My Ongoing Fancytail Tank Dilemma...Cycling, Seachem Stability, Etc.

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Okay People...

Thank you for all your replies; I do indeed think this suggested road of recovery for what's going on with my tank is just too daunting -- perhaps the hobby just isn't for me, and that could very well be, but that's something I will have to come to personal grips with if and when the tank crashes in terms of loss of fish. I understand completely that at that point, it would completely be a personal decision which no one could help me make. I just thought the information outlined above -- while very thoughtful and loaded with good intentions and advice -- is simply too much for me to grasp or feel like I would know where to begin; it's nothing against the members here. It's simply my level of ability in the hobby.

Well, that said, I went out today with the wife and we bought API Aquarium Salt and an Ich liquid medicine (even though I realize this was advised against). I added the Ich stuff first (the kind that turns your tank blue) according to treatment directions, and I need to continue with this for three days in the midst of doing the Stability. I then read the instructions for the salt, and according to the directive for the goldfish treatment, I needed to add 30 teaspoons -- and while that seemed like a lot, I did the 30 teaspoons...

I am going to follow the instructions for the remainder of the treatments, but I fear I may have awoken a sleeping giant, as the Japanese would say in reference to America's response to Pearl Harbor, in terms of screwing this tank up even more with chemicals and now the blue stain from the Ich medicine. I'm at my wits end with this setup at this point, as it is...

I am also growing impatient with these Aqueon filters, as I don't really think they'e filtering anything; the water really hasn't been crystal-clear since I started the tank a month or so ago, and it refuses to get clear. I am suspecting these are real pieces of junk as far as HOB filters go...

I'll post this over in the hardware/equipment section as well, but can anyone recommend a really, really good power filter? Which one is highly regarded? I know many suggest the AquaClear, but what about the Marineland ones? Are these any good? Or the Tetra Whispers (I've used these years ago when I kept a tropical tank)?

Again, let me say thank you to everyone that has attempted to assist with my problem in this thread -- your suggestions did not go on blind eyes; I am just questioning if I have what it takes, personally, to keep up with this hobby personally. I hope, at this point, that I can save the fish using the route I went down with the Ich treatment and salt...:(
 
It might seem daunting now, but it will get better. Once you get the tank cycled, things will get easier. It is always bumpy during the start, so hang in there!

Generally, there is no need to treat any illness with more than one treatment. Although there is no real harm in adding salt to the ich meds ... it is best not to mix treatment modes, as it can get complicated when things don't work.

Finally, I would advice patience .... It takes at least several weeks to cycle a tank, longer if your tank temp is lower. Until the tank is cycled, there is no point in worrying about crystal clear water. Ammonia & nitrite levels are far more important. Now is not the time to change filters or do any major changes. <Except for water changes!>
 
It might seem daunting now, but it will get better. Once you get the tank cycled, things will get easier. It is always bumpy during the start, so hang in there!

Thanks for the encouragement, J...

It just feels like something's wrong already, as a good month or so has passed and I really never was rewarded with clear water -- maybe one day or so of it...

Generally, there is no need to treat any illness with more than one treatment. Although there is no real harm in adding salt to the ich meds ... it is best not to mix treatment modes, as it can get complicated when things don't work.

Good to know; I think I misplaced or misused the salt anyway, as I put the 30 teaspoons in and they just collagulated on the bottom as a lump on one side of the tank. I don't even see the crystals anymore, so it's possible the fish ate them. I'm still using the Ich chemical though, and using the Stability, even though I read the Ick medicine can cancel the effects of the Stability out...:(

Finally, I would advice patience .... It takes at least several weeks to cycle a tank, longer if your tank temp is lower. Until the tank is cycled, there is no point in worrying about crystal clear water. Ammonia & nitrite levels are far more important. Now is not the time to change filters or do any major changes. <Except for water changes!>

I understand, and thank you again -- I really do believe it's desperately time for a water change as the water quality seems heavily polluted. What's the best way to go about this, and at this point, how much water should I be changing? Given the circumstances -- that is, I am treating for Ich and still doing Stability -- how much water should I change, and what should the procedure be? Do I just replace the removed water with fresh tap water and treat the tap water with conditioner?
 
Stability is a live bacteria (spore) product, so it can be killed by various meds. <Your filter bacteria is also susceptible as well.> That is one reason to not use meds if possible. However, once you started, you should continue & finish a course of treatment.

As for water change, it gets complicated with addition of meds. It depends on exactly which med you are using. If the med is stable, you will add in the amount of meds that you removed. E.g. If you do a 50% pwc, you would replace with treated (with dechlorinator/conditioner) water, and 50% of your original medication dose. This is the same principle as replacing the salt outlined earlier. <Incidentally, I would suggest doing 50% changes, it makes for much easier calculations!>

Now, if the med is labile (and many ich med will break down in light), the amount of med you add back in depends on when you dose your tank. Generally, the manufacturer will tell you what to do. Eg. one of the ich med instructs you to do a 50% pwc after 48 hr and add in 100% of the original dose. The instruction is going to vary with the med, so you are best to consult the package insert for details.

As for Stability, you can add it with pwc as well. From what I understand, the bacteria added is in the water column, so in theory, you want to replace any you removed with pwc. <Do consult the package insert to be sure.> Since you ahve the Stability already, may as well use it per instruction. You might just get lucky & have it work. <I think a lot of the varying results with Stability/Cycle, etc has to do with the condition of the bacteria. If you get a fresh bottle, it works. But a bottle that had sat for a while, or had been exposed to heat/cold, etc. may not work at all....>

One final point for future reference ... When adding salt, it is best to pre-dissolve the salt in a bit of tank water before adding it to the tank ... avoids problems with burns to fish with super high salt concentration around the solid crystals ...
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom