My tank is a mess

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Cherie

Aquarium Advice Newbie
Joined
Jul 16, 2007
Messages
6
I could use some help. Let's just say that I was a little uniformed when setting up my tank. I bought the tank, added water and conditioner as instructed. The next day, I put in a couple fish like the pet store guy said that I could. How was he supposed to know that I didn't know anything about fish? Anyway, the water turned cloudy and looked "off" just two days later. I went to the pet sotre again, they suggested that I test the water (and said I should have tested before putting fish in...I wish I had know that!). Anyway, I tested. Very hard water, high Alkalinity, High PH, and High ammonia. Went back to a different store. They suggested that I do a 40% water exchange with conditioned distilled water and treat the PH and ammonia. So I did according to the directions. Well...here I am same boat. The PH and ammonia has never gone down! Went back today, they told me that I was fighting a loosing battle with a new tank and that I should just let things go. Fish may survive or not, but new water is extremely difficult to balance. So now I am confused. I have clearly made mistakes along the way but want to fix this for my fish. I would like them to safely making it through the tank cycling. Can someone please direct me what to do now????
 
first off, welcome to AA.

Second, invest in a good liquid test kit, I use the API master test kit. Also, as many of us learned, this is not going to be the most fun. You are in for near daily pwc's of 50% or greater, as well as daily water testing. If you are not already doing so, cut feeding back to every other day, the fish wont starve. Monitor the Amonia, nitrites, and nitrates.

Third, I started out with a PH modifier, and through this board was advised against them. It is better for the fish to have a stable ph rather than an ideal one, and I have to agree. Fish loss is very possible, but if you keep up with the water changes, and keep the ammonia below .5 at the very highest (0 is the best), fish loss will be minimal if not 0.

Welcome to AA, and hope you enjoy your stay here.

Bear
 
Thank you, Bear! It is good to be here.

You mentioned doing daily water changes and continuing to check the levels. I will have to pick up a liquid test kit. What I have now is a dip stick. My ammonia levels are showing probably a little about .5 and the PH is about 8.8. I know that both of these are high. Now when I did the last partial water change yesterday, I tested the water before I added it. That was beautiful! When when added to the current water, it did not change my original values. Should I at least be treating the ammonia as well the water change since it is quite high?

Again, thanks so much for your help!
 
I wouldnt try to treat the ammonia, as iit can give false readings. The best course of action in this case is massive water changes, I know this because I was in the same boat with my 29g not too long ago, but thats another story. You will want to wait atleast 2-3 hours before testing water after a water change, to allow for everything to stabilize a bit. I test right before the water change, and then the next morning, as our changes are done at nite. you will want to watch your ammonia, it will rise, then fall to 0, at which point, nitrites will begin to rise. Once the nitrites fall, you should see an increase in nitrates, once you see a steady level of nitrates things are good. Deffinately refrain from anymore fish, if one does die, dont replace it until after the cycle is complete.

We are all here to help, and I am giving back the knowledge I gained going through the same experience, and the folks on here helped me out. Feel free to ask any question you have, and someone will answer it, even if it is not myself. Good bunch of folks on here. One piece of advice you will hear quite often is "dont trust the fish store people"...LOL There are some that in my opinion know what they are talking about, and others that just pretend to know...once you find a good fish store, you will know, as they will be straight with you...not trying to sell you what you want...
 
Papa has given excellent advice.

Regarding the pH, don't worry about the number. Stop using the pH altering chemicals. With such a high level of hardness and pH, it's going to be near impossible to get that level down unless you start using RO/DI water. Your fish will be fine with a higher pH. My angels are spawning in similar conditions. Welcome to the "Liquid Rock Club". :)

Get that API test kit (don't be intimidated by it, it's easy to use) and see what your real readings are. Keep up with the water changes and most of all, be patient. The initial cycling of the tank is the hardest part. Once it stabilizes (4 to 6 weeks) it's smooth sailing. If you can get your hands on Bio Spira or used filter media from a trusted friend (I would shy away from lfs media as it's usually questionable) it will help the cycle. If you can't, be prepared for water changes.

What size is the tank?
 
Fishyfanatic said:
Papa has given excellent advice.

Regarding the pH, don't worry about the number. Stop using the pH altering chemicals. With such a high level of hardness and pH, it's going to be near impossible to get that level down unless you start using RO/DI water. Your fish will be fine with a higher pH. My angels are spawning in similar conditions. Welcome to the "Liquid Rock Club". :)

Get that API test kit (don't be intimidated by it, it's easy to use) and see what your real readings are. Keep up with the water changes and most of all, be patient. The initial cycling of the tank is the hardest part. Once it stabilizes (4 to 6 weeks) it's smooth sailing. If you can get your hands on Bio Spira or used filter media from a trusted friend (I would shy away from lfs media as it's usually questionable) it will help the cycle. If you can't, be prepared for water changes.

What size is the tank?

I knew I would forget to mention something. Bio Spira is a great product, well worth the cost. I use it often when adding new fish, to make sure that we dont overload the tank by the sudden population change. Fishyfinatic is a great source of knowledge, and has helped me on several occassions.
 
Welcome to the "Liquid Rock Club".

I am a proud member of that club as well. Definitely don't try to alter the pH. It will only cause you heartache.

I just wanted to add that you should be sure to get a test for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. I think that some of the kits leave out the nitrate, which is important to have.
 
verucaproduce said:
Welcome to the "Liquid Rock Club".

I am a proud member of that club as well. Definitely don't try to alter the pH. It will only cause you heartache.

I just wanted to add that you should be sure to get a test for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. I think that some of the kits leave out the nitrate, which is important to have.

I know the API master test kit come with all three, plus PH and high range PH. There's others that I have seen as well that include the Hardness test as well...
 
One of the smaller kits used to come with ammonia, nitrite and ph I think. That is the one I was cautioning against.
 
Everybody gas given great advice Cherie. Since you have fish already I would suggest trying to find a lfs that carries Bio-Spira as was suggested. I have never used it but know people who have. I was skeptical but it seemed to work really well for them. It's a bag of bacteria if you will, and it helps to establish beneficial bacteria in your tank which you need to deal with the ammonia that your fish make.

One other suggestion is to read the article on The Nitrogen Cycle

It really helps to understand what is going on in your tank as you try to keep your fish alive.

Welcome and good luck!
 
I agree the cost of Biospira well makes up for the headache of trying to deal with a cycling tank!!! Do NOT use cycle in the bottle on the shelf! Biospira should be in a fridge and worth every penny.

Ive used it twice and it worked like a charm!! The last time was after a huge sickness outbreak in my tank, lost a lot of fish my ammonia spiked in the aftermath and tossed me into a mini cycle and I tossed in Biospira and two days later took my water in to be tested to make sure it was 0 like I tested and it was!
 
verucaproduce said:
One of the smaller kits used to come with ammonia, nitrite and ph I think. That is the one I was cautioning against.

I did not know that, learn something new everyday...
 
AP used to make a kit without the Nitrate. The new API kits have Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, High Range pH, and pH tests.
 
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