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Old 02-10-2006, 09:22 PM   #1
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Making tap water safe

I recently found out I was adding my dechlorinator at the wrong time and now I'm paranoid I'm going to poison my fish. Figuring out how much conditioner to add to little buckets of fresh water I add is irritating. I make several trips because the water can get heavy.

I have a 29 gallon tank so I just added approximately 3 tsp. of conditioner to my tank before I added the fresh water. The conditioner calls for 1 tsp per 10 gallons (close enough). Am I doing this right. Adding the condition to the water right before adding the fresh water is correct, right???

Thanks.
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Old 02-10-2006, 09:39 PM   #2
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You are doing it just fine. Do not worry.
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Old 02-10-2006, 09:58 PM   #3
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rich gave the concise answer. Now it's time for the long winded version :P

This is an abbreviated version of the answer to a similar question answered quite a few years ago (when these "multi-chemical-removing-tap-water-conditioners" became popular) by Dr. Anthony Calflo. Any mistakes are likely mine, and not from Dr. Calflo

The "stuff" (tap water conditioner, for ease of typing I'll call it stuff from now on) has X number of free molecules available to bind with whatever chemical compound it claims to remove. For simplicity's sake lets say 1 tsp has 1000 of these molecules to bind chlorine.

These molecules will float around until they can find a chlorine molecule to attach themselves to. When they find one, they bind themselves to it, turning it from chlorine, which is posionous to fish, to another less harmful chemical compound. When 1000 chlorine molecules have been found, the tsp. has done all it can do to "remove" chlorine from the water. To take out any more, you need to add more stuff.

Now lets consider that tsp of stuff has 1000 molecules that seek out chlorine, 1000 that seek out chloramine, 1000 that seek out ammonia, and 1000 that seek out copper. It doesn't matter when you add the tsp of stuff, these molecules will bounce around your tank water until they find a suitable chemical compound to attach themselves to. In theory, with enough water circulation this could be instant. In a more practical example, as long as your water is circulating as it should be, the stuff will bind to the chemical compounds faster than your fish can run them through their gills. The stuff is always able to remove quite a bit more unwanted chemicals than the volume of water listed for dosage. This doesn't mean you can use less, it means it will remove the chemicals faster and unused binding compounds either break down and leave the water as a gas, or are inert and remain in the water column until they find a chemical molecule they can attach to.

Are we sufficiently bored yet?
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Old 02-10-2006, 10:16 PM   #4
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Well I flipped out because one started to scratch, so I added more.
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Old 02-10-2006, 10:20 PM   #5
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Extra will not hurt so dont worry about that either. Nice post Jerry.
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Old 02-10-2006, 10:32 PM   #6
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Do you recommend the stuff with the slime or without. I have both.
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Old 02-10-2006, 10:44 PM   #7
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I use prime. If you mean stress coat, I do not think it is needed. It will not hurt, but not needed. It is also expensive.
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Old 02-10-2006, 11:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rich311k
I use prime. ...
As do I. I have noticed that eventually all aquarists dedicated enough to participate on an internet fish fourm will eventually gravitate towards Seachem products. Are they better, or are we being brainwashed?

As a side note here, I've used and can say the following all will work more than adequate :
Doc Wellfish conditioner
Amquel and Amquel+
Jungle tap water conditioner
TopFin (PetSmart branded)

I'm sure most if not all brands work just fine. Seachem products aren't exactly cheap, so maybe we are being brainwashed :P
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Old 02-10-2006, 11:12 PM   #9
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I use prime and I've had no known issues with it.

Great post Hillbilly Jerry!
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Old 02-10-2006, 11:22 PM   #10
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They are all scratching a little, I don't get it.
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