How to add a 2nd filter?

[Noviceafter2yea]

I have a 20 gallon tank and have been trying to stabilize the ammonia level.

My city does add something to the water that results in toxic ammonia. I pretreat my change water with prime and have it sit overnight (to make sure it is the same temperature because I cannot tell when straight from the tap).

Currently it has a top fin brand 20 filter. I can't say anymore about it because it came with the tank and is made exclusively for petsmart.

Following the advice of many people on this forum, I ordered a second filter. It is an Aqueon50. Many people suggested I run both at the same time.

Is there anything I need to do to add the additional filter in terms of bacteria?

I also ordered and received a "bad" ammonia detector that supposedly differentiates between the harmful and nontoxic ammonia since using prime doesn't alter readings even if it detoxifies the ammonia.

Yesterday, the ammonia reading from the liquid test was 1.0ppm (with prime). 4 hours after "installing" the new detector, the bad ammonia detector has me in the "alert" category which means it is in the .05ppm. The next level up is the "alarm" category which means it is in the .2ppm range.

While I still need to bring it down to the safe zone (water change and more prime?), this is good, right?

 

[BigRedsReefs10]

Just put it on and plug it in . You may want to look into an ro/di unit if this doesn't work. Ro/di is very common in reef aquariums, and they completely purify the water

 

[54seaweed]

try adding ammo carb in a sock and place in your filter

 

[Noviceafter2yea]

try adding ammo carb in a sock and place in your filter

Into the new or old filter?

 

[54seaweed]

either or it don't matter or even both

 

[jglover]

My city does add something to the water that results in toxic ammonia. I pretreat my change water with prime and have it sit overnight (to make sure it is the same temperature because I cannot tell when straight from the tap).

Yesterday, the ammonia reading from the liquid test was 1.0ppm (with prime). 4 hours after "installing" the new detector, the bad ammonia detector has me in the "alert" category which means it is in the .05ppm. The next level up is the "alarm" category which means it is in the .2ppm range.

While I still need to bring it down to the safe zone (water change and more prime?), this is good, right?

There is really nothing the city would be adding that would cause high levels of ammonia in your tap water. Likley the traces of ammonia would be showing up if the city uses chloramines to treat the water as opposed to chlorine. Typically, cities will treat the water by introducing chlorine and ammonia into the water to form chloramine to disinfect the water. However, the standards are quite low, the maximum concentration levels for residual chlorine is 2 ppm and 4 ppm for chloramine. The available concentration of free ammonia in tap will be even less than this as the bulk of the chloramines will oxidize out in the disinfection process. So if you are treating with Prime, you should easily be able to neutralize this prior to adding the water to your tank.

I've done water quality analysis for many years and have never seen any significant amounts of free ammonia in drinking water as it is highly regulated at both the state and federal levels. Larger jurisdictions also regulated it at county and city levels as well.

Also keep in mind if you are using an API kit, the ammonia test is not specific for ammonia, the actual test is total ammonia-nitrogen. The ammonia-nitrogen test measures the total amount of ammonia plus ammonium compounds present in the tank, so it is not giving a true, free ammonia number. The Seachem Ammonia Alert uses a gas exchanges technology sensor, specific to free ammonia and not ammonium. so it will show the nitrogen but your Ammonia Alert is only showing a small amount of free ammonia, about 5% of the total. At those levels, Prime will easily treat the ammonia and render it safe for your fish.

As for the second filter, just plug it in and let it run. Be careful though as I believe the Aqueon 50 do not have an adjustable flow rate, so you may have quite the current in a 20 gallon tank. You may be better of with a smaller Aqueon, or better yet, get an Aquaclear/Fluval instead, as they have adjustable flow rates.

 

[Noviceafter2yea]

There is really nothing the city would be adding that would cause high levels of ammonia in your tap water. Likley the traces of ammonia would be showing up if the city uses chloramines to treat the water as opposed to chlorine. Typically, cities will treat the water by introducing chlorine and ammonia into the water to form chloramine to disinfect the water. However, the standards are quite low, the maximum concentration levels for residual chlorine is 2 ppm and 4 ppm for chloramine. The available concentration of free ammonia in tap will be even less than this as the bulk of the chloramines will oxidize out in the disinfection process. So if you are treating with Prime, you should easily be able to neutralize this prior to adding the water to your tank.

I've done water quality analysis for many years and have never seen any significant amounts of free ammonia in drinking water as it is highly regulated at both the state and federal levels. Larger jurisdictions also regulated it at county and city levels as well.

Also keep in mind if you are using an API kit, the ammonia test is not specific for ammonia, the actual test is total ammonia-nitrogen. The ammonia-nitrogen test measures the total amount of ammonia plus ammonium compounds present in the tank, so it is not giving a true, free ammonia number. The Seachem Ammonia Alert uses a gas exchanges technology sensor, specific to free ammonia and not ammonium. so it will show the nitrogen but your Ammonia Alert is only showing a small amount of free ammonia, about 5% of the total. At those levels, Prime will easily treat the ammonia and render it safe for your fish.

As for the second filter, just plug it in and let it run. Be careful though as I believe the Aqueon 50 do not have an adjustable flow rate, so you may have quite the current in a 20 gallon tank. You may be better of with a smaller Aqueon, or better yet, get an Aquaclear/Fluval instead, as they have adjustable flow rates.

The picture is from the tap I think the darker one was tap water that I let sit over night and the lighter one was straight from the tap.

I found this on the Los Angeles department of water and power web page - is this why my tap water has positive ammonia results?


Q: Do I need to treat the water before I use it for my fish?
A: Yes. Your tap water contains disinfectants for your protection, but these disinfectants can kill fish. The water can contain either chlorine or chloramine. Both disinfectants can be neutralized by adding the appropriate chemicals which are available at most pet stores. Granular activated carbon (GAC) water filters will effectively remove both chlorine and chloramine.

Most fish, particularly tropical fish and koi, are also sensitive to rapid changes in the temperature or pH of the water - even small changes. If you are going to change the water in an aquarium or pond, or add a significant amount of new water, consult an experienced fish care expert for tips on how to make changes
You may be concerned that water harmful to fish might not be safe for you to drink. Don’t worry. Humans and fish use water in very different ways. When we drink water, the chlorine or chloramine is neutralized by our digestive system before it enters our bloodstream. When fish "breathe" water, any chlorine or chloramine present enters their bloodstream directly. This interferes with the fish's ability to take oxygen from the water and can cause the fish to suffocate.

 

[Noviceafter2yea]

The Aqueon 50

As for the second filter, just plug it in and let it run. Be careful though as I believe the Aqueon 50 do not have an adjustable flow rate, so you may have quite the current in a 20 gallon tank. You may be better of with a smaller Aqueon, or better yet, get an Aquaclear/Fluval instead, as they have adjustable flow rates.

Darn. I didn't realize that. Should I just use the Aqueon and ditch the top fin?

 

[jglover]

No, run the two side by side. You have to let the new filter populate with bacteria from your old filter first.

 

[Crazyhermitcrab]

No, run the two side by side. You have to let the new filter populate with bacteria from your old filter first.

1+

Agreed!

 

[Noviceafter2yea]

No, run the two side by side. You have to let the new filter populate with bacteria from your old filter first.

What should I do if it is too powerful? Should I put the old media into the new filter?

 

[Crazyhermitcrab]

It wont be too powerful. IF it is, use a water bottle to ajjust the outflow, and a intaketube to adjust intake.