Is there a way to get scratches out of a glass tank?

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Shadowraven said:
Nice find Mr. Limpet. I missed that one.

The reoccurring theme that I found was to leave them alone unless they're severe and if it is, it's best not to use the tank.

The best solution I found was simple, put the scratched side on the back (unless it's a bow front) lol. I like the scratch remover you came up with, one DIY site said use regular toothpaste and I never thought of that :).
 
You do understand that acrylic plastic used to make tanks isn't the same as acrylic glue? Glues use caustic agents to "weld" plastics together which won't even adhere to glass ;).

GlsTkScratches


Many reefers have used acrylic and Weld On to build sumps, fuges, etc. If let to cure properly, it is perfectly safe for aquarium use.
 
meegosh said:
Many reefers have used acrylic and Weld On to build sumps, fuges, etc. If let to cure properly, it is perfectly safe for aquarium use.

You're correct as a seam sealer, not on an open face. Besides it's a moot point because it doesn't adhere to glass, unless you can find a link that proves otherwise. I sure couldn't.
 
The Weld On turns the acrylic into a liquid and then once the Weld On evaporates your acrylic is solid again... you can take a scrap piece of acrylic and "melt" some of it and have it drip into the crack, when it is dry it has turned back into acrylic. I know that I can buy acrylic already "melted" and in a bottle for use at my local plastics store, but I'm not sure the name of it. They prefer it for making things because you don't need both seams to be perfectly flush/flat.
 
You're correct as a seam sealer, not on an open face. Besides it's a moot point because it doesn't adhere to glass, unless you can find a link that proves otherwise. I sure couldn't.

It probably will stick, I don't know how well though. My experience with melted plastic on glass is that it doesn't always adhere strongly. I have no experience with this acrylic glue, so I can't say for sure how it would do. I've read now that it is safe, but for myself I'd feel better with the other. It would also be an easier way to deal with multiple scratches at once.

You're right about what you said in the post above this one. If the scratch is deep enough, don't use the tank. I'm not sure the acrylic addition would strengthen it enough to change that.
 
This got a ton of responses over night! The scratches are primairly on the outside. They are pretty shallow, but there are a lot, on all sides. I'll see if a picture will show them so you can get a better idea. The tooth paste sounds interesting, that might be worth a try.
 
Here are some pictures, first one is the whole tank, second is a close up of the scratches. I couldn't really get it to show up so I turned on the flash so it would reflect a little. They aren't really good pictures because they were taken in my garage with a cell phone.
 

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Tropical said:
Here are some pictures, first one is the whole tank, second is a close up of the scratches. I couldn't really get it to show up so I turned on the flash so it would reflect a little. They aren't really good pictures because they were taken in my garage with a cell phone.

Looks like someone a little carried away with cleaning and used a steel wool pad or something lol. Are the scratches on the front & back? I'd fill it with water and see if it even shows. If only on one side, just spin it.

Tooth paste is a good idea, the stuff we used for huge panels was a 3 part PITA system. Might want to try it on a discreet spot and see if it works.
 
:( Yup, front and back. I'm a little annoyed because the I assume they were trying to get rid of the hard water deposits that were on the tank when I first got it but had no luck. It took me 10 minutes with a paper towel to get rid of most of it. I'll fill it and see how it looks.

About the toothpaste, any specific kind? I believe someone above said non- gel, so just the white paste type?
 
Tropical said:
:( Yup, front and back. I'm a little annoyed because the I assume they were trying to get rid of the hard water deposits that were on the tank when I first got it but had no luck. It took me 10 minutes with a paper towel to get rid of most of it. I'll fill it and see how it looks.

About the toothpaste, any specific kind? I believe someone above said non- gel, so just the white paste type?

Regular gritty type, so it acts as mild sandpaper (really mild).

FYI: White vinegar will cut that build up in no time.
 
It probably will stick, I don't know how well though. My experience with melted plastic on glass is that it doesn't always adhere strongly. I have no experience with this acrylic glue, so I can't say for sure how it would do. I've read now that it is safe, but for myself I'd feel better with the other. It would also be an easier way to deal with multiple scratches at once.
It's not so much "melted" as dissolved. When the liquid acrylic "dries" it is like the plastic is being formed not "melted" so it bonds well.

I would not recommend it for this tank though... it's hard to make it good enough for the exterior and it's best on single deep scratches.
 
It's not so much "melted" as dissolved. When the liquid acrylic "dries" it is like the plastic is being formed not "melted" so it bonds well.

I would not recommend it for this tank though... it's hard to make it good enough for the exterior and it's best on single deep scratches.

Thanks for the info Greenmaster. You taught me something I didn't know, and I always appreciate that!

Just use a non-gel type and buy the cheap stuff. You're not trying to whiten the tank and prevent tooth decay, are you? ;)

I checked further and the toothpaste fix seems to work pretty well. It has the virtue of being cheap because you don't have to buy the good stuff. In fact, in my experience the cheap stuff is the type that really dries like concrete.

If you decide to try it, please report back to us here how it worked. I have a feeling that a lot of people here would like to know. I know I would.
 
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