sorry for all this. I am an aquarium noob, and am just trying to get all the information I need to be able to maintain a healthy aquarium

PS. I took a close look at the black algae and it seems like there is some new fuzzy GREEN algae growing overtop of it, and beside. Good sign!? I hope!

PSS. I keep my lights on around 8 hours a day. 3pm - 11pm usually.
It might vary a few hours here and there, as I'm not perfect haha.

Maybe I should invest in a timer. Recommendations on a good multi-control timer? So I can control the lights, and eventually some moonlights.

I have the same problem, if i was you id take a picture of them with the test once its done reading right next to the colors, and have fam/friends take a look

 

[FwuffyTheBunny]

Ok, so I'm frustrated.

I went to the biggest aquarium store within a 2 hour drive from me, which happens to be quite reputable. Anyways, I looked for a product that just kills chlorine and chloramine, and was unsuccessful. All of those products all include a pH buffer, and something that helps fishes slime coating. SOME even have more junk in them! Some have "Beneficial Bacteria" as well.

What the heck do I buy!? Here is the franchises online store link:
Aquarium Supplies, Cheap Dog Supplies, Fish Supplies, Best Cat Toys

 

[mudraker]

Did you test your tap Ph vs. aquarium Ph yet? If not, you really need to.

 

[FwuffyTheBunny]

Ok, I tested my tap water. Results came out strange.

Nitrate - 0
Nitrite - 0
Hardness - 75
Chlorine - 0.2
Alkalinity - 120
pH - 7.2

What the heck is going on!?

 

[mudraker]

Have you added anything new to your tank lately, like driftwood, rocks, etc?

New driftwood will leach tannins that contain acid and will cause a ph drop. Some kinds of rocks and do the same. Or it could be that conditioner/dechlorinator messing with your ph.

In a healthy aquarium setup w/o fertz or other additives, your ph should closely mirror your tap water.

I'm glad you did the comparisson test.

Keep up with the water changes and think of anything new you might have added to the aquarium that may leach acid or tannins and thus lowering your ph.

As for the additives, Amquel is a good dechlorinator. I'm lucky and don't have to use any.

 

[mudraker]

Also, good for you for keeping up all this to make a healthier environment for your fish.

 

[FwuffyTheBunny]

Ok, I got some running around to do today, so hopefully my fish can make it without a PWC today. I'll go buy that dechlorinator and hopefully that will make a difference.

I'm also, just for curiosity sake, going to do a PWC, but in the bucket of tap water, add the conditioner I am currently using, and do a test of THAT water. And compare to just straight tap tests. See if that pH buffer really is to blame.

 

[mudraker]

Excellent idea.

You may want to let the bucket water rest a few hours before testing.

I'm assuming the answer is no when I asked about new rocks, driftwood etc.

 

[FwuffyTheBunny]

I have added new artificial plants a while ago but I don't think they're to blame. they are the same brand, and style of plants that I already had in my tank. Just more of them, to fill it up.

I've got the bucket O' tap water settling. I'm going to leave it overnight, just to be certain.

I'll post results in the morning.

 

[mudraker]

We'll see what happens...

 

[FwuffyTheBunny]

Ok, sorry I took so long, but here are the results for my tap water treated with my current "all in one" water conditioner.

Nitrate - 0
Nitrite - 0
Hardness - 120
Chlorine - 0
Alkalinity - 110
pH - 7.0

So based on these results, my tap water, with my current conditioner, is fine!

Maybe everything was okay all along, and I just really needed to "catch up" on my PWC's?

I guess I'll continue doing my 50% PWC's everyday until my levels get in the safe zone. Unless anyone suggests something better.

Thanks for everyones help thus far, I've already learned so much just from this predicament.

 

[mudraker]

Yeah, experience is quite a teacher.

Definately keep up with those water changes.

Still wonder why ph was so low though.

You do get brownie points for sticking with it, thats for sure

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

I'm guessing that the pH was low because of infrequent water changes. In my tanks, the pH is around 7.8-8.0 after a PWC, but after a week it drops down to around 7.2. On occasion, I have gone 2 weeks between PWCs and the pH drops down to the 6.4-6.6 range. One time it was as low as 6.2. So weekly PWCs are a definite must for a multitude of reasons in FW tanks, unless you have another system to reduce Nitrates and maintain stable pH.