How to get rid if ick?!

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differenter2000

Aquarium Advice Regular
Joined
Oct 18, 2015
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So about a week ago my fish were showing signs of ick (white spots on fins) so I raised the temperature, added a bit of salt and treated them with ick medication and today I noticed one of my fish still has white spots on his fins... He seems to be the only one in the tank with it and he seems healthy (eating, very active and is showing good colour) could this be anything but ick? And what can I do? It seems to move when he swims. The filter makes allot of bubbles so could it just be bubbles stuck to him? Am I just overreacting?
 
Ick is quite distinctive and is best described as looking like white salt crystals on the skin. They don't move independently of the skin. They also cannot be killed at this stage. Only when the cyst bursts and the young parasites, that have been multiplying, are free swimming that medication can do its work. That is why medicating until all the cysts have gone does not cure Ick, the treatment needs be continued for up to two weeks.
Having said that, I have had Ick twice, my own fault for not quarantining new fish, and I only used heat and good tank maintenance to cure it. Raising the heat to about 82f will speed up the cycle of the Ick to suck an extent that the new parasites die before reaching a new host. I believe 85f stops the Ick dead in its tracks but your fish and plants could also suffer badly.
At 80-82f, with daily water changes paying particular attention to the gravel, Ick can be beaten. At higher temperatures oxygen levels tend to fall so extra surface agitation is essential. I raise my filter outlet so it skims the water surface. Dropping the water level an inch or two will work if your filter outlet is at a fixed height.
Losses are sometimes caused by the infestation of Ick on the gills, which are not visible, so there are no guarantees of ridding Ick with no losses of fish.
I would need to have 2 clear weeks without any sign of Ick to believe that it is beaten. You had the breakout about a week ago so you are right to still be vigilant.
Hope that's been of some help and not sent you into the depths of despair. ?


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Ick is quite distinctive and is best described as looking like white salt crystals on the skin. They don't move independently of the skin. They also cannot be killed at this stage. Only when the cyst bursts and the young parasites, that have been multiplying, are free swimming that medication can do its work. That is why medicating until all the cysts have gone does not cure Ick, the treatment needs be continued for up to two weeks.
Having said that, I have had Ick twice, my own fault for not quarantining new fish, and I only used heat and good tank maintenance to cure it. Raising the heat to about 82f will speed up the cycle of the Ick to suck an extent that the new parasites die before reaching a new host. I believe 85f stops the Ick dead in its tracks but your fish and plants could also suffer badly.
At 80-82f, with daily water changes paying particular attention to the gravel, Ick can be beaten. At higher temperatures oxygen levels tend to fall so extra surface agitation is essential. I raise my filter outlet so it skims the water surface. Dropping the water level an inch or two will work if your filter outlet is at a fixed height.
Losses are sometimes caused by the infestation of Ick on the gills, which are not visible, so there are no guarantees of ridding Ick with no losses of fish.
I would need to have 2 clear weeks without any sign of Ick to believe that it is beaten. You had the breakout about a week ago so you are right to still be vigilant.
Hope that's been of some help and not sent you into the depths of despair. ?


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Okay thanks so much for your information. I haven't had any losses yet but I just turned up the heat and I have a bubbler that I'll be putting in the tank of do you think my filter will be enough? It's a 110 gallon filter in a 75 gallon tank. And how much of a water change should I do? 50%?
 
It's really hard to keep the heat in my tank, I'm in Canada and my aquarium is right by the wall (I have no where else to put it) so when it gets cold outside by fish definitely feel it. I've put some blankets between the tank and wall, so hopefully that helps.
 
It's really hard to keep the heat in my tank, I'm in Canada and my aquarium is right by the wall (I have no where else to put it) so when it gets cold outside by fish definitely feel it. I've put some blankets between the tank and wall, so hopefully that helps.


That's quite a large tank, how many heaters have you got in there. I would have thought two 300w would be minimum needed. Fluctuating temperature weakens the fish and makes then easier prey for the fish.
I presume you mean 110 gallon per hour filter. I aim to cycle the water a minimum of 5 times an hour so on that basis I would think your tank is a little under filtered unless your stocking levels are low, mine are very high.
As for water changes, with Ick it's not the amount of water changed but more about the frequency and how you change the water. Small daily water changes, 10% or so, concentrating on the substrate is best.
As I said before, Ick isn't the end of the world but it does need to be conquered and water quality and stable parameters will help..


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That's quite a large tank, how many heaters have you got in there. I would have thought two 300w would be minimum needed. Fluctuating temperature weakens the fish and makes then easier prey for the fish.
I presume you mean 110 gallon per hour filter. I aim to cycle the water a minimum of 5 times an hour so on that basis I would think your tank is a little under filtered unless your stocking levels are low, mine are very high.
As for water changes, with Ick it's not the amount of water changed but more about the frequency and how you change the water. Small daily water changes, 10% or so, concentrating on the substrate is best.
As I said before, Ick isn't the end of the world but it does need to be conquered and water quality and stable parameters will help..


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Yeah I only have one 200watt heater and I'm not aloud to get another because I don't pay the electricity bill and on the box it says my filter filters 500 gallons an hour but it's meant for a 110 gallon tank.
 
Yeah I only have one 200watt heater and I'm not aloud to get another because I don't pay the electricity bill and on the box it says my filter filters 500 gallons an hour but it's meant for a 110 gallon tank.


Your filter sounds good for your tank, plenty of turnover.
Your heater is a bit on the weak side. Having a lower wattage heater doesn't necessarily mean it's costing less to heat the tank because it is on for a lot longer than, say, 2 x 300w heaters. The energy used to maintain a tank temperature is the same no matter what wattage heaters you have but if they are to small then they will be working very hard and the life of the heater could well be reduced.
You say that you try to insulate the tank from the wall with blankets so I'm assuming that the back glass is either painted or has a picture on it. A better option would be a sheet of polystyrene, half inch would do. If the room gets particularly cold at night then sheets of polystyrene could be put on the sides and front glass when you go to bed. It seems a bit extreme but if your room temp drops very far below your tank temp then the heaters will be working overtime and the electric bill will be higher. Could you not get a second heater and improve the lagging of the tank to conserve heat at night, combined, this could even bring down the overall amount of electricity used.


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Your filter sounds good for your tank, plenty of turnover.
Your heater is a bit on the weak side. Having a lower wattage heater doesn't necessarily mean it's costing less to heat the tank because it is on for a lot longer than, say, 2 x 300w heaters. The energy used to maintain a tank temperature is the same no matter what wattage heaters you have but if they are to small then they will be working very hard and the life of the heater could well be reduced.
You say that you try to insulate the tank from the wall with blankets so I'm assuming that the back glass is either painted or has a picture on it. A better option would be a sheet of polystyrene, half inch would do. If the room gets particularly cold at night then sheets of polystyrene could be put on the sides and front glass when you go to bed. It seems a bit extreme but if your room temp drops very far below your tank temp then the heaters will be working overtime and the electric bill will be higher. Could you not get a second heater and improve the lagging of the tank to conserve heat at night, combined, this could even bring down the overall amount of electricity used.


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I'll try the polystyrene for now. Thanks!!
 
I second this. Turn off the filter. Treat according to back of med. Water changes daily with daily med dosing. I think it's for like 4-5 days.


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Okay thanks. Can't I just take the carbon out and keep the filter on for oxygen? I'll try dosing again.
 
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