If you can't do a water change ...

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There's also usually a number of professional aquarium services in the area. It's probably not the most economic option, but for a one-time thing it might not be too horrible.



Hope you feel better soon.
 
Hmmm,


EasyBalance provides an invaluable safety net for the time challenged hobbyist. Nitraban adds further stability to aquariums by helping natural bacteria complete the nitrogen cycle. These white, biodegradable granules settle into the gravel where they nourish beneficial de-nitrification bacteria that convert nitrate to harmless nitrogen gas. When used on a weekly basis, EasyBalance will help keep your fish healthy while making your job easier. The water is kept biologically healthy for up to 6 months, extending time between water changes. It's a comprehensive benefits package for both you and your fish alike.
Other Features & Benefits:

  • Carbonate Hardness Additive – The appropriate amount of carbonate hardness is added to the aquarium water compensating for KH losses, which occur as a result of nitrification.
  • pH Stabilization – Stabilizes the pH value on a sufficiently high level, preventing a drop to biologically harmful levels (pH crash) and produces a certain amount of CO2 preventing excessive pH values.
  • Phosphate Removing Effect – In a standard aquarium (30gal) the phosphate concentration is reduced to zero during most of the 6-month period.
  • New Feature: Nitrate Reduction with Nitraban – Serves as a nutrient for denitrifying bacteria that consume the oxygen releasing nitrogen from the aquarium. On average the nitrate concentration will drop below 40mg/l.
  • Other Features Include – Production of Carbon Dioxide, the addition of trace elements and a replenishment of vitamin B.
I'm a little skeptical of the claims for the product and every single one of the "issues" it solves are easily handled by regular water changes and/or a nicely planted tank.
If you are using it on a regular basis with your water changes, you are wasting your money.
and what are those "white granules", is it like using sulphur or bio-plastics in a saltwater setup to feed the anaerobic bacteria? I'm going to assume it is some form of bio-plastic.

If it does reduce nitrate and help buffer the water, than I can see it's usefulness in some situations/applications, but for general regular use it seems pointless.


I did read one review that cautioned that it will bring your ph to 7 and the reviewer almost killed her African cichlids by using it, so bear that in mind as well.
 
+1 on the automatic water changer (Python) suggestion. Even when I was laid up for 2 weeks with Bronchitis, I was able to keep up on water changes because all I had to do was hook up a hose to the shower, switch it on for suction, dose the tank, match water temp, swap to pump mode, then turn off when done. No lugging buckets around, you can sit in a chair and relax in between the brief moments you have to get up to swap the water direction. If you have someone there with you, this is a simple enough job that you can even dictate to them what to do while lying down/sitting and overseeing.
 
You can dose up to 5x normal on Prime to help.
Prime is not nearly as effective at reducing/binding the toxicity of nitrate as it is with ammonia and nitrate.

I think the "wrong reason" is the products intended use.
+1

How about getting a python to help you out? You could lay down while it does the water change for you.
This is a great idea if you don't already have one.

  • New Feature: Nitrate Reduction with Nitraban – Serves as a nutrient for denitrifying bacteria that consume the oxygen releasing nitrogen from the aquarium. On average the nitrate concentration will drop below 40mg/l.
My big problem with this product in general but this statement especially is that it provides no real information about how it achieves these goals. I agree with PB_Smith that you should be very skeptical of this product without more information.
 
A note on the nitrate lowering products... I would be highly skeptical of any of the chemical dosing ones. They tend to cause unstable swings in the water parameters for (often times) minimal benefits. The only nitrate reducing products that seem to work well with little to no side effects (in my experience) are Purigen and De-Nitrate/lava rocks. The latter options takes time to grow the necessary anaerobic bacteria but does reduce nitrate levels, while the first option works fairly quickly but only blocks the nitrate levels from rising any higher and doesn't reduce them from where they are.
 
I'd so love a python! Isn't in the budget right now unfortunately.

Looks like I have just a tiny touch of pneumonia and should be fine soon. I've also got $10 stashed for a family teenager who really wants to buy a concert ticket this weekend ... So I think I've got a worst case scenario solution.

Everyone in there looks good and I haven't been feeding. There are Otos but it's mostly hardy tetras, danios, and rasboras.


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You could do this then if a python is out of the budget.


Connect it to a hose and buy an adapter for your faucet. Bit of a PITA to put together when your sick, but it would work :)
 
It's also not my house and I don't have a hose ... And the faucet is one I can't connect stuff too

Looks like something I'd enjoy doing later!



Sent from my iPhone with three hands tied behind my back.
 
It's also not my house and I don't have a hose ... And the faucet is one I can't connect stuff too

Looks like something I'd enjoy doing later!



Sent from my iPhone with three hands tied behind my back.
well... Thats A Good Reason then! :)
 
I'm not saying it is for everyone. Definitely not that they should follow the instructions on the bottle and use it instead of water changes! Just that the nitrates in my tap water are quite high and it helps me, I have been using it for 4 or 5 months.
Before, I would test my water before a weekly WC and the nitrates would be about 40ppm, now they are 20, max. All other parameters are steady and all of my fish are fine.
If my tap water nitrate level wasn't so high then I would probably never use it, but it does help me. Other than this all I use is my water conditioner and a bit of plant fertiliser.
 
Disaster averted!

My doctor offered me a b vitamin injection to shrug off the fatigue, if I promised to not spend the rest of the day carrying my kid up and down the stairs and cleaning the house ... Never said anything about buckets of water down the stairs and cleaning the tank!

(I feel so good everyone in Portland might ought to lock the doors or I'll come clean yours too)


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Ok I have managed some 50% water changes but nitrates are still high. Orange with a little red (I've misplaced my chart). I think it's 20-40ppm.

Think I can keep doing Prime and get another 50% in on the weekend? I'm still a little limited in carrying all those buckets, and my child is sick again and quite sure if mom carries anything, it needs to be him ;)

A daily change of 4 gallons may be possible as well. Think that's about 15% ...



Sent from my iPhone with three hands tied behind my back.
 
Ok I have managed some 50% water changes but nitrates are still high. Orange with a little red (I've misplaced my chart). I think it's 20-40ppm.

Think I can keep doing Prime and get another 50% in on the weekend?
20-40ppm for a short time should be totally manageable. I would not even worry about the Prime. I would just do the 50% change this weekend.
 
Agreed. 20-40 is totally fine so long as you don't have any super nitrate sensitive fish (Rams, Discus, river loaches, some shrimps, etc).
 
Ok. I lost a mystery snail and I think all the ghost shrimp, but that may have been when they were much higher.

It's danios, tetras, rasboras, Otos, and some Pygmy loaches. A few of the Otos are wild caught.

I had a touch of ammonia after changing part of my filter media so I put prime in anyway. And 4 bunches of new cabomba, maybe they will help a little ;)

Thanks as always for separating out what's worth worrying about. I can now turn my attention to Betta Bob's broken filter ...

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